Background: Retinoids, defined as synthetic or natural derivatives of vitamin A, have been extensively studied as anti‐aging molecules that are widely applied in cosmetics. However, due to their physicochemical property, retinoids are highly unstable and extremely sensitive to light, oxygen, and temperature. Moreover, topical application of retinoids often leads to cutaneous irritation. These instabilities and irritant properties of retinoids limit their application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.Aim: Our study aimed to provide a systematic review to summarize the mechanisms underlying the instability and irritant properties of retinoids, as well as recent developments in addressing these challenges.Methods: A comprehensive PubMed search was conducted using the following keywords: retinoids, chemical instability, skin irritation, retinoid derivatives, nano lipid‐based carriers, liposomes, penetration‐enhancer vesicles, ethosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, vitamins, soothing and hydrating agents, antioxidants and metal chelator and retinol combinations. Relevant researches published between 1968 and 2023 and studies related to these reports were reviewed.Results: The development of new retinoid derivatives, the utilization of new delivery systems like nano lipid‐based carriers and the combination with other compounds like vitamins, soothing agents, antioxidants and metal chelator have been explored to improve the stability, bioavailability, and toxicity of the retinoid family.Conclusions: Through advancements in formulation techniques, structure modification of retinoid derivatives and development of novel nano lipid‐based carriers, the chemical instability and skin irritation of retinoids has been mitigated, ensuring their efficacy and potency over extended periods.

Ultraviolet radiation can heighten tyrosinase activity, stimulate melanocyte production, impede the metabolism of numerous melanocytes, and result in the accumulation of plaques on the skin surface. α-Arbutin, a bioactive substance extracted from the arbutin plant, has been widely used for skin whitening. In this study, the whitening effect of α-arbutin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and alleviating the photoaging effect induced by UVB are investigated. The results indicate that α-arbutin can inhibit skin inflammation, and its effectiveness is positively correlated with concentration. Moreover, α-arbutin can reduce the skin epidermal thickness, decrease the number of inflammatory cells, and down-regulate the expression levels of IL-1β, IL-6 and TNF-α, which are inflammatory factors. It also promotes the expression of COL-1 collagen, thus playing an important role in anti-inflammatory action. Network pharmacology, metabolomics and transcriptomics further confirm that α-arbutin is related to the L-tyrosine metabolic pathway and may interfere with various signaling pathways related to melanin and other photoaging by regulating metabolic changes. Therefore, α-arbutin has a potential inhibitory effect on UVB-induced photoaging and possesses a whitening effect as a cosmetic compound.

Owing to its tyrosinase inhibitory activity, α-arbutin has been added to several skin care products as a skin-lightening agent. However, the protective effect of α-arbutin against ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced photoaging has not been well investigated. The present study was designed to investigate the photoprotective effect and mechanism of α-arbutin against UVA-induced photoaging. In vitro experiments, HaCaT cells were treated with UVA at a dose of 3 J/cm² to evaluate the anti-photoaging effect of α-arbutin. α-Arbutin was found to exhibit a strong antioxidant effect by increasing glutathione (GSH) level and inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS) production. Meanwhile, α-arbutin markedly improved the expression of sirtuin 3 (SIRT3) and peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ coactivator 1 α (PGC-1α) proteins, initiating downstream signaling to increase mitochondrial membrane potential and mediate mitochondrial biogenesis, and improve mitochondrial structure significantly. In vivo analysis, the mice with shaved back hair were irradiated with a cumulative UVA dose of 10 J/cm² and a cumulative ultraviolet B (UVB) dose of 0.63 J/cm². The animal experiments demonstrated that α-arbutin increased the expression of SIRT3 and PGC-1α proteins in the back skin of mice, thereby reducing UV-induced skin damage. In conclusion, α-arbutin protects HaCaT cells and mice from UVA damage by regulating SIRT3/PGC-1α signaling pathway.