In the present paper, after a sensitivity analysis, the calibration and verification of a novel morphodynamic model have been conducted based on a high-quality field experiment data base. The morphodynamic model includes a general formula to predict longshore transport and associated coastal morphology over short- and long-term time scales. With respect to the majority of the existing one-line models, which address sandy coastline evolution, the proposed General Shoreline beach model (GSb) is suitable for estimation of shoreline change at a coastal mound made of non-cohesive sediment grains/units as sand, gravel, cobbles, shingle and rock. In order to verify the reliability of the GSb model, a comparison between observed and calculated shorelines in the presence of a temporary groyne deployed at a mixed beach has been performed. The results show that GSb gives a good agreement between observations and predictions, well reproducing the coastal evolution.

Ransley, E., Hann, M., Greaves, D., Raby, A. and Simmonds, D., 2013. Numerical and physical modelling of extreme waves at Wave Hub With a history of international failures, the survivability of coupled systems of wave energy devices and their moorings, particularly those to be installed at development sites like Wave Hub, is surrounded by uncertainty. Potential design solutions require a better understanding of the hydrodynamics and structural loading experienced during extreme events, like rogue wave impact, in order to mitigate the risk of device and mooring failure. Rogue waves are waves with amplitudes far greater than those expected, given the surrounding sea conditions. Intense study into these events stems from their potential for catastrophic impact on ocean engineering structures. However, little is known about their physical origins and, currently, there is no consensus on their definition or explanation of the mechanism which drives them. This paper concerns the numerical modeling and experimental validation of extreme rogue wave examples at the Wave Hub site. Using hindcast data, the 100 year extreme wave at the Wave Hub site is determined. This extreme wave is replicated in Plymouth University's new COAST Lab using a NewWave, dispersive focusing input. To simulate and analyse these events, we duplicate these conditions in a numerical wave tank (NWT), solving the fully nonlinear Navier-Stokes equations, with a free surface, using the Volume of Fluid (VoF) method and open source CFD library OpenFOAM®. The comparison shows that the CFD software is capable of simulating focused waves similar to those produced in the physical tank but tends to overestimate the crest heights. It is also noted that nonlinear effects are important when considering the shape and location of focused wave events.

The aim of this paper is to determine the capability of Evolutionary Computation (EC) method in predicting sediment suspension from the velocity field. EC is a robust search and optimisation technique based on the Darwinian principle of natural evolution, where the fittest will survive. There are different algorithms to simulate natural evolution in computer system. In this paper we use Genetic Programming (GP) methodology to explore a better correlation between the temporal pattern of fluid field and sediment transport. GP code developed by Langdon is modified for sediment transport modelling. Two datasets are used, one from numerical model results and other from field data (Sandy Duck), to evolve symbolic expression for sediment transport. The results from the numerical models are encouraging though the GP found it hard to find relationships from the field data.