Objective: Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin.Methods: Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real‐time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co‐cultured with sensory neurons).Results: Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non‐verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity.Conclusion: Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non‐verbal methods.

Acne-prone skin is associated with dysbiosis involving Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) and Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) causing increased seborrhea in sebaceous glands (SG) and inflammation. Human primary sebocytes were cultivated using 1.10⁶ UFC/mL C. acnes Type IA (facial acne, ATCC6919) and/or 1.10⁵ UFC/mL S. epidermidis (unknown origin, ATCC12228) for 48 h in our SEB4GLN-optimized media without antibiotics. Bacteria and sebocytes were enumerated and assessed to determine their viability. Lipid production was imaged and quantified via Nile Red staining. SG with hair follicles were microdissected from healthy skin and cultured using 1.10⁵ UFC/mL C. acnes Type 1A and/or 1.10⁴ UFC/mL S. epidermidis (wild-type facial skin strain) through prior fixation and immunostaining for MC5R, C. acnes and nuclei (DAPI) via Z-stack confocal microscopy bioimaging (Leica SP5X & FIJI software, Version 2.9.0). C. acnes growth was not impacted when co-cultivated with sebocytes (2D) or SG (3D) models. Phylotype IA stimulated sebocyte lipid production, which had no impact on viability. The S. epidermidis reference strain overproliferated, inducing sebocyte mortality. For 3D SG model, culture conditions were optimized using a wild-type facial skin strain at a lower concentration, 1:10 ratio to C. acnes, reduced contact time, sequential inoculation and rinsing step. Bioimaging revealed strong C. acnes labeling in the active areas of the pilosebaceous unit. S. epidermidis formed biofilm, which was distributed across the SG via non-specific fluorescence imaging. We developed an innovative model of a sebaceous gland that mimics acne-prone skin with lipid overproduction and virulent phylotype IA C. acnes inoculation.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterized by highly pruritic inflamed skin lesions and dry skin. AD affects up | POSTER

Dry skin is a common skin disorder among the general population. It is characterized clinically by rough, scaly, and often itchy skin that has lost its normal mechanical properties (especially a loss in elasticity). It is a sign of dysfunction of the epidermis, especially of the stratum corneum. This defective barrier function stimulates the production and the secretion of