Oxidative stress is one of the major causes of skin aging. In this study, the shape memory gels containing phytosomes were developed as a delivery system for Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia fresh (VFL) and dry (VDL) leaf extracts. The extracts were loaded in the phytosomes by a solvent displacement method. The physical and chemical characteristics and stability of phytosomes were evaluated by dynamic light scattering and phytochemistry, respectively. The in vitro antioxidant activity and intracellular reactive oxygen species reduction of phytosomes and/or extracts were investigated by the DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays, FRAP assay, and DCFH-DA fluorescent probe. The cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of VDL and VFL phytosomes were studied by an MTT and a nitric oxide assay, respectively. Here, we first reported the total phenolic content in the dry leaf extract of N. tabacum var. Virginia was significantly greater than that of the fresh leaf extract. The HPLC analysis results revealed that VDL and VFL extracts contained 4.94 ± 0.04 and 3.13 ± 0.01 µg/mL of chlorogenic acid and 0.89 ± 0.00 and 0.24 ± 0.00 µg/mL of rutin, respectively. The phytosomes of the VDL and VFL extracts displayed stable size, polydispersity index, zeta potential values, and good chemical stability. VDL and VDL phytosomes showed higher phenolic and flavonoid contents which showed stronger DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging effects and reduced the intracellular ROS. The results suggested that the phenolic compounds are the main factor in their antioxidant activity. Both VDL and VFL phytosomes inhibited nitric oxide production induced by LPS, suggesting the anti-inflammatory activity of the phytosomes. The shape memory gel containing VDL and VFL phytosomes had good physical stability in terms of pH and viscosity. The VDL and VFL phytosomes dispersed in the shape memory gels can be considered as a promising therapeutic delivery system for protecting the skin from oxidation and reactive oxygen species.

This study aimed to investigate the potential usage of Thunbergia laurifolia Lindl. leaf extracts in the cosmetic industry. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and hyaluronidase inhibition of T. laurifolia leaf extracts, prepared using reflux extraction with deionized water (RE) and 80% v/v ethanol using Soxhlet’s apparatus (SE), were determined. Rosmarinic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids contents were determined using high-performance liquid chromatography, Folin–Ciocalteu, and aluminum chloride colorimetric assays, respectively. Antioxidant activities were determined by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and linoleic acid-thiocyanate assays. MMP-1 inhibition was investigated using enzymatic and fluorescent reactions, whereas MMP-2, MMP-9, and hyaluronidase inhibition were investigated using gel electrophoresis. Cytotoxicity on human fibroblast cell line was also investigated. The results demonstrated that SE contained significantly higher content of rosmarinic acid (5.62% ± 0.01%) and flavonoids (417 ± 25 mg of quercetin/g of extract) but RE contained a significantly higher phenolics content (181 ± 1 mg of gallic acid/g of extract; p < 0.001). SE possessed higher lipid peroxidation inhibition but less DPPH^• scavenging activity than RE. Both extracts possessed comparable hyaluronidase inhibition. SE was as potent an MMP-1 inhibitor as gallic acid (half maximal inhibitory concentration values were 12.0 ± 0.3 and 8.9 ± 0.4 mg/cm³, respectively). SE showed significantly higher MMP-2 and MMP-9 inhibition than RE (p < 0.05). Therefore, SE is a promising natural anti-ageing ingredient rich in rosmarinic acid and flavonoids with antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and potent MMPs inhibitory effects that could be applied in the cosmetic industry.

The investigation into promising botanical materials for natural cosmetics is expanding due to environmental and health awareness. Here, we aimed to evaluate the phytochemical substances and the potential skin-related pharmacological activities of four Mucuna seeds, namely M. gigantea (Willd.) DC. (MGG), M. interrupta Gagnep. (MIT), M. monosperma Wight (MMM), and M. pruriens (L.) DC. (MPR), belonging to the Fabaceae family. In methodology, the Mucuna seeds were authenticated using morphological and molecular approaches. L-DOPA, phenolics, and flavonoid content, incorporated with HPLC and GC–MS fingerprinting analyses, were determined. Then, skin-related antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antiaging activities were determined. The results revealed that MPR showed the highest L-DOPA content (75.94 mg/100 mg extract), whereas MGG exhibited the highest phenolic and flavonoid content (56.73 ± 0.62 mg gallic/g extract and 1030.11 ± 3.97 mg quercetin/g extract, respectively). Only MMM and MPR could inhibit all of S. aureus, S. epidermidis, and C. albicans, but no sample could inhibit C. acnes. Furthermore, all samples demonstrated antioxidant activity. Interestingly, all Mucuna samples exhibited strong collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities. We conclude that the ethanolic extracts of four Mucuna seeds are probably advantageous in the development of skincare cosmeceutical products.

Coffea arabica (Arabica) and Coffea canephora (Robusta) are the economic plants in Thailand that are widely cultivated in Northern and Southern Thailand. This study aims to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase activities, toxicity, stability and identify chemical components of the coffee bean extracts. The best extract that showed good biological activities will be further used to develop cosmeceutical products. Green and roasted coffee beans from two species were extracted with hexane following ethanol by maceration. Their antioxidant activities were detected by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl hydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2’-Azino-bis(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. In addition, anti-tyrosinase activity was also evaluated. The results revealed that the ethanolic coffee bean extracts showed a higher level of antioxidant activity than in the hexane extracts. All extracts also possessed a considerable anti-tyrosinase activity, but less potent than kojic acid and arbutin. Chemical compounds of these extracts were determined using caffeine and chlorogenic acid as standards of reference by the thin layer chromatography and the high performance liquid chromatography. The green coffee bean extracts consisted of caffeine and chlorogenic acid while the roasted coffee bean extracts presented only caffeine due to a few chlorogenic acid content after the roasting process. The ethanolic coffee bean extracts that showed good activities were selected to be evaluated on toxicity and stability. The selected extracts were kept at various storage conditions to evaluate their stability using DPPH assay and anti-tyrosinase activity assay. The result showed that the extracts were not toxic to cells. Therefore, the extracts were safe to be components in skin care products. After the stability test, the extracts indicated a good stability and activities. These results led to the conclusions that the coffee bean extracts possess a good biological activities and are assumed to be promising natural active ingredients with a good stability profile for further development of cosmeceutical or anti-aging products. Key words: Coffea arabica, Coffea canephora, green coffee bean, roasted coffee bean, antioxidant activity, anti-tyrosinase activity.

The targeted delivery of a hydrophilic Tripeptide-3 to the skin using microemulsions or nanoemulsions for facial oil reduction was the focus of this study. The impact factors affecting oil/water transparent dispersion formation, such as the surfactant system, HLB value, and co-solvent, were identified through the water titration method and pseudoternary phase diagram plots. The interfacial tension between caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT oil) and water was significantly reduced by the surfactant/co-surfactant combination (S_mix) of Cremophore^® RH40 and a double-tails co-surfactant, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, at an HLB of 13 together with a water-to-co-solvent (PG) ratio of 1:1. A two-level full factorial design of experiment (FFD-DoE) emphasized the independent variables of the HLB value, co-solvent, and CCT oil contents affecting the optimal compositions for micro- or nanoemulsion formation. The low-energy spontaneous emulsification of the optimized combination at a low S_mix content (10%) yielded the translucent oil-in-water Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions with an internal droplet size of 25.7 ± 1.20 nm, a narrow polydispersity index of 0.237 ± 0.129, and 70.6 ± 0.58% transmittance. The in vitro skin permeation study revealed a significantly higher skin penetration and retention of the Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions compared to the high surfactant microemulsions and coarse emulsions. Skin irritation and oil control efficacy were evaluated in healthy volunteers before and after product application for 28 days. The obtained nanoemulsions not only decreased sebum production but also enhanced skin moisture levels. In conclusion, the meticulously designed nanoemulsions, incorporating suitable excipients, show a promising delivery system for hydrophilic peptides to control sebum overproduction in oily facial skin.