Madecassoside (MA), a pentacyclic triterpene isolated from Centella asitica (L.), is used as a therapeutic agent in wound healing and also as an anti-inflammatory and anti-aging agent. However, the involvement of MA in skin-pigmentation has not been reported. This study was conducted to investigate the effects of MA on ultraviolet (UV)-induced melanogenesis and mechanisms in a co-culture system of keratinocytes and melanocytes. MA significantly inhibited UVR-induced melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer in the co-culture system. These effects were further demonstrated by the MA-induced inhibition of protease-activated receptor-2 expression and its signaling pathway, cyclooxygenase-2, prostaglandin E2 and prostaglandin F2 alpha in keratinocytes. The clinical efficacy of MA was confirmed on artificially tanned human skin. MA significantly reduced UV-induced melanin index at 8 weeks after topical application. Overall, the study demonstrated significant benefits of MA use in the inhibition of hyperpigmentation caused by UV irradiation.

Loliolide is a monoterpenoid hydroxylactone found in many algae, including fresh water green algae, Prasiola japonica. To date, loliolide and compounds in P. japonica have not been studied systematically with respect to skin pharmacology. In this study, we investigated oxidative stress-protective and anti-melanogenic effects of loliolide and P. japonica ethanol extract (Pj-EE), known to contain loliolide, in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and mouse melanoma (B16F10) cells. Loliolide suppressed the transcription of genes encoding matrix metalloproteinases (MMPS), which were induced in HaCaT cells by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) treatment. Loliolide and Pj-EE not only reduced the melanin secretion and content in B16F10 cells but also increased the expression of the antioxidant proteins nuclear factor (erythroid-derived 2)-like 2 (NRF2) and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) in HaCaT cells subjected to H₂O₂ treatment. Furthermore, loliolide and Pj-EE decreased expression of the anti-melanogenic protein microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase in B16F10 cells subjected to α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) treatment. Our findings demonstrate that loliolide and Pj-EE have antioxidant and anti-melanogenic effects on skin.

Immunostimulants play an important role in the treatment of immunodeficiency. Macrophages are the first line in our immune defense system and play a critical role in the immune response. Therefore, finding new and better substances to induce an immune response by activating macrophages is an attractive research topic, especially in the fields of immunopharmacology and cancer prevention. Keratinocytes actively crosstalk with immune cells during wound repair, so enhancing the function of keratinocytes is also an important part of improving immunity. Beta-glucans are naturally occurring polysaccharides, consisting of d-glucose monomers linked by beta-glycosidic bonds. Several studies have investigated the immunomodulatory effects of beta-glucan, such as its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. However, the use of yeast cell wall glucan has been limited because it is not soluble in water. In this study, we produced low-molecular-weight water-soluble yeast glucan (WSY glucan) and confirmed various aspects of its immune-enhancing effect. The structure of the beta-(1→3) and (1→6) bonds of WSY glucan were confirmed by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (¹H-NMR) analysis. Our results showed that treatment with WSY glucan significantly and dose-dependently induced the production of inflammatory mediators (prostaglandin E₂ (PGE₂) and nitric oxide (NO)) and pro-inflammatory cytokines (tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α and interleukin (IL)-6) in macrophages. In addition, WSY glucan treatment showed changes in the morphological structure of the macrophages and promoted phagocytic activity of the macrophages and wound healing in keratinocytes. Based on these results, WSY glucan is considered as a potential candidate for the treatment of diseases related to the weakening of the immune system without the limitation of insolubility.

The accumulation of free radicals and advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in the skin plays a very important role in skin aging. Both are known to interact with each other. Therefore, natural compounds or extracts that possess both antioxidant and antiglycation activities might have great antiageing potential. Akebia quinata fruit extract (AQFE) has been used to treat urinary tract inflammatory disease in traditional Korean and Chinese medicines. In the present study, AQFE was demonstrated to possess antioxidant and antiglycation activity. AQFE protects human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) from oxidative stress and inhibits cellular senescence induced by oxidative stress. We also found that AQFE inhibits glycation reaction between BSA and glucose. The antiglycation activity of AQFE was dose-dependent. In addition, the antiglycation activity of AQFE was confirmed in a human skin explant model. AQFE reduced CML expression and stimulated fibrillin-1 expression in comparison to the methyglyoxal treatment. In addition, the possibility of the extract as an anti-skin aging agent has also been clinically validated. Our analysis of the crow’s feet wrinkle showed that there was a decrease in the depth of deep furrows in RI treated with AQFE cream over an eight-week period. The overall results suggest that AQFE may work as an anti-skin aging agent by preventing oxidative stress and other complications associated with AGEs formation.

Bidens pilosa L. (Asteraceae) has been used historically in traditional Asian medicine and is known to have a variety of biological effects. However, the specific active compounds responsible for the individual pharmacological effects of Bidens pilosa L. (B. pilosa) extract have not yet been made clear. This study aimed to investigate the anti-inflammatory phytochemicals obtained from B. pilosa. We isolated a flavonoids-type phytochemical, isookanin, from B. pilosa through bioassay-guided fractionation based on its capacity to inhibit inflammation. Some of isookanin’s biological properties have been reported; however, the anti-inflammatory mechanism of isookanin has not yet been studied. In the present study, we evaluated the anti-inflammatory activities of isookanin using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. We have shown that isookanin reduces the production of proinflammatory mediators (nitric oxide, prostaglandin E₂) by inhibiting the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) in LPS-stimulated macrophages. Isookanin also inhibited the expression of activator protein 1 (AP-1) and downregulated the LPS-induced phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and c-jun NH₂-terminal kinase (JNK) in the MAPK signaling pathway. Additionally, isookanin inhibited proinflammatory cytokines (tumor necrosis factor-a (TNF-α), interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8), and interleukin-1β (IL-1β)) in LPS-induced THP-1 cells. These results demonstrate that isookanin could be a potential therapeutic candidate for inflammatory disease.

Andrographis paniculata (A. paniculata, Chuanxinlian), a medicinal herb with an extremely bitter taste that is native to China and other parts of Southeast Asia, possesses immense therapeutic value; however, its therapeutic properties have rarely been applied in the field of skin care. In this study, we investigated the effect of an A. paniculata extract (APE) on human epidermal stem cells (EpSCs), and confirmed its anti-aging effect through in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo study. An MTT assay was used to determine cell proliferation. A flow cytometric analysis, with propidium iodide, was used to evaluate the cell cycle. The expression of integrin β1 (CD29), the stem cell marker, was detected with antibodies, using flow cytometry in vitro, and immunohistochemical assays in ex vivo. Type 1 collagen and VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor) were measured using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). During the clinical study, skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkling, sagging, and dermal density were evaluated before treatment and at four and eight weeks after the treatment with the test product (containing the APE) on the face. The proliferation of the EpSCs, treated with the APE, increased significantly. In the cell cycle analysis, the APE increased the G2/M and S stages in a dose-dependent manner. The expression of integrin β1, which is related to epidermal progenitor cell expansion, was up-regulated in the APE-treated EpSCs and skin explants. In addition, the production of VEGF in the EpSCs increased significantly in response to the APE treatment. Consistent with these results, the VEGF and APE-treated EpSCs conditioned medium enhanced the Type 1 collagen production in normal human fibroblasts (NHFs). In the clinical study, the APE improved skin hydration, dermal density, wrinkling, and sagging significantly. Our findings revealed that the APE promotes a proliferation of EpSCs, through the up-regulation of the integrin β1 and VEGF expression. The VEGF might affect the collagen synthesis of NHF as a paracrine factor. Clinical studies further suggested that treatment with formulations containing APE confers anti-aging benefits. Based on these results, we suggest that APE may be introduced as a possible anti-aging agent.