Background: The topical use of vitamin C has been explored for many decades due to its antioxidant potential, whitening action, and the essential role it plays in the synthesis and maintenance of collagen. As Ascorbic Acid (AA) is unstable, derivative molecules and stabilization strategies have been explored to facilitate its incorporation into dermatological products. Even though these molecules are already for sale, there is still a shortage of scientific data regarding efficacy studies of these assets, especially in vivo. Objective: The purpose of this review was to investigate and discuss issues regarding the topical application of vitamin C and its most common derivatives, including the difficulties, biases, and prospects for future clinical studies to better elucidate its effects. Methods: A literature review was carried out to select studies that evaluated the topical use of ascorbic acid and/or its derivatives. The studies which are “fully available”, “in vivo” and “in vitro”, were used as inclusion criteria. Results: Due to the instability of Ascorbic Acid, it is essential to study derivative molecules that maintain or even improve their effectiveness in dermatological products. Despite this, the studies of these derivatives presented in the scientific literature are mostly in vitro. In recent years, it has been possible to observe an increase in in vivo efficacy tests, and this trend is expected to continue in the future. However, they present very different approaches and issues. Conclusion: Studies of stability, safety, adverse reactions, and especially in vivo efficacy studies with a relevant number of subjects and standardized parameters are essential for better elucidating the effects of the topical application of vitamin C derivatives in comparison to ascorbic acid formulations for the skin.

One of the most important characteristics of aging skin is dehydration, which is why the use of moisturizing products is very important, especially with increasing age. Thus, the user’s experience when using a product is interesting for the companies to develop specific cosmetics not only considering the physiological needs of each skin, but also according to the preference of a group if there is any. For this, a moisturizer was developed, containing an antioxidant active, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, whose sensory characteristics were evaluated by 33 Brazilian women between 30 and 60 years old. The results showed that the formulation was well accepted by all subjects, regardless of their age group, initial hydration, or the presence of visible signs of skin aging. It is suggested that the presence of the active ingredient in different concentrations caused a different perception of the formula for specific attributes such as the aqueous residue, film formation, and the feelings of oiliness and stickiness to the skin after application. These results suggest that the perception of the sensory characteristics of the product was more related to the nature and proportion of the compounds than to the age of the subjects.

Article: Methods for skin image analysis and their applications in dermatology and cosmetic research: a comprehensive review - Italian Journal of Dermatology and Venereology 2024 Feb 20 - Minerva Medica - Journals

Facial aging involves natural processes such as bone resorption, subcutaneous volume loss, ligament laxity, and skin flaccidity. Currently, many aesthetic treatments are used to attenuate or delay the signs of facial aging, including facial exercises. They intend to improve skin elasticity, muscle tone, collagen production, and add (or reduce) volume of specific regions of the face. This study evaluated the effectiveness of a cosmetic formulation with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and synthetic tripeptide, combined with facial muscle exercises, in 43 healthy women aged between 30 and 65 years old. Participants were randomized into 3 groups: cosmetic formulation, cosmetic formulation + facial exercises, and facial exercises only. Instrumental measurements and self-assessment questionnaires were used to evaluate skin parameters. Significant improvement in skin firmness and elasticity were observed and attributed to the use of the cosmetic formulation. Additionally, participants noticed qualitative improvements in the appearance of their overall skin and wrinkles. High satisfaction scores were recorded for the facial exercise device and the formulation applied in the study. In conclusion, the cosmetic formulation had a positive impact on skin health, and the association of facial exercises, within time and conditions of this study, did not significantly increase the results caused by the formulation.