The outer epidermal skin is a primary barrier that protects the body from extrinsic factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, chemicals and pollutants. The complete epithelialization of a wound by keratinocytes is essential for restoring the barrier function of the skin. However, age-related alterations predispose the elderly to impaired wound healing. Therefore, wound-healing efficacy could be also considered as a potent function of an anti-aging reagent. Here, we examine the epidermal wound-healing efficacy of the fourth-generation retinoid, seletinoid G, using HaCaT keratinocytes and skin tissues. We found that seletinoid G promoted the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes in scratch assays and time-lapse imaging. It also increased the gene expression levels of several keratinocyte proliferation-regulating factors. In human skin equivalents, seletinoid G accelerated epidermal wound closure, as assessed using optical coherence tomography (OCT) imaging. Moreover, second harmonic generation (SHG) imaging revealed that seletinoid G recovered the reduced dermal collagen deposition seen in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated human skin equivalents. Taken together, these results indicate that seletinoid G protects the skin barrier by accelerating wound healing in the epidermis and by repairing collagen deficiency in the dermis. Thus, seletinoid G could be a potent anti-aging agent for protecting the skin barrier.

Sugars are ubiquitous in organisms and well-known cosmetic ingredients for moisturizing skin with minimal side-effects. Glucose, a simple sugar used as an energy source by living cells, is often used in skin care products. Several reports have demonstrated that sugar and sugar-related compounds have anti-melanogenic effects on melanocytes. However, the underlying molecular mechanism by which glucose inhibits melanin synthesis is unknown, even though glucose is used as a whitening as well as moisturizing ingredient in cosmetics. Herein, we found that glucose significantly reduced the melanin content of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16 cells and darkly pigmented normal human melanocytes with no signs of cytotoxicity. Furthermore, topical treatment of glucose clearly demonstrated its whitening efficacy through photography, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining, and multi-photon microscopy in a pigmented 3D human skin model, MelanoDerm. However, glucose did not alter the gene expression or protein levels of major melanogenic proteins in melanocytes. While glucose potently decreased intracellular tyrosinase activity in melanocytes, it did not reduce mushroom tyrosinase activity in a cell-free experimental system. However, glucose was metabolized into lactic acid, which can powerfully suppress tyrosinase activity. Thus, we concluded that glucose indirectly inhibits tyrosinase activity through conversion into lactic acid, explaining its anti-melanogenic effects in melanocytes.

The human skin is the outermost physical barrier and has its own circadian machinery that works either cooperatively with the central clock, or autonomously. Circadian rhythms have been observed in many functions related to epidermal homeostasis including hydration and inflammation, and this functional oscillation is disturbed by ultraviolet radiation (UVR), which is a strong environmental cue. Among the genes estimated to show circadian expression in the skin, metalloproteinase inhibitor 3 (TIMP3), has a rhythmic expression in synchronized human keratinocytes similar to that of the core clock gene PER1 and an epidermal circadian regulatory gene, aquaporin 3 (AQP3) but was antiphase to the core clock gene BMAL1. Tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), the regulatory target of TIMP3 via a disintegrin and metalloproteinase domain 17 (ADAM17), was inversely regulated when TIMP3 expression was downregulated by ultraviolet B (UVB) treatment. When synthetic TIMP3 peptides were applied to the cells, the secretion of TNF-α did not increase following the UVB treatment. Similar to TIMP3 peptides, Camellia sinensis leaf-derived extracts showed a distinguishing efficacy in recovering TIMP3 expression, downregulated by UVB treatment. Together, our results suggest that TIMP3 reversely mediates UVR-induced inflammation by being highly expressed during the daytime; therefore, recovering the circadian expression of TIMP3 using synthetic TIMP3 peptides or bioactive natural ingredients could at least in part inhibit the UVR-induced cellular phenomena.

Background/Aims: Dehydroabietic acid (DAA) is a natural phytochemical found in red pine trees and herbal plants. While DAA and its derivatives are known for improving diabetes and hyperlipidemia, the antiaging effect and its underlying mechanisms of DAA on skin have not been fully examined. Here, we assessed the antiaging effects of DAA on human dermal fibroblasts and skin equivalents. Methods: We investigated the effect of DAA on the secretion of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated neonatal normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFn). Using nonlinear optical imaging techniques, we visualized quantitative and qualitative changes of collagen fibers by DAA treatment in human skin equivalent models. Results: DAA induces increases in type I procollagen secretion when treated on UVB-irradiated NHDFn. DAA also downregulates secretion of MMP-1 through the inhibition of the JNK signaling pathway. In human skin equivalent models, we successfully visualized the spatial distribution of collagen fibers in the dermis and found that quantity, diameter, and arrangement of collagen fibers in the dermis were significantly improved by DAA treatment. Conclusion: Our results suggest that DAA could be a useful agent for improving skin photoaging through the protection and regeneration of collagen fibers in skin.

Many bioactive materials have been isolated from marine microorganisms, including alkaloids, peptides, lipids, mycosporine-like amino acids, glycosides, and isoprenoids. Some of these compounds have great potential in the cosmetic industry due to their photo-protective, anti-aging, and anti-oxidant activities. In this study, sarmentosamide (1) was isolated from marine-derived Streptomyces sp. APmarine042, after which its capacity to decrease skin aging was examined in-vitro. Sarmentosamide (1) was found to significantly reduce UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) by inhibiting the extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and the c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) phosphorylation, which are regulatory pathways upstream of MMP-1 transcription. Additionally, we confirmed that sarmentosamide (1) decreased tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), induced MMP-1 secretion in NHDFs, and exhibited free-radical scavenging activity, as demonstrated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. Therefore, our study suggests that sarmentosamide (1) could be a promising anti-aging agent that acts via the downregulation of MMP-1 expression.

Precise measurement of particulate matter (PM) on skin is important for managing and preventing PM-related skin diseases. This study aims to directly visualize the deposition and penetration of PM into human skin using a multimodal nonlinear optical (MNLO) imaging system. We successfully obtained PM particle signals by merging two different sources, C–C vibrational frequency and autofluorescence, while simultaneously visualizing the anatomical features of the skin via keratin, collagen, and elastin. As a result, we found morphologically dependent PM deposition, as well as increased deposition following disruption of the skin barrier via tape-stripping. Furthermore, PM penetrated more and deeper into the skin with an increase in the number of tape-strippings, causing a significant increase in the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Our results suggest that MNLO imaging could be a useful technique for visualizing and quantifying the spatial distribution of PM in ex vivo human skin tissues.