It is interesting to note that some of the most lucrative commercial products available today are derived from plant cell cultures. Apple, grape, ginger, rice, and other plant stem cells have been successfully and extensively utilized in cosmetic preparations all over the world. The advantages of plant cell suspensions over field-grown complete plants, which exhibit developmental stages of growth, plant age, and organ-specific differences, include sustainability, lack of pesticide residues, and independence from climate fluctuations. The procedure of extracting and purifying physiologically active compounds from plant cell cultures is significantly streamlined because of the possibility that these chemicals may be released into the intercellular gaps or wasted media through the cell walls and membrane. Upon downstream processing from the cells, the released chemicals exhibit minimal losses and a high degree of purity. Overall, the practical interest is in creating high-quality, sustainable, and innovative skincare solutions that meet both consumer needs and environmental concerns while driving the cosmetic industry toward more advanced biotechnological approaches. Our review intends to show the advantages of plant stem cells in cosmetic preparations.
The European Society for Laser Dermatology (ELSD) has established recommendations for safe and effective photo epilation; however, short-term common adverse effects occur as a result of laser treatment, such as edema and perifollicular erythema. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation also appears in certain skin types. Very few clinical studies have been conducted on the topical application of cosmetic skin care products aimed at decreasing the adverse effects on the skin epidermis following laser-assisted epilation procedures. Stem cells are found in plant and animal organisms and are responsible for the growth and restoration of damaged tissues. Plant stem cells divide throughout the life of the plant, creating new plant parts. Our aim was to develop a new cosmetic cream to decrease the intensity of some of the side effects of laser epilation and thus reduce the administration of topical medication. We developed a formulation with the active substance Olea europaea (Olive) Callus Culture Lysate (OLEA VITAE™ 02), which is derived from plant stem cells of the Mediterranean wild variety of Olea europaea, for application following laser epilation with an Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser. The new skin care cream was tested for its physicochemical and microbiological stability, according to the European Pharmacopoeia. The impacts of this substance on the potential side effects of Nd:YAG 1064 nm application, i.e., trans-epidermal water loss, keratin hydration, melanin, erythema, and skin elasticity, in comparison with the appropriate placebo, were investigated using biophysical measurements and a self-assessment questionnaire. Skin biopsies were also performed to evaluate the influence of the procedure and the application of the products on the epidermis and papillary dermis thickness. According to our findings, the incorporation of the plant stem cell extract of Olea europaea into our cream resulted in a stable cream with an appealing texture. Furthermore, the activity of erythema and hyperpigmentation was decreased when the cream was applied after Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser epilation.
2 April 2025 in Journal of Liquid Chromatography & Related Technologies
Background: Age-related deterioration of skin biomechanical properties is characterized by reduced elasticity, increased viscoelasticity, and the appearance of fine lines. Plant-derived bioactive compounds have attracted considerable interest as topical anti-ageing agents due to their antioxidant and skin-protective properties. Objective: To evaluate the effects of a topical formulation containing 2% (w/w) Olea europaea (Olive) Callus Culture Lysate (OLEA cream), alone or combined with 2% (w/w) Polyphenolic Complex (Propyl Gallate, Gallyl Glucoside, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside), on skin elasticity, viscoelasticity, and skin surface fine lines in healthy volunteers using non-invasive biophysical measurements. Methods: Volunteers were randomly allocated to receive Placebo cream, OLEA cream (2% w/w), or OLEA cream + Polyphenolic complex cream (2% w/w + 2% w/w). Skin biomechanical properties were assessed at baseline, Day 30, and Day 60 using a Cutometer. The R2 (overall elasticity), R6 (viscoelasticity), and SEw (skin surface fine-line) indices were evaluated. Changes over time and between treatment groups were analyzed using repeated-measures statistical models, with significance set at p < 0.05. Results: Both active formulations produced significant improvements in selected skin biomechanical and surface parameters compared with baseline and Placebo. Skin elasticity (R2) significantly improved after 30 days of treatment and remained improved at Day 60 in both active groups. A significant reduction in viscoelasticity (R6) was observed, particularly in the OLEA + Polyphenolic complex cream group, while percentage-change analysis demonstrated greater improvement with both active formulations than with placebo at Day 60. The skin surface fine-line index (SEw) was also significantly reduced following treatment with both active formulations compared with baseline and Placebo. No statistically significant differences were observed between OLEA cream and OLEA + Polyphenolic complex cream for any of the evaluated parameters. Conclusions: Topical application of OLEA cream (2% w/w), alone or in combination with Polyphenolic complex (2% w/w), improved selected biomechanical properties of the skin and reduced the appearance of fine lines over 60 days. The absence of significant differences between the two active formulations suggests that, under the conditions of this study, the addition of Polyphenolic complex did not provide a measurable additional benefit.