Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV) can induce oxidative stress through the over-production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) on the skin. Myricetin (MYR), a natural flavonoid compound, significantly inhibited UV-induced keratinocyte damage; however, its bioavailability is limited by its poor water solubility and inefficient skin penetration ability, which subsequently influences its biological activity. The purpose of the study was to develop a myricetin nanofibers (MyNF) system of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HPBCD)/polyvinylpyrrolidone K120 (PVP)-loaded with MYR that would enhance the water solubility and skin penetration by changing the physicochemical characteristics of MYR, including reducing the particle size, increasing the specific surface area, and amorphous transformation. The results also revealed that the MyNF can reduce cytotoxicity in HaCaT keratinocytes when compared with MYR; additionally, MyNF had better antioxidant and photoprotective activity than raw MYR for the UVB-induced HaCaT keratinocytes damage model due to the MyNF increased water solubility and permeability. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that MyNF is a safe, photostable, and thermostable topical ingredient of antioxidant nanofibers to enhance the skin penetration of MYR and prevent UVB-induced skin damage.

Recently, a global market for anti-aging skin care using botanicals has been noticeably developing. Morin, 3,5,7,2′,4′-pentahydroxyflavone, is a polyphenol with many pharmacological properties including antioxidant, anti-inflammation and photoprotection. However, poor aqueous solubility of morin restricts its application in pharmaceuticals. The present study aimed to encapsulate morin into liposomal vesicles to improve its water solubility and skin penetration, and further investigated its ROS inhibition and anti-aging activity in HaCaT keratinocytes induced by particulate matters (PMs). Our data presented that morin was a strong DPPH^• radical scavenger. Morin displayed a remarkable ROS inhibitory ability and protected keratinocytes against PMs by downregulating matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression via suppressing p-ERK and p-p38 in the MAPK pathway. Moreover, water solubility of liposomal morin (LM) prepared by the thin film hydration method was significantly better than free form of morin due to particle size reduction of LM. Our results also demonstrated that deformable liposomal vesicles were achieved for increasing dermal absorption. Additionally, LM (morin:lecinolws-50:tween-80:PF-68, 1:2.5:2.5:5) was able to effectively reduce generation of ROS, inactivate p-ERK, p-p38 and MMP-1 in HaCaT cells exposed to PM. In conclusion, our findings suggested that LM would be a bright candidate for various topical anti-aging and anti-pollution products.

Woman’s breast cancer has always been among the top ten causes of cancer death, and nearly 2% to 5% of locally advanced breast cancers develop a fungating breast wound. Fungal breast cancer leads to skin ulcers, wound ruptures, and other bacterial infections in patients. Ursolic acid (UA), a natural pentacyclic triterpene compound, is widely distributed in many fruits. Previous studies demonstrated that UA has anti-breast cancer, antifungal, and improved wound-healing effects. UA, however, had poor water solubility and low bioavailability, restricting its clinical application. Nanofibers have the advantages of rapid dissolution, improved stability, and bioavailability of active ingredients. We had successfully prepared ursolic acid nanofibers (UANFs) and effectively improved their water solubility and skin penetration. UANFs can increase water solubility by improving the physicochemical properties, including increased surface area, intermolecular bonding with excipients, and amorphous transformation. Furthermore, UANFs had better anti-breast cancer activity than raw UA. UANFs inhibited the expression of phospho-signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 (STAT3) and phospho-extracellular regulated protein kinases (ERK)1/2, and induced cleaved caspase-3 protein expression, but had no effect on the raw UA treatment. In summary, UANFs enhanced the skin absorption of UA and improved its anti-breast cancer efficacy. We expect that UANFs can be used as an anti-breast cancer treatment and reduce the discomfort of breast cancer patients during dressing changes, but more detailed efficacy and safety trials still need to be conducted in further studies.

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl tripeptide-1 and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract as the main ingredients, as a natural intervention for hair growth. Results from the in vitro study demonstrates that BRS not only increased human hair dermal papilla cell (HHDPC) cell proliferation, but also reduced reactive oxygen species generation and 5α-reductase expression when compared to the control group, with BRS showing similar effect to the positive control, minoxidil. In addition, a 90-day clinical trial with 40 participants (KMUHIRB-F(I)-20230125; approval date: 18 August 2023) was conducted to assess the effectiveness and safety of BRS. The results revealed that BRS can improve hair density and quality in both men and women participants, with a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in women (p < 0.05). Moreover, there were no adverse effects on blood parameters or scalp irritation reported after BRS treatment. In conclusion, we suggest that BRS offers a safe and effective solution for improving hair follicle health and is suitable for long-term use.

Various whitening cosmetics are available in the market, usually containing active whitening ingredients. However, most of the reported active ingredients have low dermal penetration due to their lipophilic structure. Therefore, it is necessary to develop effective whitening agents and novel formulations to address this. In previous studies, natural compounds such as chalcones have shown inhibitory effects on tyrosinase. However, most chalcone compounds have the disadvantage of poor water solubility, which restricts their dermal absorption. Flavokawain C (FKC) is a natural chalcone obtained from the root of the kava tree (Piper methysticum) and can also be obtained through organic synthesis. Since FKC is a chalcone, it is also water-insoluble, showing poor dermal absorption. In this study, electrospinning technology was used to develop FKC nanofibers (FKCNFs) to improve FKC’s physicochemical properties. The results showed that FKCNFs significantly improved water solubility and percutaneous absorption. Based on the results of in vitro experiments with B16F10 melanoma cells, 10 µM FKCNFs repressed the expressions of melanogenesis-related proteins MITF and TRP2. Furthermore, cosmetic safety assessment revealed that FKCNFs displayed a good margin of safety. This study suggests that FKCNFs have great potential as an effective active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.