Our skin is an organ with the largest contact area between the human body and the external environment. Skin aging is affected directly by both endogenous factors and exogenous factors (e.g., UV exposure). Skin saccharification, a non-enzymatic reaction between proteins, e.g., dermal collagen and naturally occurring reducing sugars, is one of the basic root causes of endogenous skin aging. During the reaction, a series of complicated glycation products produced at different reaction stages and pathways are usually collectively referred to as advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs cause cellular dysfunction through the modification of intracellular molecules and accumulate in tissues with aging. AGEs are also associated with a variety of age-related diseases, such as diabetes, cardiovascular disease, renal failure (uremia), and Alzheimer’s disease. AGEs accumulate in the skin with age and are amplified through exogenous factors, e.g., ultraviolet radiation, resulting in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dull yellowing, and other skin problems. This article focuses on the damage mechanism of glucose and its glycation products on the skin by summarizing the biochemical characteristics, compositions, as well as processes of the production and elimination of AGEs. One of the important parts of this article would be to summarize the current AGEs inhibitors to gain insight into the anti-glycation mechanism of the skin and the development of promising natural products with anti-glycation effects.

Skin microecology involves a dynamic equilibrium among the host, microbiome, and internal/external environments. This equilibrium, shaped by multifactorial interactions, reflects individual specificity and diversity. Creating a replicable in vitro skin microecological model is highly challenging. Here, we introduce a mimicked stratum corneum microecology model (SCmic). It uses light cured crosslinked hydrogels as a scaffold and moisture source, and nonviable epidermal cells as the main nutrient. This setup establishes a suitable, stable, and reproducible microecology for microbiome colonization. Notably, it replicates the normal/oily skin microbiota with no significant differences from the original native microbiota at the genus level. Simultaneously, we have developed a standardized human skin microbiota model (Hcm), featuring seven dominant strains that form a representative microbial community. The models provide highly convenient approaches for exploring the intricate mutual interactions among skin microecology, influence of microbiota on skin health, and metabolism of chemical substances by microbiota.

Pearl powder is a famous traditional Chinese medicine that has a long history in treating palpitations, insomnia, convulsions, epilepsy, ulcers, and skin lightining. Recently, several studies have demonstrated the effects of pearl extracts on protection of ultraviolet A (UVA) induced irritation on human skin fibroblasts and inhibition of melanin genesis on B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. To further explore the effect we focused on the whitening efficacy of pearl hydrolyzed conchiolin protein (HCP) on human melanoma MNT-1 cells under the irritation of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) or endothelin 1 (ET-1) to evaluate the intracellular tyrosinase and melanin contents, as well as the expression levels of tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT) genes and related proteins. We found that HCP could decrease the intracellular melanin content by reducing the activity of intracellular tyrosinase and inhibiting the expression of TYR, TRP-1, DCT genes and proteins. At the same time, the effect of HCP on melanosome transfer effect was also investigated in the co-culture system of immortalized human keratinocyte HaCaT cells with MNT-1. The result indicated that HCP could promote the transfer of melanosomes in MNT-1 melanocytes to HaCaT cells, which might accelerate the skin whitening process by quickly transferring and metabolizing melanosomes during keratinocyte differentiation. Further study is needed to explore the mechanism of melanosome transfer with depigmentation.

Glycation is a process in which reducing sugars bind to proteins, resulting in the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). These AGEs accumulate in the skin, promote excessive collagen crosslinking, and disrupt the extracellular matrix (ECM), impairing normal cellular functions and contributing to skin aging. To evaluate the anti-glycation efficacy of lotus stamen extract (LSE), we employed the BSA–fructose system and a high glucose (HG)-induced fibroblast glycation model. The results demonstrated that LSE effectively inhibited cellular glycation and also exhibited anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, and anti-senescent effects in HG-induced human skin fibroblasts (HSF). Further investigation into the anti-glycation mechanism and component analysis of the lotus stamen ethyl acetate extract (LSEE) led to the identification of 15 flavonoids. The anti-glycation results indicated that these flavonoids are likely the primary active constituents in LSE. Mechanistic studies revealed that GLO1 plays a crucial role in cellular resistance to glycation, and LSEE enhanced GLO1 expression through the Nrf2/Keap1 pro-survival pathway, thereby mitigating intracellular AGE production. In summary, LSEE and its multiple flavonoid components exhibit potent intracellular anti-glycation activity and present significant potential to be developed as a natural and organic product for cosmetic and healthcare applications.