The fashion industry has a considerable environmental impact, especially due to the increased generation of waste textiles as a result of fast fashion business models. Although fiber-to-fiber recycling processes are being developed, such a process is in reality a downcycling process, in which the mechanical properties of the textile fibers are impoverished with each cycle. Thus, new alternatives are required to completely close the fashion loop through chemically recycling textile fibers unfit for other types of recycling or resale due to their poor quality. We have evaluated the possibility of using acid hydrolysis to directly depolymerize the cotton fibers in waste textiles to produce a glucose solution, which could subsequently be used for the production of chemicals or fuels. Although a one-step procedure with sulfuric acid was unable to deliver high glucose production, it was possible to achieve a glucose yield over 90% through a two-step procedure, in which concentrated and dilute sulfuric acid were combined to exploit the benefits of both concentrations. Glucose concentrations around 40 g/L were achieved by increasing the solids loading in the two-step process, which might be sufficiently high for the fermentation of the solution into high-value products. Thus, this study demonstrates that it would be possible to chemically recycle (cellulose-based) waste textiles via acid hydrolysis, which, if correctly designed, could avoid the need to use enzymes to achieve high conversion efficiencies.

Large amounts of cellulose-based waste textiles are generated every year, yet little is done to recycle this waste. Alternatives such as fiber-to-fiber recycling, where a significant part of the value of the waste textiles is recovered, are attractive possibilities. In this study, we have investigated the viability of using hydrated zinc chloride (ZnCl₂·4H₂O) as a solvent and swelling agent to convert cotton waste textiles (the most abundant cellulose-based waste textile) into a dissolving pulp that can be used as raw material for the production and spinning of viscose fibers. The solvent produced an accessible dissolving pulp and exhibited excellent recyclability, maintaining good dissolving power even after repeated recycling. The dissolving pulp was subsequently used to produce viscose dope, a spinning solution which was spun and cut into viscose staple fibers. The viscose dope exhibited good properties (moderate filter clogging value and gamma number), and the resulting staple fibers were strong and of good quality (high linear density, elongation, and tenacity). These results illustrate the potential of using hydrated zinc chloride for the production of viscose grade dissolving pulp from cotton waste textiles.

The fashion industry is becoming one of the largest emitters worldwide due to its high consumption of raw materials, its effluents, and the fact that every garment will eventually contribute to the vast amount of waste being incinerated or accumulating in landfills. Although fiber-to-fiber recycling processes are being developed, the mechanical properties of the textile fibers are typically degraded with each such recycle. Thus, tertiary recycling alternatives where textiles are depolymerized to convert them into valuable products are needed to provide end-of-life alternatives and to achieve circularity in the fashion industry. We have developed a method whereby cotton waste textiles are depolymerized to form a glucose solution, using sulfuric acid as the sole catalyst, with a high yield (>70%). The glucose solution produced in this process has a high concentration (>100 g/L), which reduces the purification cost and makes the process industrially relevant. This method can be applied regardless of the quality of the fibers and could therefore process other cellulosic fibers such as viscose. The glucose produced could subsequently be fermented into butanediol or caprolactam, precursors for the production of synthetic textile fibers, thus retaining the value of the waste textiles within the textile value chain.

Biofuels are still too costly to compete in the energy market and it has been suggested that low-value feedstocks could provide an opportunity for the production of low-cost biofuels; however, the lower quality of these feedstocks requires the introduction of a conditioning step in the biorefinery process. The aim of this study was to evaluate whether feedstock savings cover the cost of conditioning in the case of animal bedding. The BioSTEAM software was used to simulate a wheat straw biorefinery and an animal bedding biorefinery, whose economic performance was compared. The wheat straw biorefinery could deliver ethanol at a minimum selling price of USD 0.61 per liter, which is similar to prices in the literature. The cost of producing ethanol in the animal bedding biorefinery without water recycling was almost 40% higher, increasing the minimum selling price to USD 1.1 per liter of ethanol. After introducing water recycling in the conditioning step, the animal bedding biorefinery could deliver ethanol at a minimum selling price of USD 0.38 per liter, which is 40% lower than in the case of the wheat straw biorefinery. This demonstrates that low-value feedstocks can be used to reduce the biofuel price, as feedstock savings easily cover the additional conditioning cost.

Animal bedding, a mixture of straw and manure, could be used as a feedstock for bioenergy production, but its heterogeneity poses new challenges in its use in biorefineries. We have investigated the origin of this heterogeneity and quantified it, and discuss its impact on bioenergy production.

Background: Animal bedding remains an underutilized source of raw material for bioethanol production, despite the economic and environmental benefits of its use. Further research concerning the optimization of the production process is needed, as previously tested pretreatment methods have not increased the conversion efficiency to the levels necessary for commercialization of the process.Results: We propose steam pretreatment of animal bedding, consisting of a mixture of straw and cow manure, to deliver higher ethanol yields. The temperature, residence time and pH were optimized through response-surface modeling, where pretreatment was evaluated based on the ethanol yield obtained through simultaneous saccharification and fermentation of the whole pretreated slurry. The results show that the best conditions for steam pretreatment are 200 °C, for 5 min at pH 2, at which an ethanol yield of about 70% was obtained. Moreover, the model also showed that the pH had the greatest influence on the ethanol yield, followed by the temperature and then the residence time.Conclusions: Based on these results, it appears that steam pretreatment could unlock the potential of animal bedding, as the same conversion efficiencies were achieved as for higher-quality feedstocks such as wheat straw.