A preliminary ethnopharmacological survey, achieved in French Polynesia, led to the collection of the most cited plants among 63 species used to treat “infectious” diseases, with a description of their medicinal uses. Bibliographical investigations and antimicrobial screening permitted the selection of the botanical species Syzygium malaccense (Myrtaceae) for phytochemical analysis. Leaves of Syzygium malaccense were usually used in mixture with rhizomes of Curcuma longa to treat infectious diseases such as cystitis. The methanolic plant extracts were tested in vitro with an agar microdilution method on 33 bacteria strains and 1 yeast to obtain their Minimal Inhibitory Concentration (MIC), and cytotoxicity against HepG2 cells were evaluated. Antimicrobial synergistic effects of methanolic plant extracts from leaves of Syzygium malaccense and rhizomes from Curcuma longa were also evaluated. The bio-guided isolation of leaf extract from Syzygium malaccense led to the identification of seven alkyl-salicylic acids (anacardic acids or ginkgolic acids C15:0, C15:1, C17:0, C17:1, C17:2, C17:3 and C19:1) described for the first time in this species. All compounds were tested against Staphylococcus aureus (18.75 < MIC < 75.0 µg/mL), Streptococcus pyogenes (2.34 < MIC < 18.75 µg/mL) and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (MIC = 150 µg/mL), and their structure–activity relationships were discussed. The methanolic extract and salicylic derivatives from S. malaccense showed an interesting antimicrobial activity against Gram+ bacteria, without toxicity on hepG2 cells at 400 μg/mL. Moreover, these antibacterial compounds have already been studied for their anti-inflammatory activity, which supports the therapeutic interest of S. malaccense against infectious diseases.

Oxidative stress contributes to impairment of skin health, the wound healing process, and pathologies such as psoriasis or skin cancer. Five Polynesian medicinal plants, among the most traditionally used for skin care (pimples, wounds, burns, dermatoses) are studied herein for their antioxidant properties: Calophyllum inophyllum, Gardenia taitensis, Curcuma longa, Cordia subcordata, and Ficus prolixa. Plant extracts were submitted to in vitro bioassays related to antioxidant properties and their bioactive constituents were identified by a metabolomic analytical approach. High performance liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) analysis was performed leading to the characterization of 61 metabolites. Compounds annotated for F. prolixa and C. subcordata extracts were reported for the first time. Antioxidant properties were evaluated by total phenolic content (TPC), free radical scavenging DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl), and Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power activity (FRAP) assays. F. prolixa extract was the most active one and showed antioxidant intracellular activity on keratinocytes by Anti Oxydant Power 1 assay. Online HPLC-DPPH allowed the identification of phenolic bioactive compounds such as quercetin-O-rhamnoside, rosmarinic acid, chlorogenic acid, procyanidins, epicatechin, 5-O-caffeoylshikimic acid, and curcumin as being responsible for the scavenging properties of these plant extracts. These results highlight the potential of F. prolixa aerial roots as a source of antioxidants for skin care applications.

The term cosmetopoeia refers to the use of plants in folks’ cosmetics. The aerial parts of Bidens pilosa L., the leaves of Calophyllum inophyllum L. and the fruits of Fagraea berteroana A.Gray ex Benth are traditionally used in French Polynesia for hair and skin care. During the hair cycle, dermal papilla cells and their interaction with epithelial cells are essential to promote hair follicle elongation. The aim of our investigations was the identification of metabolites from these three plants and chemical families responsible for their hair growth activity. A bioactivity-based molecular network was produced by mapping the correlation between features obtained from LC-MS/MS data and dermal papilla cell proliferation, using the Pearson correlation coefficient. The analyses pointed out glycosylated flavonols and phenolic acids from B. pilosa and C. inophyllum, along with C-flavonoids, iridoids and secoiridoids from F. berteroana, as potential bioactive molecules involved in the proliferation of hair follicle dermal papilla cells. Our results highlight the metabolites of the plant species potentially involved in the induction of hair follicle growth and support the traditional uses of these plants in hair care.

Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, Bidens pilosa, Calophyllum inophyllum and Fagraea berteroana, to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, CCND1, LEF1, DKK1, WNT5A PPARD, TGFΒ1, PPARD and RSPO2. Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated CCND1, LEF1 and PPARD involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, DKK1 and TGFB1. Our findings suggest that extracts from B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth.

Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia.