Skin penetration/permeation enhancers are compounds that improve (trans)dermal drug delivery. We designed hybrid terpene-amino acid enhancers by conjugating natural terpenes (citronellol, geraniol, nerol, farnesol, linalool, perillyl alcohol, menthol, borneol, carveol) or cinnamyl alcohol with 6-(dimethylamino)hexanoic acid through a biodegradable ester linker. The compounds were screened for their ability to increase the delivery of theophylline and hydrocortisone through and into human skin ex vivo. The citronellyl, bornyl and cinnamyl esters showed exceptional permeation-enhancing properties (enhancement ratios up to 82) while having low cellular toxicities. The barrier function of enhancer-treated skin (assessed by transepidermal water loss and electrical impedance) recovered within 24 h. Infrared spectroscopy suggested that these esters fluidized the stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore, the citronellyl ester increased the epidermal concentration of topically applied cidofovir, which is a potent antiviral and anticancer drug, by 15-fold. In conclusion, citronellyl 6-(dimethylamino)hexanoate is an outstanding enhancer with an advantageous combination of properties, which may improve the delivery of drugs that have a limited ability to cross biological barriers.

Gentiana lutea is a bitter herb that is traditionally used to improve gastric disorders. Recently, we have shown that Gentiana lutea extract (GE) also modulates the lipid metabolism of human keratinocytes in vitro and in vivo. In the present study, we investigated the role of GE on ceramide synthesis in human primary keratinocytes (HPKs) and psoriasis-like keratinocytes. We could demonstrate that GE increased the concentrations of glucosylceramides and the ceramide AS/AdS subclass without affecting the overall ceramide content in HPKs. The expression of ceramide synthase 3 (CERS3) and elongases (ELOVL1 and 4) was reduced in psoriasis lesions compared to healthy skin. Psoriasis-like HPKs, generated by stimulating HPKs with cytokines that are involved in the pathogenesis of psoriasis (IL-17, TNF-α, IL-22 and IFN-γ) showed increased levels of IL-6, IL-8 and increased expression of DEFB4A, as well as decreased expression of ELOVL4. The treatment with GE partly rescued the reduced expression of ELOVL4 in psoriasis-like HPKs and augmented CERS3 expression. This study has shown that GE modulates ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Therefore, GE might be a novel topical treatment for skin diseases with an altered lipid composition such as psoriasis.