Skin in vitro models offer much promise for research, testing drugs, cosmetics, and medical devices, reducing animal testing and extensive clinical trials. There are several in vitro approaches to mimicking human skin behavior, ranging from simple cell monolayer to complex organotypic and bioengineered 3-dimensional models. Some have been approved for preclinical studies in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and chemicals. However, development of physiologically reliable in vitro human skin models remains in its infancy. This review reports on advances in in vitro complex skin models to study skin homeostasis, aging, and skin disease.

Oxylipins are potent lipid mediators with increasing interest in clinical research. They are usually measured in systemic circulation and can provide a wealth of information regarding key biological processes such as inflammation, vascular tone, or blood coagulation. Although procedures still require harmonization to generate comparable oxylipin datasets, performing comprehensive profiling of circulating oxylipins in large studies is feasible and no longer restricted by technical barriers. However, it is essential to improve and facilitate the biological interpretation of complex oxylipin profiles to truly leverage their potential in clinical research. This requires regular updating of our knowledge about the metabolism and the mode of action of oxylipins, and consideration of all factors that may influence circulating oxylipin profiles independently of the studied disease or condition. This review aims to provide the readers with updated and necessary information regarding oxylipin metabolism, their different forms in systemic circulation, the current limitations in deducing oxylipin cellular effects from in vitro bioactivity studies, the biological and technical confounding factors needed to consider for a proper interpretation of oxylipin profiles.

Nowadays, there is a huge interest on natural products obtained from marine organisms that can promote the state of health and well-being for humans. Microalgae represent a primary source of bioactive compounds that could be used as functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations. The aim of the present study is to evaluate for the first time, the effects of Nannochloropsis gaditana extract against oxidative stress in human primary fibroblasts so as to investigate the potential applications of it in cosmetics. To gain an insight into the molecular mechanisms of N. gaditana bioactivity, we developed a new RT-qPCR platform for studying transcript accumulation for an array of selected genes (up to 100) involved in many skin-related processes including anti-aging, hydration, oxidative stress response, DNA damage. For the oxidative stress evaluation, H2O2 was used as stressor. The study of the transcript accumulation of genes revealed that N. gaditana extract exhibits skin protection properties by mediating oxidative responses and apoptosis (including SOD1,GPX1,BID), positively regulates genes involves in skin texture and hydration (including AQP3 Col6A1 FBN1) and modulates the expression of genes involved in skin irritation, DNA damage and aging (including IL1R PCNA FOXO3). These findings indicate that the specific N. gaditana extract possesses significant in vitro skin protection activity against induced oxidative stress, and provide new insights into the beneficial role of microalgae bioactive compounds in cosmetic formulations protecting skin from oxidative stress.