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Dave heads up research and product development at Lattice Training Ltd, a UK based climbing coaching company. His research predominately focuses on sport-specific methods for the assessment of climbing performance and their application. Formally, Dave was a research fellow at the University of Derby (2016 – 2019). His research background is in exercise physiology and psychophysiology, with his PhD focusing on the physiological, psychological and biochemical responses to climbing.
Past attempts to define an anaerobic threshold (AnT) have relied upon gas exchange kinetics, lactate testing and field-based evaluations. DFA a1, an index of heart rate (HR) variability (HRV) fractal correlation properties, has been shown to decrease with exercise intensity. The intent of this study is to investigate whether the AnT derived from gas exchange is associated with the transition from a correlated to uncorrelated random HRV pattern signified by a DFA a1 value of 0.5. HRV and gas exchange data were obtained from 15 participants during an incremental treadmill run. Comparison of the HR reached at the second ventilatory threshold (VT2) was made to the HR reached at a DFA a1 value of 0.5 (HRVT2). Based on Bland–Altman analysis and linear regression, there was strong agreement between VT2 and HRVT2 measured by HR (r = 0.78, p < 0.001). Mean VT2 was reached at a HR of 174 (±12) bpm compared to mean HRVT2 at a HR of 171 (±16) bpm. In summary, the HR associated with a DFA a1 value of 0.5 on an incremental treadmill ramp was closely related to that of the HR at the VT2 derived from gas exchange analysis. A distinct numerical value of DFA a1 representing an uncorrelated, random interbeat pattern appears to be associated with the VT2 and shows potential as a noninvasive marker for training intensity distribution and performance status.
Bruce Rogers; David Giles; Nick Draper; Laurent Mourot; Thomas Gronwald. Detection of the Anaerobic Threshold in Endurance Sports: Validation of a New Method Using Correlation Properties of Heart Rate Variability. Journal of Functional Morphology and Kinesiology 2021, 6, 38 .
AMA StyleBruce Rogers, David Giles, Nick Draper, Laurent Mourot, Thomas Gronwald. Detection of the Anaerobic Threshold in Endurance Sports: Validation of a New Method Using Correlation Properties of Heart Rate Variability. Journal of Functional Morphology and Kinesiology. 2021; 6 (2):38.
Chicago/Turabian StyleBruce Rogers; David Giles; Nick Draper; Laurent Mourot; Thomas Gronwald. 2021. "Detection of the Anaerobic Threshold in Endurance Sports: Validation of a New Method Using Correlation Properties of Heart Rate Variability." Journal of Functional Morphology and Kinesiology 6, no. 2: 38.
Jiří Baláš; Jan Gajdošík; David Giles; Simon Fryer; Dominika Krupková; Tomáš Brtník; Andri Feldmann. Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers? Graefe's Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology 2021, 121, 1337 -1348.
AMA StyleJiří Baláš, Jan Gajdošík, David Giles, Simon Fryer, Dominika Krupková, Tomáš Brtník, Andri Feldmann. Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers? Graefe's Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology. 2021; 121 (5):1337-1348.
Chicago/Turabian StyleJiří Baláš; Jan Gajdošík; David Giles; Simon Fryer; Dominika Krupková; Tomáš Brtník; Andri Feldmann. 2021. "Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?" Graefe's Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology 121, no. 5: 1337-1348.
Forest Bathing, where individuals use mindfulness to engage with nature, has been reported to increase heart rate variability and benefit wellbeing. To date, most Forest Bathing studies have been conducted in Asia. Accordingly, this paper reports the first pragmatic controlled trial of Forest Bathing in the United Kingdom, comparing Forest Bathing with a control comprising an established wellbeing intervention also known to increase heart rate variability called Compassionate Mind Training. Sixty-one university staff and students (50 females, 11 males) were allocated to (i) Forest Bathing, (ii) Compassionate Mind Training or (iii) Forest Bathing combined with Compassionate Mind Training. Wellbeing and heart rate variability were measured at baseline, post-intervention and three-months follow-up. There were improvements in positive emotions, mood disturbance, rumination, nature connection and compassion and 57% of participants showed an increase in heart rate variability. There were no significant differences between conditions, showing that Forest Bathing had equivalence with an established wellbeing intervention. The findings will help healthcare providers and policy makers to understand the effects of Forest Bathing and implement it as a feasible social prescription to improve wellbeing. Future research needs to involve clinical populations and to assess the effects of Forest Bathing in a fully powered randomised controlled trial.
Kirsten McEwan; David Giles; Fiona Clarke; Yasu Kotera; Gary Evans; Olga Terebenina; Lina Minou; Claire Teeling; Jaskaran Basran; Wendy Wood; Dominic Weil. A Pragmatic Controlled Trial of Forest Bathing Compared with Compassionate Mind Training in the UK: Impacts on Self-Reported Wellbeing and Heart Rate Variability. Sustainability 2021, 13, 1380 .
AMA StyleKirsten McEwan, David Giles, Fiona Clarke, Yasu Kotera, Gary Evans, Olga Terebenina, Lina Minou, Claire Teeling, Jaskaran Basran, Wendy Wood, Dominic Weil. A Pragmatic Controlled Trial of Forest Bathing Compared with Compassionate Mind Training in the UK: Impacts on Self-Reported Wellbeing and Heart Rate Variability. Sustainability. 2021; 13 (3):1380.
Chicago/Turabian StyleKirsten McEwan; David Giles; Fiona Clarke; Yasu Kotera; Gary Evans; Olga Terebenina; Lina Minou; Claire Teeling; Jaskaran Basran; Wendy Wood; Dominic Weil. 2021. "A Pragmatic Controlled Trial of Forest Bathing Compared with Compassionate Mind Training in the UK: Impacts on Self-Reported Wellbeing and Heart Rate Variability." Sustainability 13, no. 3: 1380.
Recent study points to the value of a non-linear heart rate variability (HRV) biomarker using detrended fluctuation analysis (DFA a1) for aerobic threshold determination (HRVT). Significance of recording artefact, correction methods and device bias on DFA a1 during exercise and HRVT is unclear. Gas exchange and HRV data were obtained from 17 participants during an incremental treadmill run using both ECG and Polar H7 as recording devices. First, artefacts were randomly placed in the ECG time series to equal 1, 3 and 6% missed beats with correction by Kubios software’s automatic and medium threshold method. Based on linear regression, Bland Altman analysis and Wilcoxon paired testing, there was bias present with increasing artefact quantity. Regardless of artefact correction method, 1 to 3% missed beat artefact introduced small but discernible bias in raw DFA a1 measurements. At 6% artefact using medium correction, proportional bias was found (maximum 19%). Despite this bias, the mean HRVT determination was within 1 bpm across all artefact levels and correction modalities. Second, the HRVT ascertained from synchronous ECG vs. Polar H7 recordings did show an average bias of minus 4 bpm. Polar H7 results suggest that device related bias is possible but in the reverse direction as artefact related bias.
Bruce Rogers; David Giles; Nick Draper; Laurent Mourot; Thomas Gronwald. Influence of Artefact Correction and Recording Device Type on the Practical Application of a Non-Linear Heart Rate Variability Biomarker for Aerobic Threshold Determination. Sensors 2021, 21, 821 .
AMA StyleBruce Rogers, David Giles, Nick Draper, Laurent Mourot, Thomas Gronwald. Influence of Artefact Correction and Recording Device Type on the Practical Application of a Non-Linear Heart Rate Variability Biomarker for Aerobic Threshold Determination. Sensors. 2021; 21 (3):821.
Chicago/Turabian StyleBruce Rogers; David Giles; Nick Draper; Laurent Mourot; Thomas Gronwald. 2021. "Influence of Artefact Correction and Recording Device Type on the Practical Application of a Non-Linear Heart Rate Variability Biomarker for Aerobic Threshold Determination." Sensors 21, no. 3: 821.
Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) may improve forearm muscle oxygenation and enhance performance in high-level rock climbers. As such, using a double-blind, randomized, cross-over design study, twelve participants performed an oxidative capacity assessment, and two successive exhaustive exercise trials (submaximal forearm muscle contractions at 60 % of their maximal volitional contraction). Each visit was conducted following 7-days intake of 600 mg·day-1 NZBC extract or placebo. Oxidative capacity was estimated by calculating the oxygen half time recovery using near infrared spectroscopy. Time to exhaustion (s), impulse (kg·s), and minimum tissue saturation index (min-TSI %) were assessed during both the exercise trials. Muscle oxidative capacity was greater with NZBC (mean difference [MD] = 5.3 s, 95% confidence intervals [95% CI] = 0.4 – 10.2 s; p = 0.036; Cohen’s d = 0.94). During the exercise trials, there was an interaction for min-TSI % (time x condition, p = 0.046; ηp2 = 0.372), which indicated a greater level of oxygen extraction during trial two with NZBC extract (MD = 9 %, 95% CI = 2-15 %) compared to the placebo (MD = 2 %, 95% CI = 1 - 7 %). There was a decrease in time to exhaustion (p <0.001, ηp2 =0.693) and impulse (p = 0.001, ηp2 =0.672) in exercise trial two, with no effect of NZBC extract. In high level rock climbers 7-days NZBC extract improves forearm muscle oxygenation with no effect on isolated forearm muscle performance.
Simon Fryer; Dave Giles; Ellis Bird; Keeron Stone; Craig Paterson; Jiří Baláš; Mark E. T. Willems; Julia A. Potter; Ian C. Perkins. New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science 2020, 1 -9.
AMA StyleSimon Fryer, Dave Giles, Ellis Bird, Keeron Stone, Craig Paterson, Jiří Baláš, Mark E. T. Willems, Julia A. Potter, Ian C. Perkins. New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. 2020; ():1-9.
Chicago/Turabian StyleSimon Fryer; Dave Giles; Ellis Bird; Keeron Stone; Craig Paterson; Jiří Baláš; Mark E. T. Willems; Julia A. Potter; Ian C. Perkins. 2020. "New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers." European Journal of Sport Science , no. : 1-9.
Despite climbing’s popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8–9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6–2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0–3.7 h & MD = 0.9–1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9–16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6–65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R2 = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R2 = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.
David Giles; Kimberly Barnes; Nicola Taylor; Corinna Chidley; Joel Chidley; James Mitchell; Oliver Torr; Edward Gibson-Smith; Vanesa España-Romero. Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences 2020, 39, 48 -56.
AMA StyleDavid Giles, Kimberly Barnes, Nicola Taylor, Corinna Chidley, Joel Chidley, James Mitchell, Oliver Torr, Edward Gibson-Smith, Vanesa España-Romero. Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences. 2020; 39 (1):48-56.
Chicago/Turabian StyleDavid Giles; Kimberly Barnes; Nicola Taylor; Corinna Chidley; Joel Chidley; James Mitchell; Oliver Torr; Edward Gibson-Smith; Vanesa España-Romero. 2020. "Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers." Journal of Sports Sciences 39, no. 1: 48-56.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between attention (using two different attention tasks) and self-reported climbing ability while considering potential confounding factors (sex, age, climbing experience, and cardiorespiratory fitness) in a group of experienced climbers. Accuracy of response (AC) and reaction time (RT) from two different attention tasks using the Vienna Test System, along with self-reported on-sight and red-point climbing ability, were assessed in 35 climbers. Linear regression revealed that climbers with the highest self-reported on-sight grade had better AC during the attention task. Linear regression models revealed, after controlling for potential confounders, that AC, measured using two attention tasks, was positively related to climbers' highest self-reported on-sight climbing ability (β = 0.388; p = 0.031). No significant differences were found between AC and self-reported red-point climbing ability (β = 0.286; p = 0.064). No significant relationship was found between RT and climbing ability (β = -0.102 to 0.020; p = 0.064). In conclusion, higher-level rock climbers appear to have an enhanced attention, which is related to on-sight lead climbing style, and thus, it may be an important component of climbing performance. Coaches should consider incorporating techniques to train attention based on on-sight climbing style in climbers.
Inmaculada Garrido-Palomino; Simon Fryer; Dave Giles; Javier J. Gonzalez-Rosa; Vanesa España-Romero. Attentional Differences as a Function of Rock Climbing Performance. Frontiers in Psychology 2020, 11, 1550 .
AMA StyleInmaculada Garrido-Palomino, Simon Fryer, Dave Giles, Javier J. Gonzalez-Rosa, Vanesa España-Romero. Attentional Differences as a Function of Rock Climbing Performance. Frontiers in Psychology. 2020; 11 ():1550.
Chicago/Turabian StyleInmaculada Garrido-Palomino; Simon Fryer; Dave Giles; Javier J. Gonzalez-Rosa; Vanesa España-Romero. 2020. "Attentional Differences as a Function of Rock Climbing Performance." Frontiers in Psychology 11, no. : 1550.
Purpose: To assess the validity and reliability of a novel movement-performance assessment tool for climbing/sport climbing. Methods: First, salient climbing movement-performance factors were identified through an iterative consultation process with 10 expert climbing coaches; the resulting Climber’s Movement Performance Assessment Tool (CM-PAT) contained 14 items in 5 categories. Second, 61 intermediate to advanced climbers ascended a single route, which was video recorded. Subsequently, 4 experienced (>10 y coaching) coaches used the CM-PAT to observe and score the climbers’ performance. Interrater reliability and comparisons with existing measures of climbing performance (6-mo self-reported ability, success and failure, climbing pace [m·min−1], and geometric entropy) were made. Results: Intraclass correlation coefficient (2,k) for the 4 raters demonstrated excellent reliability (>.81) between observers and good to excellent test–retest reliability (.71–.91). Pearson correlations between self-reported ability and CM-PAT scores explained 61% of the variance in self-reported climbing performance compared with 16% for geometric entropy and 52% for climbing pace. Considering differences in successful and unsuccessful climbers, the CM-PAT (P < .0005; d = 2.14), geometric entropy (P = .014; d = 0.67), and pace (P < .0005; d = 1.88) were able to differentiate between groups. Conclusions: The CM-PAT is the first sport climbing performance observational instrument to be developed through a thorough iterative process with expert coaches. Excellent interrater and test–retest reliability and excellent agreement with self-reported ability and with existing quantitative measures of performance support its recommendation for use in coaching and research contexts. Notably, a key advantage over existing measures is the identification of coachable elements of performance.
Nicola Taylor; Dave Giles; Micha Panáčková; James Mitchell; Joel Chidley; Nick Draper. A Novel Tool for the Assessment of Sport Climbers’ Movement Performance. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 2020, 15, 795 -800.
AMA StyleNicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Micha Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel Chidley, Nick Draper. A Novel Tool for the Assessment of Sport Climbers’ Movement Performance. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 2020; 15 (6):795-800.
Chicago/Turabian StyleNicola Taylor; Dave Giles; Micha Panáčková; James Mitchell; Joel Chidley; Nick Draper. 2020. "A Novel Tool for the Assessment of Sport Climbers’ Movement Performance." International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 15, no. 6: 795-800.
Despite the importance of effective observational analysis in coaching the technical aspects of climbing performance, limited research informs this aspect of climbing coach education. Thus, the purpose of the present research was to explore the feasibility and the utility of a novel methodology, combining eye tracking technology and cued retrospective think-aloud (RTA), to capture the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms that underpin the visual search behaviors of climbing coaches. An analysis of gaze data revealed that expert climbing coaches demonstrate fewer fixations of greater duration and fixate on distinctly different areas of the visual display than their novice counterparts. Cued RTA further demonstrated differences in the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms underpinning these visual search strategies, with expert coaches being more cognizant of their visual search strategy. To expand, the gaze behavior of expert climbing coaches was underpinned by hierarchical and complex knowledge structures relating to the principles of climbing movement. This enabled the expert coaches to actively focus on the most relevant aspects of a climber’s performance for analysis. The findings demonstrate the utility of combining eye tracking and cued RTA interviewing as a new, efficient methodology of capturing the cognitive–perceptual processes of climbing coaches to inform coaching education/strategies.
James Mitchell; Frances A. Maratos; Dave Giles; Nicola Taylor; Andrew Butterworth; David Sheffield. The Visual Search Strategies Underpinning Effective Observational Analysis in the Coaching of Climbing Movement. Frontiers in Psychology 2020, 11, 1025 .
AMA StyleJames Mitchell, Frances A. Maratos, Dave Giles, Nicola Taylor, Andrew Butterworth, David Sheffield. The Visual Search Strategies Underpinning Effective Observational Analysis in the Coaching of Climbing Movement. Frontiers in Psychology. 2020; 11 ():1025.
Chicago/Turabian StyleJames Mitchell; Frances A. Maratos; Dave Giles; Nicola Taylor; Andrew Butterworth; David Sheffield. 2020. "The Visual Search Strategies Underpinning Effective Observational Analysis in the Coaching of Climbing Movement." Frontiers in Psychology 11, no. : 1025.
Torr, O, Randall, T, Knowles, R, Giles, D, and Atkins, S. The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climbers' isometric finger strength. J Strength Cond Res XX(X): 000–000, 2020—Isometric strength of the finger flexors is considered to be one of the main physical determinants of sport rock climbing performance. We set out to determine the test-retest reliability and criterion validity of a low resource maximal isometric finger strength (MIFS) testing protocol that uses a pulley system to add or remove weight to/from a climber's body. To determine test-retest reliability, 15 subjects' MIFS was assessed on 2 occasions, separated by a minimum of 48 hours. Body mass and maximum load were recorded on both occasions. Intra-class correlation coefficients (ICCs) between visits for all variables were very good (ICC > 0.91), with small bias and effect sizes—particularly when expressed as a percentage of body mass (ICC = 0.98, 95% confidence interval 0.93–0.99). To determine the criterion validity of MIFS and climbing ability, data of 229 intermediate to higher elite climbers were compared. Pearson's product moment correlations demonstrated good agreement, again particularly between total load when expressed as a percentage of body mass and climbing performance (r = 0.421–0.503). The results illustrate the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of MIFS in intermediate to height elite climbers from an ecologically valid, climbing specific test that only requires equipment found at most climbing walls. This low resource test protocol for the assessment of isometric finger strength has wide-reaching utility, for instance when assessing strength before and after a training intervention or when prescribing load intensities for exercises aimed at improving maximal finger strength.
Oliver Torr; Thomas Randall; Remus Knowles; David Giles; Stephen Atkins. Reliability and Validity of a Method for the Assessment of Sport Rock Climbers' Isometric Finger Strength. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 2020, Publish Ah, 1 .
AMA StyleOliver Torr, Thomas Randall, Remus Knowles, David Giles, Stephen Atkins. Reliability and Validity of a Method for the Assessment of Sport Rock Climbers' Isometric Finger Strength. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 2020; Publish Ah ():1.
Chicago/Turabian StyleOliver Torr; Thomas Randall; Remus Knowles; David Giles; Stephen Atkins. 2020. "Reliability and Validity of a Method for the Assessment of Sport Rock Climbers' Isometric Finger Strength." Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research Publish Ah, no. : 1.
Objective: This study aimed to explore parents' attitudes toward the content of their child's packed lunch, school healthy eating policies, and their child's wishes. Furthermore, in this context, it also aimed to explore perceptions of health promotional materials and how these interventions interplayed with issues parents felt were important. Design: The ideology of ‘figured worlds’ was used as a stance to consider the relationship between bounding structures within society and the individual positional identity. Focus groups interviews obtained qualitative data of parents' multiple viewpoints. Iterative categorisation was employed as a method of analysis to observed findings in the data in relation to the individuals as intersubjective beings and their behaviour influenced by environmental conditions. Setting: A cross selection of local schools and parenting network were approached. Snowballing techniques were implemented highlighting the inclusion criteria. Subjects: Participants were required to have a child attending primary school who they provided a packed lunch for on a regular basis. Results: Three umbrella themes were identified: ‘The parents ideal’, ‘The child's desires’, and ‘Inconsistencies of the governing school’. A fourth theme, ‘The health promotional intrusion’ provides insight into the parents' reality when being presented with health promotional materials. Conclusions: This study has highlighted the complex, conflicting interplay between parents' ideal for their child's diet, their child's desires and the governing approaches to encouraging healthier choices. This understanding is vital when designing specific interventions to meet the needs of individuals, which prevent, protect and promote a healthy lifestyle for children and their families.
Jessica Jackson; Dave Giles; Clarabelle Gerrard. Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches. British Journal of School Nursing 2019, 14, 335 -341.
AMA StyleJessica Jackson, Dave Giles, Clarabelle Gerrard. Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches. British Journal of School Nursing. 2019; 14 (7):335-341.
Chicago/Turabian StyleJessica Jackson; Dave Giles; Clarabelle Gerrard. 2019. "Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches." British Journal of School Nursing 14, no. 7: 335-341.
Purpose:To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF) and the energy store componentW′ are applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions of the finger flexors of rock climbers, using a multisession test. As a secondary aim, the agreement of estimates of CF andW′ from a single-session test was also determined. The CF was defined as the slope coefficient, andW′ was the intercept of the linear relationship between total “isometric work” (Wlim) and time to exhaustion (Tlim).Methods:Subjects performed 3 (separated by either 20 min or >24 h) tests to failure using intermittent isometric finger-flexor contractions at 45%, 60%, and 80% of their maximum voluntary contraction.Results:Force plotted againstTlimdisplayed a hyperbolic relationship; correlation coefficients of the parameter estimates from the work–time CF model were consistently very high (R2 > .94). Climbers’ mean CF was 425.7 (82.8) N (41.0% [6.2%] maximum voluntary contraction) andW′ was 30,882 (11,820) N·s. Good agreement was found between the single-session and multisession protocol for CF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC3,1] = .900; 95% confidence interval, .616–.979), but not forW′ (ICC3,1 = .768; 95% confidence interval, .190–.949).Conclusions:The results demonstrated the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of CF andW′, using equipment readily available in most climbing gyms. Although further work is still necessary, the test of CF described is of value for understanding exercise tolerance and to determine optimal training prescription to monitor improvements in the performance of the finger flexors.
Dave Giles; Joel Chidley; Nicola Taylor; Ollie Torr; Josh Hadley; Tom Randall; Simon Fryer. The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 2019, 14, 972 -979.
AMA StyleDave Giles, Joel Chidley, Nicola Taylor, Ollie Torr, Josh Hadley, Tom Randall, Simon Fryer. The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 2019; 14 (7):972-979.
Chicago/Turabian StyleDave Giles; Joel Chidley; Nicola Taylor; Ollie Torr; Josh Hadley; Tom Randall; Simon Fryer. 2019. "The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers." International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 14, no. 7: 972-979.
Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from the aerobic metabolism. Previously it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics, or a sport specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal de-oxygenation (Δ score) during a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak test, treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak, or running V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance. Twenty-one male sport rock climbers completed a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak, running V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]max and an assessment of near infrared spectroscopy derived oxidative capacity index. Linear regression, adjusted for age and experience (years), revealed that forearm oxidative capacity index, treadwall maximal de-oxygenation (Δ) and treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak all significantly predicted self-reported red-point sport climbing ability (Adj R[SUBSCRIPT TWO] =-0.398; -0.255; 0.374 respectively), whereas treadmill running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max did not (Adj R[SUBSCRIPT TWO] =0.-0.052). Additionally, multiple regression suggested that the combined significant aerobic predictors accounted for 67% of the variance in red-point climbing ability. Findings suggest that training for sport rock climbing performance should look to incorporate modalities which focus on 1) improving local forearm aerobic capacity, and 2) improving whole body aerobic capacity using sport-specific apparatus such as treadwalls.
Simon M. Fryer; Dave Giles; Inmaculada Garrido Palomino; Alejandro De-La-O; Vanesa España Romero. Hemodynamic and Cardiorespiratory Predictors of Sport Rock Climbing Performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 2018, 32, 3534 -3541.
AMA StyleSimon M. Fryer, Dave Giles, Inmaculada Garrido Palomino, Alejandro De-La-O, Vanesa España Romero. Hemodynamic and Cardiorespiratory Predictors of Sport Rock Climbing Performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 2018; 32 (12):3534-3541.
Chicago/Turabian StyleSimon M. Fryer; Dave Giles; Inmaculada Garrido Palomino; Alejandro De-La-O; Vanesa España Romero. 2018. "Hemodynamic and Cardiorespiratory Predictors of Sport Rock Climbing Performance." Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 32, no. 12: 3534-3541.
Giles, DA and Draper, N. Heart rate variability during exercise: a comparison of artefact correction methods. J Strength Cond Res 32(3): 726-735, 2018-There is a need for standard practice in the collection and processing of RR interval data recorded using heart rate monitors (HRMs) in research. This article assessed the validity of RR intervals and heart rate variability (HRV) data obtained using an HRM during incremental exercise and artefact correction methods. Eighteen participants completed an active orthostatic test and incremental running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max test, while simultaneous recordings using a Polar V800 HRM and an electrocardiogram were made. Artefacts were corrected by deletion; degree zero, linear, cubic, and spline interpolation; and Kubios HRV software. Agreement was assessed using percentage bias, effect size (ES), intraclass correlation coefficients (ICC), and Bland-Altman limits of agreement (LoA). Artefacts increased relative to exercise intensity, to a peak of 4.46% during 80-100% V[Combining Dot Above]O2max. Correction of RR intervals was necessary with unacceptably increased bias, LoA, and ES and reduced ICC in all but resting recordings. All correction methods resulted in data with reduced percentage bias and ES for resting and 60% V[Combining Dot Above]O2max, even with correction, large amounts of variation were present in HRV measures of root mean square of the successive difference of intervals, low-to-high frequency ratio, Poincaré dispersion perpendicular to the axis (SD1), and sample entropy. Linear interpolation produced RR intervals with the lowest bias and ES. However, caution should be given to HRV parameters at high exercise intensities, as large amounts of variation were still present. Recommendations for minimizing artefacts are discussed, along with guidelines for their identification, correction, and reporting.
David A. Giles; Nick Draper. Heart Rate Variability During Exercise: A Comparison of Artefact Correction Methods. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 2018, 32, 726 -735.
AMA StyleDavid A. Giles, Nick Draper. Heart Rate Variability During Exercise: A Comparison of Artefact Correction Methods. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 2018; 32 (3):726-735.
Chicago/Turabian StyleDavid A. Giles; Nick Draper. 2018. "Heart Rate Variability During Exercise: A Comparison of Artefact Correction Methods." Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 32, no. 3: 726-735.
This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force–time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2–14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = −1.166, 95% CI (−3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = −1.120, 95% CI (−3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114–3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553–2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or m⩒O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.
S. Fryer; Keeron Stone; J. Sveen; T. Dickson; Vanesa España Romero; D. Giles; Jiří Baláš; L. Stoner; N. Draper. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science 2017, 17, 1177 -1183.
AMA StyleS. Fryer, Keeron Stone, J. Sveen, T. Dickson, Vanesa España Romero, D. Giles, Jiří Baláš, L. Stoner, N. Draper. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. 2017; 17 (9):1177-1183.
Chicago/Turabian StyleS. Fryer; Keeron Stone; J. Sveen; T. Dickson; Vanesa España Romero; D. Giles; Jiří Baláš; L. Stoner; N. Draper. 2017. "Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers." European Journal of Sport Science 17, no. 9: 1177-1183.
Objective:The aim of the study was to determine electromyographic activity of the scapula stabilizing muscles in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions in typical static climbing postures.Methods:Six male participants undertook surface electromyography measurement in four climbing postures for two different shoulder positions. The activity of the lower, middle and upper trapezius, serratus anterior, pectoralis major, and sternocleidomastoid was recorded. Electromyographic activity was expressed as the percentage of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) for each muscle.Results:Climbing postures induced higher activation of middle and lower trapezius in corrected shoulder positions (35.3 ± 11.8 and 61.7 ± 15.4% MVC respectively) than in naturally chosen shoulder positions (18.4 ± 8.9 and 30.1 ± 13.8% MVC respectively). The highest activity of the middle and lower trapezius was found in postures with the arm in external rotation and 90° abduction and in an overhanging posture. Low activation was stated for the other muscles in both shoulder conditions.Conclusion:Results showed that climbers naturally elevate the shoulder during typical static postures. Corrected shoulder positions induce higher activation of the scapula stabilizing muscles than naturally chosen shoulder positions.
Jiří Baláš; Alena Duchačová; Dave Giles; Kateřina Kotalíková; David Pánek; Nick Draper. Shoulder Muscle Activity in Sport Climbing in Naturally Chosen and Corrected Shoulder Positions. The Open Sports Sciences Journal 2017, 10, 107 -113.
AMA StyleJiří Baláš, Alena Duchačová, Dave Giles, Kateřina Kotalíková, David Pánek, Nick Draper. Shoulder Muscle Activity in Sport Climbing in Naturally Chosen and Corrected Shoulder Positions. The Open Sports Sciences Journal. 2017; 10 (1):107-113.
Chicago/Turabian StyleJiří Baláš; Alena Duchačová; Dave Giles; Kateřina Kotalíková; David Pánek; Nick Draper. 2017. "Shoulder Muscle Activity in Sport Climbing in Naturally Chosen and Corrected Shoulder Positions." The Open Sports Sciences Journal 10, no. 1: 107-113.
Purpose:To examine differences in oxygenation kinetics in the nondominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers.Methods:Participants were 28 sport climbers with a range of on-site abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near-infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t1/2 recovery) of the tissue-saturation index (TSI) after 3–5 min of ischemia.Results:A 2-way mixed-model ANOVA found a nonsignificant interaction (P = .112) for TSI by sex. However, there was a significant main effect (P = .027) of handedness (dominant vs nondominant FDP). The dominant forearm recovered 13.6% faster (t1/2 recovery mean difference = 1.12 s, 95% CI 0.13–2.10 s) than the nondominant FDP. This was not affected by 6-mo on-site climbing ability or sex (P = .839, P = .683).Conclusions:Significant intraindividual differences in oxygenation kinetics of the FDP were found. Improvements in oxygenation kinetics in the FDP are likely due to the abilities of the muscle to deliver, perfuse, and consume oxygen. These enhancements may be due to structural adaptations in the microvasculature, such as an increase in capillary density and enhanced improvement in capillary filtration.
Dave Giles; Vanesa España Romero; Inmaculada Garrido; Alejandro De La O Puerta; Keeron Stone; Simon Fryer. Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 2017, 12, 137 -139.
AMA StyleDave Giles, Vanesa España Romero, Inmaculada Garrido, Alejandro De La O Puerta, Keeron Stone, Simon Fryer. Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 2017; 12 (1):137-139.
Chicago/Turabian StyleDave Giles; Vanesa España Romero; Inmaculada Garrido; Alejandro De La O Puerta; Keeron Stone; Simon Fryer. 2017. "Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers." International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 12, no. 1: 137-139.
The aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 min post climbing were assessed using a 2 × 3 repeated measures ANOVA. All hormones and blood lactate concentrations increased significantly (P < 0.05) immediately post climb, except for cortisol. Peak cortisol concentrations did not occur until 15 min post ascent. Further, significant interactions between climbing and clipping conditions were found for total catecholamines (890% of basal concentration in PRO-½ vs. 568% in PRO-all), noradrenaline (794% vs. 532%) and dopamine (500% vs. 210%). There were no significant interactions for adrenaline (1920% vs. 1045%), serotonin (150% vs. 127%) or lactate (329% vs. 279%). The study showed a greater catecholamine response with an increase in potential lead fall distance. The most pronounced increases seen in catecholamine concentration were reported for dopamine and noradrenaline.
Jiří Baláš; Dave Giles; Leona Chrastinová; Kateřina Kárníková; Jan Kodejška; Alžběta Hlaváčková; Ladislav Vomáčko; Nick Draper. The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences 2016, 35, 989 -994.
AMA StyleJiří Baláš, Dave Giles, Leona Chrastinová, Kateřina Kárníková, Jan Kodejška, Alžběta Hlaváčková, Ladislav Vomáčko, Nick Draper. The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences. 2016; 35 (10):989-994.
Chicago/Turabian StyleJiří Baláš; Dave Giles; Leona Chrastinová; Kateřina Kárníková; Jan Kodejška; Alžběta Hlaváčková; Ladislav Vomáčko; Nick Draper. 2016. "The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing." Journal of Sports Sciences 35, no. 10: 989-994.
Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3–5 min of ischemia. Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35–0.94, Adj R 2 = 0.53). Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance.
Simon Fryer; Lee Stoner; Keeron Stone; D. Giles; Joakim Sveen; Inma Garrido; Vanesa España Romero. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. Graefe's Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology 2016, 116, 1479 -1484.
AMA StyleSimon Fryer, Lee Stoner, Keeron Stone, D. Giles, Joakim Sveen, Inma Garrido, Vanesa España Romero. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. Graefe's Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology. 2016; 116 (8):1479-1484.
Chicago/Turabian StyleSimon Fryer; Lee Stoner; Keeron Stone; D. Giles; Joakim Sveen; Inma Garrido; Vanesa España Romero. 2016. "Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance." Graefe's Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology 116, no. 8: 1479-1484.
The present study aimed to determine if autonomic cardiac modulation was influenced by acute exposure to normobaric hypoxia.
David Giles; John Kelly; Nick Draper. Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia. European Journal of Sport Science 2016, 16, 1 -9.
AMA StyleDavid Giles, John Kelly, Nick Draper. Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia. European Journal of Sport Science. 2016; 16 (8):1-9.
Chicago/Turabian StyleDavid Giles; John Kelly; Nick Draper. 2016. "Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia." European Journal of Sport Science 16, no. 8: 1-9.