A global expansion in public and private initiatives seeks to strengthen the link between traditional products and sustainable development by creating a niche in the market for these products. Relevant examples are the Geographical Indications and the Slow Food Presidia models. This paper compares both types of Origin Food Schemes (OFS) to disclose the main commonalities and differences in their institutionalization, and their complex outcomes on cultural biodiversity (CB), which is a major concern for the sustainability of rural communities. We used underpinning knowledge dynamics as an analytical lens through the cross-comparison of ethnographic findings collected in four case studies of origin cheeses located in France, Italy and Morocco. Our findings suggest that OFS have high potential to defend CB because of their collective and context-dependent approaches. We argue that knowledge and practices mobilized in OFS are the result of power relations and confrontations among local actors, and show how four identified tensions between different forms and types of knowledge differently shape food culture, food technique, perceptions, and representations. In conclusion, the institutional approaches, practices and knowledge dynamics compared in this analysis show six effective ways to link OFS and CB, facilitating the trajectory toward sustainable development.
1 January 2018 in Revue internationale des études du développement
Si, d’un point de vue théorique, les indications géographiques (IG) peuvent être considérées comme des biens de club ou des ressources communes, nous considérons que leur conception par les parties prenantes comme des ressources communes territoriales est un facteur clé de leur succès, via la coordination entre acteurs et l’articulation aux dynamiques territoriales que cela implique. À partir d’études de cas en Asie, Afrique et Amérique latine, nous montrons cependant la difficulté de l’instauration d’un mode de gestion approprié, du fait de la multiplicité des objectifs assignés aux IG, du possible désintérêt des acteurs si la valorisation de l’IG est jugée incertaine, et a contrario d’éventuelles appropriations par un groupe restreint si cette valorisation est avérée.
Résumé Notre article analyse comment les acteurs dans les États de Santa Catarina et Rio Grande do Sul au Brésil élaborent et mettent en œuvre des dispositifs de valorisation des spécialités locales. Dans le cadre de ces dispositifs la prise en compte de la diversité biologique et culturelle s’impose, au moins de façon indirecte. L’article repose sur l’étude de deux expériences de promotion par l’origine, la viande de bœuf produite dans les prairies de la Pampa Brésilienne (protégée par une indication géographique ou IG depuis 2006) et le vin élaboré dans la région d’Urussanga (demande d’IG en cours). Celles-ci s’inscrivent, au niveau brésilien, dans des débats sur les IG et sur la protection du patrimoine national.
Origin food schemes (OFS) aim to protect and promote a unique product resulting from a specific place and know‐how whose qualities are objectified in the product specifications. This paper explores the standardisation effects of OFS on the diversity of local practices and knowledge by analysing the emergence of the specifications of four origin cheeses recognised as Geographical Indications and Slow Food Presidia (Chefchaouen goat cheese in Morocco, Piacentinu Ennese in Italy, and Béarn mountain cheese and Ossau‐Iraty in France). Results confirm that specifications directly preserve some genetic resources, taste, and know‐how, whilst they also show that traditional production practices are taken into account differently, depending on negotiations among stakeholders during which opposing motives, strategies, and forms of knowledge may emerge. We argue that paradoxically this process results in adapting and reducing existing diversity, including in OFS that are more oriented towards localising practices and promoting a diversity of tastes.
This case study of the Mediterranean extra virgin olive oil value chain aims to contribute empirical evidence to incorporating the agrobiodiversity concept within mechanisms for value enhancement of origin products, within sustainable local value chains, via building a community around products. The tools and mechanisms for market competitiveness and product differentiation of quality origin products are illustrated, contributing to food systems’ transition towards sustainable development. Our analysis provides three stages of community building around the sustainable, local product: (1) The product positioning phase: all the activities chosen by the producer for the agricultural production, processing, and marketing for value enhancement; all the activities performed before the consumer encounters the product. (2) The consumer attraction phase: the moment when the consumer becomes familiarized with the product; the phase where the institutional capital plays an important role, as often the producers enter markets supported by different groups, networks, or institutions with which they partner. (3) Communities of value co-creation: the final stage of consumer engagement with the product. Communities of value connecting individuals through similar values of sustainability, agrobiodiversity, defending and respecting the environment, and tasty, nutritious food, are substantial components for the transition towards more sustainable origin food systems.