Despite climbing’s popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8–9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6–2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0–3.7 h & MD = 0.9–1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9–16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6–65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R² = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R² = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.

Purpose: To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF) and the energy store component W′ are applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions of the finger flexors of rock climbers, using a multisession test. As a secondary aim, the agreement of estimates of CF and W′ from a single-session test was also determined. The CF was defined as the slope coefficient, and W′ was the intercept of the linear relationship between total “isometric work” (W_lim) and time to exhaustion (T_lim). Methods: Subjects performed 3 (separated by either 20 min or >24 h) tests to failure using intermittent isometric finger-flexor contractions at 45%, 60%, and 80% of their maximum voluntary contraction. Results: Force plotted against T_lim displayed a hyperbolic relationship; correlation coefficients of the parameter estimates from the work–time CF model were consistently very high (R² > .94). Climbers’ mean CF was 425.7 (82.8) N (41.0% [6.2%] maximum voluntary contraction) and W′ was 30,882 (11,820) N·s. Good agreement was found between the single-session and multisession protocol for CF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC_3,1] = .900; 95% confidence interval, .616–.979), but not for W′ (ICC_3,1 = .768; 95% confidence interval, .190–.949). Conclusions: The results demonstrated the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of CF and W′, using equipment readily available in most climbing gyms. Although further work is still necessary, the test of CF described is of value for understanding exercise tolerance and to determine optimal training prescription to monitor improvements in the performance of the finger flexors.

Purpose: To identify physiological, psychological, and skill characteristics that explain performance in downhill (DH) mountainbike racing.Methods: Four studies were used to (1) identify factors potentially contributing to DH performance (using an expert focus group), (2) develop and validate a measure of rider skill (using video analysis and expert judge evaluation), (3) evaluate whether physiological, psychological, and skill variables contribute to performance at a DH competition, and (4) test the specific contribution of aerobic capacity to DH performance.Results: Study 1 identified aerobic capacity, handgrip endurance, anaerobic power, rider skill, and self-confidence as potentially important for DH. In study 2 the rider-skill measure displayed good interrater reliability. Study 3 found that rider skill and handgrip endurance were significantly related to DH ride time (β = –0.76 and –0.14, respectively; R² = .73), with exploratory analyses suggesting that DH ride time may also be influenced by self-confidence and aerobic capacity. Study 4 confirmed aerobic capacity as an important variable influencing DH performance (for a DH ride, mean oxygen uptake was 49 ± 5 mL · kg⁻¹ · min⁻¹, and 90% of the ride was completed above the 1st ventilatory threshold).Conclusions: In order of importance, rider skill, handgrip endurance, self-confidence, and aerobic capacity were identified as variables influencing DH performance. Practically, this study provides a novel assessment of rider skill that could be used by coaches to monitor training and identify talent. Novel intervention targets to enhance DH performance were also identified, including self-confidence and aerobic capacity.

Caffeine ingestion may influence balance control via numerous mechanisms. Although previously investigated using various study designs and methods, here we aimed to create the first evidence-based consensus regarding the effects of caffeine on the control of upright stance via systematic review (PROSPERO registration CRD42021226939). Embase, PubMed/MEDLINE, SPORTDiscus and Web of Science databases were searched on 27 January 2021 to identify placebo-controlled trials investigating caffeine-induced changes in human standing balance. Reference lists of eligible studies were also searched. Overall, nine studies involving a total of 290 participants were included. All studies were moderate to strong in quality according to the QualSyst tool. Balance-related outcome measures were collected across a range of different participant ages, stances and sensory conditions. The results show that younger participants’ balance was generally unaffected by caffeine ingestion. However, a significant balance impairment was observed following caffeine ingestion in all studies involving older participants (average age >65 years). Our results therefore suggest an age-dependent effect of caffeine ingestion on human standing. Further research into this effect is warranted as only one study has directly compared younger and older adults. Nonetheless, an important implication of our findings is that caffeine ingestion may increase fall risk in older adults. Furthermore, based on our findings, caffeine ingestion should be considered as a potential confounding factor when assessing human standing balance, particularly in older adults.

This chapter explores the integration of experiential learning and collaborative research projects in the teaching of research methods within Sport and Exercise Sciences (SES) disciplines. Traditional approaches often present research as a rigid, step-by-step process, which can lead to disengagement and a lack of meaningful application. In contrast, this chapter advocates for co-constructive learning, where students and educators engage as partners in the research process, fostering a deeper conceptual understanding of methodology and inquiry. Through a live, mixed-methods research project, students were actively involved in developing research questions, designing methodologies, collecting data, and conducting analyses. This hands-on engagement enhanced students’ confidence, problem-solving skills, and ability to connect theoretical knowledge with practical applications. It cultivated critical thinking, independent inquiry, and research resilience, key attributes for future academic and professional success. The chapter reflects on the benefits, challenges, and scalability of this approach, offering practical recommendations for educators seeking to implement inquiry-driven, collaborative learning experiences in research methods education. By adopting structured but flexible experiential strategies, educators can better prepare students for independent research, interdisciplinary collaboration, and real-world problem-solving in SES and beyond.