1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives.

The interest in using colloidal dispersions of gelled lipid nanoparticles (GLN) for different fields of application has increased in recent years, notably in cosmetic, dermatology, and/or pharmaceutics due to their capacity to immobilize compounds with poor water solubility. The pharmaceutical field desires to achieve lipophilic drug formulations which are able to conserve their stability, although it is well-known that emulsions and solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) present a lack of stability over time, leading to system destabilization. Furthermore, stable colloidal dispersions of gelled oil particles do not affect the properties of the molecule to be delivered, and they result as an alternative for the previously appointed systems. This review is an attempt to present the reader with an overview of colloidal dispersions of GLN, their concept, formulation methods, as well as the techniques used for their characterization. Moreover, various application fields of organogel dispersions have been illustrated to demonstrate the potential application range of these recent materials.