Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Novel surfactants which are nowadays available for incorporation into various formulations of personal care and cosmetic products are numerous, implying a permanent need for their classification. This overview provides essential information relating to synthesis, basic physicochemical characteristics, application and other relevant data on surfactants currently used in cosmetic products. In the second part of the paper an outline of acidic active substances with significant application in cosmetic products is given, as well as the problems that arise during preparation/manufacture of the containing formulations, accompanied with the review of scientific publications and other available reliable data dealing with the incorporation of these actives in the cosmetic formulations stabilized with novel (mainly natural) surfactants.

To elaborate the decisive role of surfactants in promotion of aceclofenac' skin absorption, potentially avoiding irritation, we developed non-ionic microemulsions varying natural or synthetic surfactants: sucrose esters (laurate or myristate) vs. polysorbate 80. A comprehensive physicochemical characterization indicated no significant influence of the solubilized nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug on the bicontinuous structure of blank formulations. To evaluate skin tolerability of isopropyl alcohol, a sucrose ester-based microemulsion containing transcutol P as a cosurfactant was also developed. The measured skin parameters strongly depended on the (co)surfactant type, showing higher compatibility of the microemulsions containing sucrose ester and isopropyl alcohol. In vitro release results, in vivo tape stripping and pharmacokinetics in rats confirmed superiority of the sucrose ester- over polysorbate-based microemulsions (total amounts of aceclofenac penetrated 60.81±5.97 and 60.86±3.67 vs. 27.00±5.09μg/cm(2), and its maximum plasma concentrations 275.57±109.49 and 281.31±76.76 vs. 150.23±69.74ng/ml for sucrose laurate- and myristate- vs. polysorbate 80-based microemulsions, respectively). Hence, sugar-based excipients increased delivery of aceclofenac through stratum corneum by increasing its fluidity, showing overall more satisfying safety profiles. In conclusion, sucrose ester-based microemulsions proved to be promising carriers for dermal/transdermal aceclofenac delivery.