Excess production of melanin or its abnormal distribution, or both, can cause irregular hyperpigmentation of the skin, leading to melasma and age spots. To date, various quasi-drugs that prevent or improve hyperpigmentary disorders have been developed and officially approved by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare of Japan. Many of these inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme required for melanin synthesis, for example, by competitive or non-competitive inhibition of its catalytic activity, by inhibiting its maturation, or by accelerating its degradation. In this review, we categorize the quasi-drugs developed in Japan to prevent or treat hyperpigmentary disorders, or both, and discuss perspectives for future development.

Pigmentation of the skin, hair and eyes is regulated by tyrosinase, the critical rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis by melanocytes. Tyrosinase is degraded endogenously, at least in part, by the ubiquitin proteasome system (UPS). Several types of inherited hypopigmentary diseases, such as oculocutaneous albinism and Hermansky-Pudlak syndrome, involve the aberrant processing and/or trafficking of tyrosinase and its subsequent degradation which can occur due to the quality-control machinery. Studies on carbohydrate modifications have revealed that tyrosinase in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) is proteolyzed via ER-associated protein degradation and that tyrosinase degradation can also occur following its complete maturation in the Golgi. Among intrinsic factors that regulate the UPS, fatty acids have been shown to modulate tyrosinase degradation in contrasting manners through increased or decreased amounts of ubiquitinated tyrosinase that leads to its accelerated or decelerated degradation by proteasomes.

To investigate environmental factors that contribute to ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced oxidative stress, which accelerates the senescence and toxicity of skin cells, we irradiated human fibroblasts cultured in commonly used essential media with UVA and evaluated their viability and production of reactive oxygen species. The viability of fibroblasts exposed to a single dose of 3.6 J/cm² UVA was not reduced when cultured in Hanks balanced salt solution, but it was significantly decreased when cultured in Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium (DMEM), which contains various amino acids and vitamins. Furthermore, cell viability was not reduced when fibroblasts were cultured in DMEM and treated with a hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) scavenger such as glutathione or catalase added after UVA irradiation. In addition, we confirmed that the production of H₂O₂ was dramatically increased by UVA photosensitization when riboflavin (R) coexisted with amino acids such as tryptophan (T), and found that R with folic acid (F) produced high levels of H₂O₂ after UVA irradiation. Furthermore, we noticed that R and F or R and T have different photosensitization mechanisms since NaN₃, which is a singlet oxygen quencher, suppressed only R and T photosensitization. Lastly, we examined the effects of antioxidants (L-ascorbic acid, trolox, L-cysteine, and L-histidine), which are singlet oxygen or superoxide or H₂O₂ scavengers, on R and F or on R and T photosensitization, and found that 1 mM ascorbic acid, Trolox, and L-histidine were strongly photosensitized with R, and produced significant levels of H₂O₂ during UVA exposure. However, 1 mM L-cysteine dramatically suppressed H₂O₂ production by UVA photosensitization. These data suggest that a low concentration of R-derived photosensitization is elicited by different mechanisms depending on the coexisting vitamins and amino acids, and regulates cellular oxidative stress by producing H₂O₂ during UVA exposure.

Pigmentation in the dermis is known to be caused by melanophages, defined as melanosome-laden macrophages. In this study, we show that dermal fibroblasts also have an ability to uptake melanosomes and apoptotic melanocytes. We have previously demonstrated that normal human melanocytes constantly secrete melanosome clusters from various sites of their dendrites. After adding secreted melanosome clusters collected from the culture medium of melanocytes, time-lapse imaging showed that fibroblasts actively attached to the secreted melanosome clusters and incorporated them. Annexin V staining revealed that phosphatidylserine (PtdSer), which is known as an ‘eat-me’ signal that triggers the internalization of apoptotic cells by macrophages, is exposed on the surface of secreted melanosome clusters. Dermal fibroblasts were able to uptake secreted melanosome clusters as did macrophages, and those fibroblasts express TIM4, a receptor for PtdSer-mediated endocytosis. Further, co-cultures of fibroblasts and melanocytes demonstrated that dermal fibroblasts internalize PtdSer-exposed apoptotic melanocytes. These results suggest that not only macrophages, but also dermal fibroblasts contribute to the collection of potentially toxic substances in the dermis, such as secreted melanosome clusters and apoptotic melanocytes, that have been occasionally observed to drop down into the dermis from the epidermis.

Background: We studied the mechanism by which fermented milk ameliorates UV-B-induced skin damage and determined the active components in milk fermented with lactic acid bacteria by evaluating erythema formation, dryness, epidermal proliferation, DNA damage and cytokine mRNA levels in hairless mice exposed to acute UV-B irradiation. Methods: Nine week-old hairless mice were given fermented milk (1.3 g/kg BW/day) or exopolysaccharide (EPS) concentrate (70 mg/kg BW/day) orally for ten days. Seven days after fermented milk or EPS administration began, the dorsal skin of the mice was exposed to a single dose of UV-B (20 mJ/cm²). Results: Ingestion of either fermented milk or EPS significantly attenuated UV-B-induced erythema formation, dryness and epidermal proliferation in mouse skin. Both fermented milk and EPS were associated with a significant decrease in cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and upregulated mRNA levels of xeroderma pigmentosum complementation group A (XPA), which is involved in DNA repair. Furthermore, administration of either fermented milk or EPS significantly suppressed increases in the ratio of interleukin (IL)-10/IL-12a and IL-10/interferon-gamma mRNA levels. Conclusion: Together, these results indicate that EPS isolated from milk fermented with lactic acid bacteria enhanced DNA repair mechanisms and modulated skin immunity to protect skin against UV damage.