Platycladus orientalis is a traditional oriental herbal medicinal plant that is widely used as a component of complex prescriptions for alopecia treatment in Eastern Asia. The effect of PO on hair growth and its underlying mechanism, however, have not been demonstrated or clarified. In this study, we investigated the hair-growth-promoting effect of PO in cultured human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs). Platycladus orientalis leaf extract (POLE) was found to stimulate the proliferation of hDPCs. POLE with higher quercitrin concentration, especially, showed a high level of cellular viability. In the context of cellular senescence, POLE decreased the expression of p16 (CDKN2A) and p21(CDKN1A), which resulted in enhanced proliferation. In addition, growth factor receptors, FGFR1 and VEGFR2/3, and non-receptor tyrosine kinases, ACK1 and HCK, were significantly activated. In addition, LEF1, a transcription factor of Wnt/β-catenin signaling, was enhanced, but DKK1, an inhibitor of Wnt/β-catenin signaling, was downregulated by POLE treatment in cultured hDPCs. As a consequence, the expression of growth factors such as bFGF, KGF, and VEGF were also increased by POLE. We further investigated the hair-growth-promoting effect of topically administered POLE over a 12-week period. Our data suggest that POLE could support terminal hair growth by stimulating proliferation of DPCs and that enhanced production of growth factors, especially KGF, occurred as a result of tyrosine kinase ACK1 activation.

Retinol, one of the most powerful cosmetic materials for anti-aging supported by a solid scientific background, exhibits a wide range of type and severity of irritation while showing limited user compliance. The lack of understanding of the mechanism of retinol-induced irritation has been the main hurdle in the development of anti-irritation strategies. Here, we identified 30 genetic markers related to the susceptibility to retinol-induced irritation in the Korean population. Based on the genetic analysis, a novel formula against retinol-induced irritation was developed, which mitigated the molecular pathogenesis—as indicated by the genetic markers—of the retinol-induced irritation. In human tests, this formula effectively decreased retinol-induced irritation. Furthermore, a polygenic risk score model for irritation was constructed and validated. Our comprehensive approach for the analysis of retinol-induced irritation will not only aid the development of anti-irritation strategies to ensure higher user compliance but also contribute to improving the current knowledge about the biological effects of retinoids.

Skin aging is an unavoidable natural phenomenon caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In modern society, the pursuit of a wrinkle-free and aesthetically appealing face has gained considerable prominence. Numerous studies have aimed at mitigating the appearance of facial wrinkles. Antiaging research focused on regulating the function of mitochondria, the main reactive oxygen species-generating organelles, has been extensively conducted. In this study, we investigated the correlation between facial wrinkles and the expression of PPARGC1B, considering the association of this gene with mitochondrial function, to identify its potential as a target for exploring antiaging cosmetic materials. We elucidated the role of PPARGC1B in the skin and identified five bioactive materials that modulated its expression. The effectiveness of these materials was verified through in vitro experiments on human dermal fibroblasts. We prepared cosmetic formulations incorporating the five materials and confirmed their ability to enhance dermal collagen in three-dimensional skin models and reduce facial wrinkles under the eyes and nasolabial fold areas in human subjects. The study findings have significant implications for developing novel antiaging cosmetic formulations by reinforcing mitochondrial functions.

Skin aging is a complex process with internal and external factors. Recent studies have suggested that enlargement and elongation of skin pores may be early signs of aging in addition to wrinkles and loss of elasticity. This study explores the potential of targeting the SGPP2 gene in keratinocytes to address these emerging concerns. Using siRNA knockdown, we demonstrated that SGPP2 modulates the production of inflammatory cytokines (interleukin (IL)-1β and IL-8). Furthermore, conditioned media experiments revealed that keratinocytes with high SGPP2 expression indirectly influence fibroblast extracellular matrix remodeling, potentially contributing to enlarged pores and wrinkle formation. Based on these findings, we explored a complex formulation containing four SGPP2-modulating compounds. In vitro and in vivo experiments demonstrated the efficacy of the formulation in mitigating fine wrinkles and pore enlargement. This study highlights the significant implications of developing a more effective antiaging cosmetic formulation by targeting underlying inflammatory processes that drive skin aging.