Hair loss by excessive stress from work and lifestyle changes has become a growing concern, particularly among young individuals. However, most drugs for alopecia impose a plethora of side effects. We have found the powerful impact of Malva verticillata seed extracts on alleviating hair loss. This study further isolated effective chemicals in M. verticillata seed extracts by liquid silica gel column chromatography. Under the screening for the growth rate (%) of human follicles dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs), we identified linoleic acid (LA) and oleic acid in n-hexane of M. verticillate (MH)2 fraction. LA treatment activated Wnt/β-catenin signaling and induced HFDPCs growth by increasing the expression of cell cycle proteins such as cyclin D1 and cyclin-dependent kinase 2. LA treatment also increased several growth factors, such as vascular endothelial growth factor, insulin-like growth factor-1, hepatocyte growth factor, and keratinocyte growth factor, in a dose-dependent manner. Besides, LA significantly inhibited Dickkopf-related protein expression (DKK-1), a primary alopecia signaling by dihydrotestosterone. Our findings suggest that LA treatment may alleviate a testosterone-induced signaling molecule and induces HFDPCs growth by activating Wnt/β-catenin signaling.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme critical for melanin synthesis. It controls pigmentation in the skin. Activation of tyrosinase is currently the most common approach in the development of tanning and haircare products. Pratol is a 7-hydroxy-4-methoxyflavone found in Trifolium pratense. In this study, we investigated the effects of pratol on melanogenesis. We also studied the mechanism of action of pratol in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. The cells were treated with various concentrations (6.25, 12.5, 25, and 50 μM) of pratol to observe its effects. The results showed that pratol significantly increased melanin content and tyrosinase activity in the cells without being cytotoxic. In addition, pratol strongly increased the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and 2 by enhancing the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. Furthermore, pratol stimulated melanogenesis via the phosphorylation of p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK), and extracellular signal–regulated kinase (ERK). The findings from an assay searching for the inhibitor revealed that SB203580 (a specific p38 inhibitor) or SP600125 (a p-JNK inhibitor) attenuated pratol-induced cellular tyrosinase activity whereas PD98059 (an ERK inhibitor) did not. Additionally, pratol interfered with the phosphorylation of p-AKT. We also found that pratol-induced melanogenesis was reversed by H89, which is a specific protein kinase A inhibitor. The results suggest that, owing to its multi-functional properties, pratol may be a potential tanning agent or a therapeutic agent for hair depigmentation in the cosmetic industry.

This study was carried out to investigate the antimelanogenic effects of a Polygonum tinctorium flower extract obtained using red nuruk, a traditional Jeju barley-based fermentation starter. We also studied the mechanism of action of the P. tinctorium fermented flower extract (PTFFE) in mouse melanoma cells (B16F10). Cells were treated with various concentrations (62.5, 125 and 250 μg/mL) of PTFFE and the results showed that PTFFE significantly decreased the melanin content and tyrosinase activity without being cytotoxic. In addition, PTFFE strongly inhibited the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 2 by decreasing the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, as shown by a western blot assay. Furthermore, PTFFE inhibited melanogenesis via upregulation of the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and protein kinase B, also known as AKT. We also used inhibitors such as PD98059 (a specific ERK inhibitor) or LY294002 (an AKT inhibitor) to determine whether the signaling pathways are involved. High-performance liquid chromatography fingerprinting showed the presence of a quercetin glucoside (isoquercitrin) and quercetin in PTFFE. To test the potential for PTFFE application as a cosmetic material, we also performed a primary skin irritation test on human skin. In this assay, PTFFE did not induce any adverse reactions at the treatment dose. Based on these results, we suggest that PTFFE may be considered a potential antimelanogenesis candidate for topical applications.

In this study, in order to explore the anti-melanogenic effect of PFE (Paederia foetida L. extract) and suggest its availability, B16F10 cells, which are murine melanoma cells, were stimulated with alpha-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) to conduct an in vitro experiment. Treatment with PFE in B16F10 cells with activated melanogenesis due to stimulants showed that PFE significantly inhibits melanin content as well as intracellular tyrosinase activity within a range that does not cause cytotoxicity. In addition, Western blot assay demonstrated that PFE strongly inhibited the protein expression of not only tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, -2, and tyrosinase, but also microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Moreover, mechanism studies have shown that PFE processing inhibited the activation of melanin production by regulating the phosphorylation of each mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) family in the MAPK signaling pathway. To test the biocompatibility of PFE on human skin, a primary skin irritation test was performed. The results revealed that PFE did not have any side effects on human skin. These findings suggest that PFE holds great potential as a skin whitening agent and in the prevention of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Side streams and byproducts of food are established sources of natural ingredients in cosmetics. In the present study, we obtained upcycled low-molecular-weight anionic peptides (LMAPs) using byproducts of the post-yuzu-juicing process by employing an enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. For the first time, we isolated anionic peptides less than 500 Da in molecular weight from Citrus junos TANAKA seeds via hydrolysis using this enzyme. The protective effect of LMAPs against UVR-induced photoaging was evaluated using a reconstructed skin tissue (RST) model and keratinocytes. The LMAPs protected the keratinocytes by scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species and by reducing the levels of paracrine cytokines (IL-6 and TNF-α) in UVR (UVA 2 J/cm² and UVB 15 mJ/cm²)-irradiated keratinocytes. Additionally, the increase in melanin synthesis and TRP-2 expression in RST caused by UVR was significantly inhibited by LMAP treatment. This treatment strongly induced the expression of filaggrin and laminin-5 in UVR-irradiated RST. It also increased type I collagen expression in the dermal region and in fibroblasts in vitro. These results suggest that a hydrolytic system using the enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. can be used for the commercial production of LMAPs from food byproducts and that these LMAPs can be effective ingredients for improving photoaging-induced skin diseases.