Many modalities of treatment for acquired skin hyperpigmentation are available including chemical agents or physical therapies, but none are completely satisfactory. Depigmenting compounds should act selectively on hyperactivated melanocytes, without short‐ or long‐term side‐effects, and induce a permanent removal of undesired pigment. Since 1961 hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, has been introduced and its therapeutic efficacy demonstrated, and other whitening agents specifically acting on tyrosinase by different mechanisms have been proposed. Compounds with depigmenting activity are now numerous and the classification of molecules, based on their mechanism of action, has become difficult. Systematic studies to assess both the efficacy and the safety of such molecules are necessary. Moreover, the evidence that bleaching compounds are fairly ineffective on dermal accumulation of melanin has prompted investigations on the effectiveness of physical therapies, such as lasers. This review which describes the different approaches to obtain depigmentation, suggests a classification of whitening molecules on the basis of the mechanism by which they interfere with melanogenesis, and confirms the necessity to apply standardized protocols to evaluate depigmenting treatments.

Summary: An overview of agents causing hypopigmentation in human skin is presented. The review is organized to put forward groups of biological and chemical agents. Their mechanisms of action cover (i) tyrosinase inhibition, maturation and enhancement of its degradation; (ii) Mitf inhibition; (iii) downregulation of MC1R activity; (iv) interference with melanosome maturation and transfer; (v) melanocyte loss, desquamation and chemical peeling. Tyrosinase inhibition is the most common approach to achieve skin hypopigmentation as this enzyme catalyses the rate‐limiting step of pigmentation. Despite the large number of tyrosinase inhibitors in vitro, only a few are able to induce effects in clinical trials. The gap between in‐vitro and in‐vivo studies suggests that innovative strategies are needed for validating their efficacy and safety. Successful treatments need the combination of two or more agents acting on different mechanisms to achieve a synergistic effect. In addition to tyrosinase inhibition, other parameters related to cytotoxicity, solubility, cutaneous absorption, penetration and stability of the agents should be considered. The screening test system is also very important as keratinocytes play an active role in modulating melanogenesis within melanocytes. Mammalian skin or at least keratinocytes/melanocytes co‐cultures should be preferred rather than pure melanocyte cultures or soluble tyrosinase.

Summary: Despite considerable advances in the past decade, melanin research still suffers from the lack of universally accepted and shared nomenclature, methodologies, and structural models. This paper stems from the joint efforts of chemists, biochemists, physicists, biologists, and physicians with recognized and consolidated expertise in the field of melanins and melanogenesis, who critically reviewed and experimentally revisited methods, standards, and protocols to provide for the first time a consensus set of recommended procedures to be adopted and shared by researchers involved in pigment cell research. The aim of the paper was to define an unprecedented frame of reference built on cutting‐edge knowledge and state‐of‐the‐art methodology, to enable reliable comparison of results among laboratories and new progress in the field based on standardized methods and shared information.