The 'organic' label guarantees a production process that avoids the use of synthetic fertilisers, pesticides and hormones and minimises the use of veterinary drugs; however, consumers are demanding guarantees regarding food quality. This article reviews the current state of knowledge on the quality of organic animal products, including the authentication of their organic origin. Quality has been considered as an integrative combination of six core attributes: commercial value, and nutritional, sensory, technological, convenience and safety attributes. The comparison of these attributes between organic and conventional animal products shows high heterogeneity due to variability in farming pratices in both organic and conventional systems. To overcome this, we pinpoint the farming practices underlying the differences observed. This enables light to be shed on the consequences of possible trajectories of organic farming, if specifications are relaxed or tightened up on commitments concerning farming practices that impact product quality. Two recent meta-analyses showed better nutritional attributes in organic milk and meat linked to their higher poly-unsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) content, particularly n-3 PUFAs. Regarding safety, we point to a lack of integrated studies quantifying the balance between positive and negative effects. Organic farming reduces the risk of drug residues and antibiotic resistance, but both outdoor rearing and a frequently longer rearing period increase the animals' exposition to environmental contaminants and the risk of their bioaccumulation in milk, eggs, meat and fish flesh. We highlight antagonisms between quality attributes for certain animal products (lamb, pork). In general, attributes are more variable for organic products, which can be explained by lower genetic selection (poultry), lower inputs and/or greater variability in farming conditions. However, the literature does not address the implications of this greater variability for the consumers' acceptability and the necessary adaptation of manufacturing processes. Further research is needed to document the impacts on human nutritional biomarkers and health. Methods used to authenticate organic origin are based on differences in animal diet composition between organic and conventional systems, but their reliability is hampered by the variability in farming practices.

In European countries, silage-free feeding is an ancient tradition and has a particularly positive reputation among consumers. In the present study, we compared grass-based forages from the same plot conserved as hay or silage or fed fresh either on pasture or indoors, and we evaluated the differences in sensory properties of milk and uncooked pressed cheese. All herbage from the first cut of a grassland dominated by perennial ryegrass was harvested on the same day and preserved either as hay or silage. The first regrowth of the same plot was used for strip grazing or green feeding indoors. Balanced by breed, 24 Montbéliarde and 24 Holstein cows were allocated to the 4 treatments. Apart from the forages, the late-lactation cows received 3 kg/d of dry matter from concentrate. After 2 wk of dietary adaptation, the bulk milk of 3 subgroups, each with 4 cows, was collected. Part of the milk was pasteurized, and part was left raw and partly transformed to small-sized Cantal-type cheese ripened for 9 wk. Milk and cheese underwent descriptive sensory analysis by a trained sensory panel, as well as analyses of physicochemical traits. Volatile organic compounds of the cheeses were also analyzed. Raw and pasteurized milk from hay-fed cows had less intense odors of cooked milk, cream, and barnyard than milk from grazing cows, whereby the effect of pasteurization did not differ between herbage utilization methods. Cheeses obtained from cows fed fresh herbage (grazing and indoors) were clearly yellower than cheeses from silage- and hay-fed cows, which coincided with the color intensity perceived by the panelists. Moreover, cheeses from cows fed fresh herbage had more intense barnyard and dry fruit flavors, were perceived as creamier and having less lactic odor, and exhibited more fat exudation than those from cows fed conserved herbage. Only a few differences were observed in milk and cheeses from hay-fed compared with silage-fed cows, and those differences were far less pronounced than those of milk and cheeses from cows fed fresh herbage. In conclusion, the present study did not substantiate assumptions of clear sensory differences of milk and uncooked pressed cheese from hay-fed compared with silage-fed cows. For the first time, this study reports that the global flavor intensity of cheeses from indoor green-fed cows is similar to that of cheeses derived from cows fed conserved forages, whereas cheeses from grazing cows have the greatest global flavor intensity.

The aims of this work were to determine the effect of upland origin on milk composition when comparing similar lowland and upland production system and to highlight the factors responsible for the added value of upland milk from commercial farms. Tanker milk from 55 groups of farms (264 farms in total) in France, Slovakia, and Slovenia was collected twice during the indoor season and 3 times during the outdoor season. The tanker rounds were selected in each country to be balanced according to their origin (lowland or upland) and within upland or lowland groups, according to the forage systems: corn-based or grass-based forage system. At each milk sampling, the production conditions were recorded through on-farm surveys. The milk was analyzed for gross composition, carotenoids, minerals, fatty acids, phenolic compound derivatives, volatile organic compound concentrations, and color. The milk from upland and lowland areas differed in their contents of a few constituents. Upland milk was richer in not identified (n.i.) retention time (Rt) 13,59, 4-methylpentylbenzene, 1-methyl-2-n-hexylbenzene, and β-caryophyllene than lowland milk. These differences could be most likely attributable to the utilization of highly diversified and extensively managed semi-natural grasslands. The higher forbs content of upland pastures could be related as well to the richness in C18:3n-3, CLA cis-9,trans-11, MUFA, and PUFA we observed in upland compared with lowland milk during the outdoor season. In contrast, grazing on lowland pastures rich in grasses gave a yellower milk that was richer in β-carotene. Out of the few compounds showing a significant effect of origin or its interaction, most of the milk constituents were unaffected by the origin at all. However, almost all milk constituents differed according to the forage system and the season, and the differences observed between seasons can be attributed to differences in the cow diet composition.

The objective of this work is to compare the ability of three spectroscopy techniques: molecular fluorescence, near-infrared (NIR), and mid-infrared with attenuated total reflectance (MIR-ATR) spectroscopy to predict the concentrations of 8 carotenoids, 6 vitamins and 22 fatty acids (FA) in cow’s milk. A dataset was built through the analysis of 242 frozen milk samples from different experiments. The milk compounds were analysed using reference methods and by NIR, MIR-ATR, and fluorescence to establish different predictive models. NIR spectroscopy allowed for better prediction of cis9-β-carotene, β-cryptoxanthin and the sum of carotenoids than the other techniques, with a coefficient of cross-validation in calibration (R²CV) > 0.60 and a coefficient of determination in validation (R²V) > 0.50. Their standard errors of prediction (SEP) were equal to 0.01, except for the sum of carotenoids (SEP = 0.15). However, MIR-ATR and fluorescence seem usable for the prediction of lutein and all-trans-β-carotene, respectively. These three spectroscopy methods did not allow us to predict (R²CV < 0.30) vitamin contents except, for vitamin A (the best R²CV = 0.65 with NIR and SEP = 0.15) and α-tocopherol (the best R²CV = 0.56 with MIR-ATR and SEP = 0.41), but all R²V were <0.30. NIR spectroscopy yielded the best prediction of the selected milk FA.

A previous study identified differences in rind aspects between Cantal-type cheeses manufactured from the same skimmed milk, supplemented with cream derived either from pasture-raised cows (P) or from cows fed with maize silage (M). Using an integrated analysis of multiomic data, the present study aimed at investigating potential correlations between cream origin and metagenomic, lipidomic and volatolomic profiles of these Cantal cheeses. Fungal and bacterial communities of cheese cores and rinds were characterized using DNA metabarcoding at different ripening times. Lipidome and volatolome were obtained from the previous study at the end of ripening. Rind microbial communities, especially fungal communities, were influenced by cream origin. Among bacteria, Brachybacterium were more abundant in P-derived cheeses than in M-derived cheeses after 90 and 150 days of ripening. Sporendonema casei, a yeast added as a ripening starter during Cantal manufacture, which contributes to rind typical aspect, had a lower relative abundance in P-derived cheeses after 150 days of ripening. Relative abundance of this fungus was highly negatively correlated with concentrations of C18 polyunsaturated fatty acids and to concentrations of particular volatile organic compounds, including 1-pentanol and 3-methyl-2-pentanol. Overall, these results evidenced original interactions between milk fat composition and the development of fungal communities in cheeses.

La marginalisation progressive de l’agriculture de montagne constatée jusque dans les années 1970 a pu être globalement enrayée grâce au dynamisme des acteurs montagnards et aux politiques de soutien mises en place par les pouvoirs publics. Les exemples de réussites locales comme celles des montagnes du Beaufortain ou de l'Aubrac ne doivent cependant pas occulter les fortes disparités qui perdurent au sein et entre les différents massifs montagneux, ni le nécessaire soutien des pouvoirs publics qui ont mis en place depuis 40 ans différentes formes de soutiens spécifiques, ou bénéficiant majoritairement à l’élevage de montagne. A l’heure actuelle, en France, 16% des exploitations et 14% des surfaces agricoles sont situées en zone de montagne. La superficie des exploitations de montagne diffère peu de celles de plaine mais leur potentiel économique est plus faible, en lien avec la forte proportion de surfaces fourragères qui nourrissent respectivement 17, 23 et 48% du cheptel national de vaches laitières, de vaches allaitantes et de brebis. L’analyse des évolutions structurelles et productives des exploitations de montagne révèle une dynamique plutôt positive : la SAU montagnarde s'est relativement bien maintenue par rapport aux risques encourus et le nombre d’exploitations et d’actifs agricoles a diminué moins vite qu’en plaine. A l’heure actuelle, malgré les soutiens publics, le revenu des éleveurs reste nettement plus faible en montagne qu’en plaine et les disparités se sont renforcées récemment. A l’avenir, le renforcement prévu des soutiens publics permettra de combler une partie de ce différentiel, mais la revalorisation des aides ne doit pas masquer que les perspectives de l’élevage de montagne sont liées avant tout aux dynamiques des acteurs locaux qui disposent d’atouts pour réduire les coûts de production et surtout pour valoriser mieux les richesses de leurs terroirs encore insuffisamment exploitées dans certaines zones ; la qualité des produits, de l’environnement, des paysages et de la culture.