Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy input into ocean waves by wind and transferred across the spectrum by nonlinearity. It determines the properties of a sea state and plays a crucial role in ocean-atmosphere interaction, ocean pollution, and rogue waves. Owing to its turbulent nature, wave breaking remains too computationally demanding to solve using direct numerical simulations except in simple, short-duration circumstances. To overcome this challenge, we present a blended machine learning framework in which a physics-based nonlinear evolution model for deep-water, non-breaking waves and a recurrent neural network are combined to predict the evolution of breaking waves. We use wave tank measurements rather than simulations to provide training data and use a long short-term memory neural network to apply a finite-domain correction to the evolution model. Our blended machine learning framework gives excellent predictions of breaking and its effects on wave evolution, including for external data.

Nonlinear wave focusing originating from the universal modulation instability (MI) is responsible for the formation of strong wave localizations on the water surface and in nonlinear wave guides, such as optical Kerr media and plasma. Such extreme wave dynamics can be described by breather solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) like by way of example the famed doubly-localized Peregrine breathers (PB), which typify particular cases of MI. On the other hand, it has been suggested that the MI relevance weakens when the wave field becomes broadband or directional. Here, we provide experimental evidence of nonlinear and distinct PB-type focusing in standing water waves describing the scenario of two counterpropagating wave trains. The collected collinear wave measurements are in excellent agreement with the hydrodynamic coupled NLSE (CNLSE) and suggest that MI can undisturbedly prevail during the interplay of several wave systems and emphasize the potential role of exact NLSE solutions in extreme wave formation beyond the formal narrow band and unidirectional limits. Our work may inspire further experimental investigations in various nonlinear wave guides governed by CNLSE frameworks as well as theoretical progress to predict strong wave coherence in directional fields.

Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to the well-known quasi-four-wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. The first is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads to an increased probability of RWs when unidirectionality and narrowband energy of the wave field are satisfied. This work delves into the dynamics of extreme wave focusing in crossing seas, revealing a distinct type of nonlinear RWs, characterised by a decisive longevity compared with those generated by the dispersive focusing (superposition) mechanism. In fact, through fully nonlinear hydrodynamic numerical simulations, we show that the interactions between two crossing unidirectional wave beams can trigger fully localised and robust development of RWs. These coherent structures, characterised by a typical spectral broadening then spreading in the form of dual bimodality and recurrent wave group focusing, not only defy the weakening expectation of quasi-four-wave resonant interaction in directionally spreading wave fields, but also differ from classical focusing mechanisms already mentioned. This has been determined following a rigorous lifespan-based statistical analysis of extreme wave events in our fully nonlinear simulations. Utilising the coupled nonlinear Schrödinger framework, we also show that such intrinsic focusing dynamics can be captured by weakly nonlinear wave evolution equations. This opens new research avenues for further explorations of these complex and intriguing wave phenomena in hydrodynamics as well as other nonlinear and dispersive multi-wave systems.

The modulation instability is a focusing mechanism responsible for the formation of strong wave localizations not only on the water surface, but also in a variety of nonlinear dispersive media. Such dynamics is initiated from the injection of sidebands, which translate into an amplitude modulation of the wave field. The nonlinear stage of unstable wave evolution can be described by exact solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE). In that case, the amplitude modulation of such coherent extreme wave structures is connected to a particular phase-shift seed in the carrier wave. In this Letter, we show that phase-shift localization applied to the background, excluding any amplitude modulation excitation, can indeed trigger extreme events. Such rogue waves can be for instance generated by considering the parametrization of fundamental breathers, and thus by seeding only the local phase-shift information to the regular carrier wave. Our wave tank experiments show an excellent agreement with the expected NLSE hydrodynamics and confirm that even though delayed in their evolution, breather-type extreme waves can be generated from a purely regular wave train. Such a focusing mechanism awaits experimental confirmation in other nonlinear media, such optics, plasma, and Bose-Einstein condensates.

Coherent wave groups are not only characterized by the intrinsic shape of the wave packet, but also by the underlying phase evolution during the propagation. Exact deterministic formulations of hydrodynamic or electromagnetic coherent wave groups can be obtained by solving the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE). When considering the NLSE, there are two asymptotically equivalent formulations, which can be used to describe the wave dynamics: the time- or space-like NLSE. These differences have been theoretically elaborated upon in the 2016 work of Chabchoub and Grimshaw. In this paper, we address fundamental characteristic differences beyond the shape of wave envelope, which arise in the phase evolution. We use the Peregrine breather as a referenced wave envelope model, whose dynamics is created and tracked in a wave flume using two boundary conditions, namely as defined by the time- and space-like NLSE. It is shown that whichever of the two boundary conditions is used, the corresponding local shape of wave localization is very close and almost identical during the evolution; however, the respective local phase evolution is different. The phase dynamics follows the prediction from the respective NLSE framework adopted in each case.

The modulation instability (MI) is responsible for the disintegration of a regular nonlinear wave train and can lead to strong localizations in the form of rogue waves. This mechanism has been studied in a variety of nonlinear dispersive media, such as hydrodynamics, optics, plasma, mechanical systems, electric transmission lines, and Bose–Einstein condensates, while its impact on applied sciences is steadily growing. It is well-known that the classical MI dynamics can be triggered when a pair of small-amplitude sidebands are excited within a particular frequency range around the main peak frequency. That is, a three-wave system, consisting of the carrier wave together with a pair of unstable sidebands, is usually adopted to initiate the wave focusing process in a numerical or laboratory experiment. Breather solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) revealed that MI can generate much more complex localized structures, beyond the three-wave system initialization approach or by means of a continuous spectrum. In this work, we report an experimental study for deep-water surface gravity waves asserting that a MI process can be triggered by a single unstable sideband only, and thus, initialized from a two-wave process when including the contribution of the peak frequency. The experimental data are validated against fully nonlinear hydrodynamic numerical wave tank simulations and show very good agreement. The long-term evolution of such unstable wave trains shows a distinct shift in the recurrent Fermi–Pasta–Ulam–Tsingou focusing cycles, which are captured by the NLSE and fully nonlinear hydrodynamic simulations with some distinctions.