Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a widely utilized process in various industrial applications, serving as a protective and hard coating. However, its presence in fields like fashion has only recently emerged, as electroplating processes had previously dominated this reality. The future looks toward the replacement of the most hazardous and toxic electrochemical processes, especially those involving Cr(VI) and cyanide galvanic baths, which have been restricted by the European Union. Unfortunately, a complete substitution with PVD coatings is not feasible. Currently, the combination of both techniques is employed to achieve new aesthetic features, including a broader color range and diverse textures, rendering de facto PVD of primary interest for the decorative field and the fashion industry. This review aims to outline the guidelines for decorative industries regarding PVD processes and emphasize the recent advancements, quality control procedures, and limitations.
Electroplating can induce nickel release even from 316L stainless steel, typically considered safe. In this work, the influence of different electroplating processes and surface treatments on nickel release was evaluated. The nickel release was tested according to the EN 1811 standard. The impact of surface roughness on nickel release was assessed by comparing polished and unpolished samples. Results indicate that internal stresses can worsen nickel release, while increasing the thickness of the precious metal layer is beneficial. To corroborate our hypothesis, it was verified that coatings obtained through physical vapor deposition (PVD), without removing the passivation layer of the steel, did not release nickel. For these reasons, we identified the main cause of nickel release as the combined effect of the removal of the passivation layer of stainless steel and the microporosity of the electroplating process.