This paper presents the limitations and potential of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy applied to the study of cellulosic textile collections. The technique helps to differentiate natural fibres according to the content of lignin, pectin, hemicellulose, and wax, although some problematic issues should be considered. The spectral differences derived from the environmental humidity uptake and the plant composition are reviewed and discussed in the light of new experimental data. Diagnostic bands are proposed that can discriminate between different fibres from different plants. The contribution of ageing is also considered, demonstrating that sometimes aged fibres cannot be reliably recognised. In contrast, the potential of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy to discriminate between natural and modified fibres is discussed and proven. The best results were obtained when microinvasive ATR-FTIR spectroscopy was coupled with SEM observations. The proposed protocol was tested on microsamples of various cellulosic materials from traditional Japanese samurai armours dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries (Morigi Collection, Museo delle Culture, Lugano, Switzerland). The results facilitated a complete characterisation of the materials and demonstrated that the protocol can be used to study a wide variety of cellulosic materials, including both natural and man-modified fibres, and paper.

To correctly manage a collection of historical silks, it is important to detect if the yarn has been originally subjected to degumming. This process is generally applied to eliminate sericin; the obtained fiber is named soft silk, in contrast with hard silk which is unprocessed. The distinction between hard and soft silk gives both historical information and useful indications for informed conservation. With this aim, 32 samples of silk textiles from traditional Japanese samurai armors (15th–20th century) were characterized in a non-invasive way. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy has been previously used to detect hard silk, but data interpretation is challenging. To overcome this difficulty, an innovative analytical protocol based on external reflection FTIR (ER-FTIR) spectroscopy was employed, coupled with spectral deconvolution and multivariate data analysis. The ER-FTIR technique is rapid, portable, and widely employed in the cultural heritage field, but rarely applied to the study of textiles. The ER-FTIR band assignment for silk was discussed for the first time. Then, the evaluation of the OH stretching signals allowed for a reliable distinction between hard and soft silk. Such an innovative point of view, which exploits a “weakness” of FTIR spectroscopy—the strong absorption from water molecules—to indirectly obtain the results, can have industrial applications too.

Identifying the fibres in historical textiles presents a complex challenge due to the wide variety of plant, animal and early synthetic materials that have been used. Traditionally, this identification process involves sampling followed by either microscopic examination or ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. However, there are instances when sampling is restricted due to the good condition or significant value of the object under analysis. Additionally, the presence of leather components alongside textiles can further complicate the identification. This paper proposes a novel non-invasive method for fibre identification based on External Reflection (ER) FTIR spectroscopy, which has been rarely applied to textiles or leather. The current research demonstrates that ER-FTIR spectrum is a viable tool for fibre identification on both recent and historical textiles. The non-invasiveness of the analytical approach enables a comprehensive investigation without compromising the number or position of samples. Respect to ATR-FTIR spectra, the ER-FTIR spectra frequently exhibit an amplification of certain diagnostic bands, facilitating the identification of the various fibres examined in this study (cotton, hemp, viscose, silk, wool, leather, polyamide, acrylic, polyester). The extended spectral range (7500-375 cm^-1) which is provided by ER-FTIR spectrometry also contains extra bands in the near infrared region, which can provide key information for the discrimination due to the lack of distortion phenomena. The technique was applied to the characterisation of textile materials coming from a collection of 10 traditional Japanese samurai armours spanning from the 16th to the 20th century (Museo delle Culture, Lugano, Switzerland). For the first time, the results provided a comprehensive overview of the textiles utilized in Japanese armours across various historical periods. Overall, the appearance of materials in samurai armours reflects the evolution of armour-making techniques and the influence of socio-cultural factors throughout Japanese history. Synthetic and semi-synthetic materials were easily detected, revealing the occurrence of a past conservation treatment or the early adoption of modern man-made materials in the manufacturing of traditional armours. The approach outlined in this case study can be applied to textile collections of various kinds, offering a reliable mean to discern the yarn composition and detect non-original components. The method also appears as a valuable prescreening tool for designing a less intrusive yet more informative sampling strategy, should additional details about fibre type and dyeing be necessary.

The Japanese textile tradition is renowned for its intricate designs achieved through a variety of dyeing techniques, including kasuri, shibori, and paste-resist dyeing. These techniques are often combined within a single textile, resulting in exceptionally elaborate creations. Our paper delves into the technical aspects and complexities of these methods, highlighting the dynamic interplay between tradition and innovation in Japanese textile production. Our scientific endeavour focused on some textiles dating between the 19th and 20th centuries and belonging to the Montgomery Collection of Japanese folk art. Employing non-invasive techniques such as visible reflectance spectroscopy and ER-FTIR spectroscopy, we uncovered key insights into the materials and methods utilized in the creation of these textiles. Our analysis revealed a diverse array of pigments and dyes, including plant-derived, inorganic, and synthetic variants. These findings illuminate the cultural syncretism between traditional Japanese practices and the adoption of new materials from the West, underscoring the dynamic nature of textile production in Japan. Furthermore, ER-FTIR spectroscopy elucidated the predominant use of cotton as the primary fibre in the textiles, aligning with historical records of Japan’s role as a major producer of cotton yarn. Analysis of white areas within the textiles revealed evidence of resist-paste dyeing techniques, particularly tsutsugaki and katazome, through the absence of dye penetration and the characteristic appearance of white lines. Confirmation of indigo dyeing techniques (aizome) was achieved through ER-FTIR spectroscopy, providing reliable identification of indigo and Prussian blue in various shades of blue present in the textiles. Additionally, the detection of Western-derived dyeing method (utsushi-yūzen) and free-hand painting (kaki-e), offers insights into the diversity of dyeing practices employed by Japanese artisans. The presence of proteinaceous materials and synthetic dyes observed in some textiles has implications for conservation practices, suggesting the need for tailored approaches to ensure the preservation of these culturally significant artifacts. Overall, these scientific results shed new light on the materials, techniques, and cultural contexts underlying Japanese textile production, advancing our understanding of this rich artistic heritage and informing future research endeavours in textile science and conservation.

In the framework of an extensive survey campaign on a collection of Japanese samurai armors, metallic threads from different parts of the traditional equipment were studied by several analytical techniques. The collection of armors belongs to Museo delle Culture (Lugano, Switzerland) and it is composed of ten elements, which date back from the 15th to 20th century. Metallic threads under study come from six of ten elements of the collection and represent a complex and unique multimaterial, which shows specific characteristics in Japanese tradition (kinran). The multianalytical approach based on ATR-FTIR (Attenuated Total Reflection-Fourier Transform Infrared) spectroscopy and SEM-EDX (Scanning Electron Microscopy, Energy Dispersive X-Ray) analysis, together with a careful observation with optical and digital microscopy, permitted to obtain a complete characterization of materials, which have shown a great variability in metal foils and in organic adhesives (urushi, animal glue, starch). Gold and silver turned out to be not so largely used as scholars thought, while aluminum showed a great diffusion. Within the collection of analyzed armors, the obtained results allowed us for the first time to get a complete comprehension of materials and techniques used by Japanese craftsmen, and to observe differences in the quality of the materials and in manufacture technology over the centuries.