Photoaging and photocarcinogenesis are primarily due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which alters DNA, cellular antioxidant balance, signal transduction pathways, immunology, and the extracellular matrix (ECM). The DNA alterations include UV radiation induced thymine-thymine dimers and loss of tumor suppressor gene p53. UV radiation reduces cellular antioxidant status by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the resultant oxidative stress alters signal transduction pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK), the nuclear factor-kappa beta (NF-κB)/p65, the janus kinase (JAK), signal transduction and activation of transcription (STAT) and the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2). UV radiation induces pro-inflammatory genes and causes immunosuppression by depleting the number and activity of the epidermal Langerhans cells. Further, UV radiation remodels the ECM by increasing matrixmetalloproteinases (MMP) and reducing structural collagen and elastin. The photoprotective strategies to prevent/treat photoaging and photocarcinogenesis include oral or topical agents that act as sunscreens or counteract the effects of UV radiation on DNA, cellular antioxidant balance, signal transduction pathways, immunology and the ECM. Many of these agents are phytochemical derivatives and include polyphenols and non-polyphenols. The flavonoids are polyphenols and include catechins, isoflavones, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins, whereas the non-flavonoids comprise mono phenolic acids and stilbenes. The natural sources of polyphenols include tea, cocoa, grape/wine, soy, pomegranate, and Polypodium leucotomos. The non-phenolic phytochemicals include carotenoids, caffeine and sulphoraphance (SFN). In addition, there are other phytochemical derivatives or whole extracts such as baicalin, flavangenol, raspberry extract, and Photomorphe umbellata with photoprotective activity against UVB radiation, and thereby carcinogenesis.

Copper is essential to wound healing as well as a widespread environmental pollutant, with skin aging potential. Wound healing and skin aging are facilitated by matrixmetalloproteinases (MMP), which remodel the extracellular matrix, and interleukin-8 (IL-8), linked with copper. This research investigated the mechanism to copper's role in wound healing or skin aging by regulation of MMP-1 and IL-8 genes. It examined the dose-responsive effects of copper on MMP-1, -2, and -9 activities; MMP-1 and IL-8 gene regulation at protein, mRNA, and promoter levels; tissue inhibitor of matrixmetalloproteinases-1 (TIMP-1) expression; and cell proliferation. Copper stimulated cell proliferation and the expression of MMP-1 and IL-8 genes at the protein, mRNA, and promoter levels, indicating transcriptional regulation, without significantly altering TIMP-1. The research suggests that copper facilitates wound healing as well as skin aging via the induction of MMP-1 expression, with limiting MMP effect at the higher concentrations through enhanced IL-8 expression, which favors extracellular matrix deposition.

Many phytochemicals are endowed with photoprotective properties, i.e., the capability to prevent the harmful effects of excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. These effects include photoaging and skin cancer, and immunosuppression. Photoprotection is endowed through two major modes of action: UV absorption or reflection/scattering; and tissue repair post-exposure. We and others have uncovered the photoprotective properties of an extract of the fern Polypodium leucotomos (commercial name Fernblock). Fernblock is an all-natural antioxidant extract, administered both topically (on the skin) or orally. It inhibits generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production induced by UV including superoxide anion. It also prevents damage to the DNA, inhibits UV-induced AP1 and NF-κB, and protects endogenous skin natural antioxidant systems, i.e., CAT, GSH, and GSSR. Its photoprotective effects at a cellular level include a marked decrease of UV-mediated cellular apoptosis and necrosis and a profound inhibition of extracellular matrix remodeling. These molecular and cellular effects translate into long-term inhibition of photoaging and carcinogenesis that, together with its lack of toxicity, postulate its use as a novel-generation photoprotective nutriceutical of phytochemical origin.

Skin aging is associated with the loss of the structural collagens and the elastin fiber components that form the extracellular matrix (ECM). It is associated with reduced transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β), angiogenesis and increased oxidative stress. Copper has been incorporated into cosmetics for anti-skin aging. This research investigated the mechanism for the anti-skin aging effect copper ions, from cuprous oxide powders. Dermal fibroblasts were exposed to copper and examined for expression (protein and/or promoter levels) of types I, III, V collagen, heat shock protein-47 (HSP-47), elastin, fibrillin-1, and fibrillin-2, TGF-β1, vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and in addition for membrane damage and lipid peroxidation. The direct antioxidant activity of copper was also determined. The research indicates that copper’s anti-skin aging and skin regeneration potential is through its stimulation of ECM proteins, TGF-β1, VEGF, and inhibition of oxidative stress effects at physiological concentrations; and supports its use in cosmetics.