This study deals with the development of a kinematic 3D human-body model with an improved armature in the pelvic region, intended for a sitting posture (SIT), using Blender software. It is based on the scanned female body in a standing posture (STA) and SIT. Real and virtual measures of females’ lower-body circumferences for both postures were examined. Virtual prototyping of trousers was performed to investigate their fit and comfort on the scanned and kinematic 3D body models and to make comparison with real trousers. With the switch from STA to SIT, real and virtual lower-body circumferences increase and are reflected in the fit and comfort of virtual and real trousers. In SIT, the increased circumferences are attributed to the redistribution of body muscles and adipose tissue around the joints, as well as changes in joints’ shapes in body flexion regions, which are not uniformly represented on the kinematic sitting 3D body model, despite improved armature in the pelvic region. The study shows that average increases in waist, hip, thigh, and knee circumferences should be included in the process of basic clothing-pattern designs for SIT as minimal ease allowances, as should, in the future, armature designs that consider muscle and adipose tissues, to achieve realistic volumes for kinematic 3D body models in SIT.
A drawn PET filament sewing thread for the automotive industry was used for this research. This study concerned itself with the draw ratio’s influence regarding certain physical properties of the threads, the tensile properties during sewing and the mechanical properties after sewing in order to estimate the drawn thread’s sewing performance. An increase in the draw ratio caused a decrease in the linear density, and thread twist. In addition, the tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point were increased when drawing, whilst the breaking extension decreased. It was found that tensile fatigue and heat loading during the sewing process cause changes in the threads’ mechanical properties, depending on the draw ratio. The tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point had decreased after the sewing process, whilst the breaking extension decreased for those threads drawn at lower draw ratios, and increased for those drawn at higher draw ratios. The results show that those threads drawn at higher draw ratios displayed inappropriate sewing performance, resulting from inadequate elastic and surface characteristics.
16 August 2024 in Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products
A library of knowledge that contains a fabric database, 3D human body models database, and 3D garment database has been developed in the framework of the Erasmus+ project DigitalFashion – “Collaborative Online International Learning in Digital Fashion”, which is a collaboration of 6 European partners who would like to strengthen their working together through collaboration in online international teaching. The fabric database contains 49 physical textile fabrics, both woven and knitted fabrics. Each partner provided at least eight fabrics. The library contains also 3D human body models of different sizes (male, and female), and 48 pattern designs for women’s and men’s garments. The fabric’s physical and visual parameters have been determined using known textile standards, including their draping images taken using a Cusick Drape Tester. These fabric parameters have been used to predict the equivalent digital twin fabric based on Lectra digital fabrics, thereby completing the fabric database with their matching digital twin fabric. The digital twin fabrics have been used to simulate the 3D garments for the 3D garment database, based on the selected patterns and styles. To test the robustness of the fabric digitization process, a woman A-line skirt (real) was made by each partner using their fabric. These skirts were then compared with their simulated (virtual) skirts. The investigation has shown that the digital twin fabrics represent the real fabrics well. The virtual training library will support the specially developed training platform for virtual fashion design.
This work deals with the sustainable reconstruction of the uniform of the National Guard of Maribor from 1848/49 with the aim of developing the pattern design of the jacket and trousers of which it consists of and making a virtual replica of it. The original uniform of the Maribor National Guard, which can no longer be restored and/or conserved, is kept in the Maribor Regional Museum, Slovenia. The reconstruction of the pattern design of the jacket and trousers was based on historical sources, analyses, measurements and the decomposition of the uniform. The virtual reconstruction of the uniform pattern design was carried out using the Optitex PDS 3D V11 programme. The construction proportions of the uniform’s basic pattern design were analysed to determine the basic body dimensions of the wearer of the jacket and trousers and to create 3D body models of the wearers using the standard 3D body model of the software used. This made it possible to create an accurate “3D body model–clothing” system that realistically represents the virtual replica of the uniform. The results of this research help to preserve, understand and explore the cultural heritage of clothing in a sustainable way and make it accessible to the public.