Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products containing biologically active ingredients purporting to offer a pharmaceutical therapeutic benefit. The active ingredients can be extracted and purified from natural sources (botanicals, herbal extracts, or animals) but can also be obtained biotechnologically by fermentation and cell cultures or by enzymatic synthesis and modification of natural compounds. A cosmeceutical ingredient should possess an attractive property such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin whitening, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling, or photoprotective activity, among others. During the past years, there has been an increased interest on the enzymatic synthesis of bioactive esters and glycosides based on (trans)esterification, (trans)glycosylation, or oxidation reactions. Natural bioactive compounds with exceptional theurapeutic properties and low toxicity may offer a new insight into the design and development of potent and beneficial cosmetics. This review gives an overview of the enzymatic modifications which are performed currently for the synthesis of products with attractive properties for the cosmeceutical industry.

In recent years, natural deep eutectic solvents (NADESs) have gained increasing attention as promising nontoxic solvents for biotechnological applications, due to their compatibility with enzymes and ability to enhance their activity. Betaine-based NADESs at a concentration of 25 wt % in a buffered aqueous solution were used as media to inhibit thermal inactivation of POXA1b laccase and its five variants when incubated at 70 and 90 °C. All the tested laccases showed higher residual activity when incubated in NADES solutions, with a further enhancement achieved also for the most thermostable variant. Furthermore, the residual activity of laccases in the presence of NADESs showed a clear advantage over the use of NADESs’ individual components. Molecular docking simulations were performed to understand the role of NADESs in the stabilization of laccases toward thermal inactivation, evaluating the interaction between each enzyme and NADESs’ individual components. A correlation within the binding energies between laccases and NADES components and the stabilization of the enzymes was demonstrated. These findings establish the possibility of preincubating enzymes in NADESs as a facile and cost-effective solution to inhibit thermal inactivation of enzymes when exposed to high temperatures. This computer-aided approach can assist the tailoring of NADES composition for every enzyme of interest.

We report a method of glycosylated enzyme immobilisation and stabilisation based on the formation of boronate esters between a surface-attached boronate and the enzyme glycans, followed by the growth of an organosilica layer of controlled thickness.