Bast fibres have been commonly used as a textile material in Northern Europe since Neolithic times. However, the process of identifying the different species has been problematic, and many important questions related to their cultural history are still unanswered. For example, a modified Herzog test and the presence of calcium oxalate crystals have both been used in identification. In order to generate more reliable results, further research and advancement in multi-methodological methods is required. This paper introduces a combination of methods which can be used to identify and distinguish flax (Linum usitatissimum), hemp (Cannabis sativa), and stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). The research material consisted of reference fibres and 25 fibre samples obtained from 12 textiles assumed to be made of nettle. The textiles were from the Finno-Ugric and Historical Collections of The National Museum of Finland. The fibre samples were studied by observing the surface characteristics and cross sections with transmitted light microscopy, and by using a modified Herzog test with polarized light, in order to identify the distinguishable features in their morphological structures. The study showed that five out of 25 samples were cotton, 16 nettle, one flax, and one hemp. Findings from two samples were inconsistent. The results show that it is possible to distinguish common north European bast fibres from each other by using a combination of microscopic methods. Furthermore, by utilizing these combined methods, new and more reliable information could be obtained from historical ethnographic textiles, which creates new vistas for the interpretation of their cultural history.

Pure natural anthraquinones, emodin and dermocybin, isolated from the fungus Dermocybe sanguinea, are for the first time used as disperse dyes for polyester and polyamide fabrics using a high-temperature dyeing method, accompanied with a reference dyeing with CI Disperse Red 60. The color of each dyed material is investigated in terms of the CIELAB L^*, a^*, and b^* values, and color fastness to light, washing, and rubbing are tested according to the ISO standards. Emodin dyes polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics show excellent color-fastness results. Emodin and dermocybin successfully dye polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but the fastness results are only moderate. This study shows that pure natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues and color-fastness properties equivalent to those of synthetic disperse dyes, and thus providing useful alternatives to the synthetics.

Synthetic dyes and chemicals create an enormous impact on environmental pollution both in textile manufacturing and after the product's lifetime. Biobased plant-derived colorants and mordants have great potential for the development of more sustainable textile dyeing processes. Colorants isolated from biomass residues are renewable, biodegradable, and usually less harmful than their synthetic counterparts. Interestingly, they may also bring additional functions to the materials. However, the extraction and purification of the biocolorants from biomass as well as their dyeing efficiency and color fastness properties require a more thorough examination. Here, we extracted red onion (Allium cepa) skins to obtain polyphenolic flavonoids and anthocyanins as biocolorants, characterized the chemical composition of the mixture, and used a quartz crystal microbalance and thin films of cellulose nanofibrils to study the adsorption kinetics of dyes onto cellulose substrates in situ. The effect of different mordants on the adsorption behavior was also investigated. Comparison of these results with conventional dyeing experiments of textiles enabled us to determine the interaction mechanism of the dyes with substrates and mordants. Chitosan showed high potential as a biobased mordant based both on its ability to facilitate fast adsorption of polyphenols to cellulose and its ability to retain the purple color of the red onion dye (ROD) in comparison to the metal mordants FeSO₄ and alum. The ROD also showed excellent UV-shielding efficiency at low concentrations, suggesting that biocolorants, due to their more complex composition compared to synthetic ones, can have multiple actions in addition to providing aesthetics.

A new two-dimensional TLC technique was developed to separate substituted anthraquinones on silica plates using n-pentanol-pyridine-methanol (6:4:3, v/v/v) and toluene-ethyl acetate-ethanol-formic acid (10:8:1:2, v/v/v/v) as eluents. The good separation power of the new technique was demonstrated by applying it to the analysis of complex anthraquinone mixtures isolated from the Scandinavian Derm ocybe sanguinea. Emodin, physcion, endocrocin, dermolutein, dermorubin, 5-chlorodermorubin, emodin-1-β-D-glucopyranoside, dermocybin-1-β-D-glucopyranoside and dermocybin, and five new, earlier in D. sanguinea unidentified compounds, 7-chloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroendocrocin, 4-hydroxyaustrocorticone and austrocorticone, were separated and identified on the basis of R_f values, UV/Vis spectra and mass spectra.

Biocolourants have been investigated as alternatives to synthetic dyes. However, natural origin per se is not a label of harmlessness and research is needed to obtain safe dyes. We studied the cytotoxicity of the extracts from fungal (Cortinarius semisanguineus, Tapinella atrotomentosa) and plant (Tanacetum vulgare, Salix phylicifolia) sources and the woollen fabrics dyed with the extracts. Cytotoxicity in vitro using hepa-1 mouse hepatoma cells for 24 h and 72 h exposure was observed as the highest tolerated dose. All biocolourants produced intensive colour on fabrics with fastness properties from moderate to good. The Salix and Cortinarius samples did not show any cytotoxic effects, whereas the Tanacetum and Tapinella samples had slightly higher test values but were not interpreted as being significantly toxic. Higher than zero values of the undyed fabrics showed the importance of examining their toxicity as well. It was found that the cytotoxicity of the samples dyed with the biocolourants did not differ significantly from the undyed wool fabric. The concentrations of dyes used in the assays were very low, imitating the dose of the user. In addition to colouring properties, natural dyes may have pharmaceutical and antibacterial properties which would enhance the interest in using them in products for added value.