Due to the stratum corneum barrier, resveratrol is difficult to be absorbed transdermally, limiting its anti-aging and skin-brightening effects. Furthermore, there is a lack of systematic studies on the efficacy of resveratrol in human skin, especially in three-dimensional skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we encapsulated resveratrol into nanoliposomes using the high-pressure homogenization method to develop an efficient transdermal drug delivery system, and systematically evaluated its anti-aging and skin-brightening efficacy via cell line models, a three-dimensional skin model and human skin. The resveratrol nanoliposomes effectively improved the transdermal penetration and retention of resveratrol and enhanced cellular uptake. In addition, compared to free resveratrol, resveratrol nanoliposomes remarkably enhanced the skin-care effects by promoting the antioxidant capacity and collagen synthesis, inhibiting the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosine activity and melanin synthesis. Notably, human clinical trials proved the anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening effectiveness of resveratrol nanoliposomes. Three levels of systematic studies indicated that resveratrol nanoliposomes could be a promising transdermal drug delivery system to enhance the anti-aging and skin-brightening effects of resveratrol.

A total of 13 batches of collagen peptide samples were extracted, isolated, and purified from chicken sternal cartilage under various process parameters. The fingerprint profiles of 13 batches of collagen peptides were established by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). In addition, the amino acid profiles and molecular weight distributions of collagen peptides were investigated. The in vitro antioxidant activities of the peptide samples were measured using the 2,2′-Azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) assay, the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, the ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay and an assay of the oxidative damage induced by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) in the degenerative cartilage cells from the knee joint of rat C518 (C518 cell line). The anti-inflammatory activities of the peptide samples were assessed by measuring the inflammatory responses induced by lipopolysaccharides (LPS) in C518 cells. Subsequently, the spectrum-effect relationships between HPLC fingerprints and the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of collagen peptides were investigated using grey relational analysis (GRA). Fifteen common peaks were obtained from the HPLC fingerprints of collagen peptides. Each collagen peptide sample had a characteristic set of amino acid types and contents. All of the hydrolysates of the collagen peptides were primarily composed of fractions II (500–1000 Da) and III (1000–3000 Da). Collagen peptides exhibited good scavenging activity on ABTS radical, DPPH radical, and ferric-reducing antioxidant power. Collagen peptides were also effective against H₂O₂-induced cellular oxidative damage in C518 cells. The antioxidant activity of collagen peptides was due to the low molecular weight and the presence of antioxidant and hydrophobic amino acid residues within its sequence. Collagen peptides significantly inhibited the secretion of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, TNF-α, and PGE2 in C518 cells. The anti-inflammatory activity of collagen peptides may include increased synthesis of the key components of extracellular matrix (ECM) and inhibited apoptosis of chondrocytes. The GRA results showed that peaks 2, 3, and 8 were the main components contributing to the antioxidant activity of the collagen peptides, whereas peaks 11 and 14 were the main components contributing to the anti-inflammatory activity of the collagen peptides. The components of peaks 8 and 14 were identified as GPRGPPGPVGP and VAIQAVLSLYASGR by UPLC-MS/MS. Those identified collagen peptides offer a potential therapeutic strategy for the treatment of osteoarthritis (OA) due to their antioxidative stress and due to them disturbing the catabolism and anabolism processes in arthrodial cartilage.

Sensitive skin is defined as skin with low tolerance and high reactivity. Natural products, such as paeoniflorin and madecassoside, have unique skin care functionality. However, because they are hampered by the skin barrier, paeoniflorin and madecassoside have difficulty penetrating the stratum corneum, resulting in weakened skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, there is a lack of detailed studies on the efficacy of paeonol and madecassic in human skin, especially in 3D skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we developed nanoemulsions (PM-NEs) loaded with paeonol and madecassoside to improve their delivery efficiency and promote sensitive skin repair and anti-inflammation effects. Furthermore, systematic evaluations of the efficacy in cell line models, 3D skin models, and clinical trials were conducted. The PM-NEs effectively improved the efficacy of paeonol and madecassoside glucoside transdermal penetration and retention and enhanced cellular uptake. Cellular assays and 3D epidermal models showed that the PM-NEs significantly promoted the secretion of filamentous protein, aquaporin 3, Claudin-1, and hyaluronic acid, and considerably inhibited the secretion of interleukin 1α, interleukin 6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin E₂ compared to free components. Notably, clinical trial data showed that the PM-NEs significantly reduced transepidermal water loss, a* values, erythropoietin, the amount of non-inflammatory acne, and the amount of inflammatory acne in the facial skin. Three levels of systematic studies suggest that co-delivery of paeoniflorin and madecassoside via nanoemulsions is a promising strategy to improve topical delivery efficiency and anti-inflammatory repair efficacy in sensitive skin.

Palmitoylethanolamide (PEA) exhibits multiple skincare functions such as anti-nociceptive and anti-inflammatory effects. However, its topical application is limited due to its difficulty in bypassing the stratum corneum barrier, relatively low bioavailability, and low stability. Herein, elastic nano-liposomes (ENLs) with excellent deformability and elasticity were utilized as a novel drug delivery system to encapsulate PEA to overcome the abovementioned issues and enhance the biological effects on the skin. ENL was prepared with phosphatidylcholine, cholesterol, and cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide with a molar ratio mimicking skin epidermal lipids, and PEA was loaded. The PEA-loaded ENL (PEA-ENL) demonstrated efficient transdermal delivery and enhanced skin retention, with negligible cytotoxicity toward HaCaT cells and no allergic reaction in the human skin patch test. Notably, PEA-ENL treatment increased cell migration and induced significant regulation in the expression of genes associated with anti-nociceptive, anti-inflammatory, and skin barrier repair. The mechanism of the anti-nociceptive and anti-inflammatory effects of PEA was further investigated and explained by molecular docking site analysis. This novel PEA-ENL, with efficient transdermal delivery efficiency and multiple skincare functionalities, is promising for topical application.

Cyclocarya paliurus (CP) contains triterpene acids that can improve glucose and lipid metabolism disorders. However, controlling the composition and content of these active ingredients in CP extracts is challenging. The main active components in CP triterpene acids, including ursolic acid (UA), oleanolic acid (OA), and betulinic acid (BA), exhibit antihyperglycemic and antihypertensive effects. The response surface methodology was utilized to design and optimize the ratio of UA, OA, and BA based on the inhibition rate of pancrelipase and α-amylase. The proportional mixture of UA, OA, and BA resulted in the formation of a complex known as Cyclocarya paliurus triterpenoid acid (TAC). Se-methylselenocysteine (MSC), a compound with various physiological functions such as antioxidant properties and tumor inhibition, has been used in combination with TAC to form the TAC/MSC complex. Our data demonstrate that TAC/MSC improved palmitic acid (PA)-induced insulin resistance in HepG2 cells through activating the phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K) /protein kinase B (AKT)/glycogen synthase kinase 3 beta (GSK3β) pathway. Moreover, TAC/MSC effectively improved hyperglycemia, glucose intolerance, insulin resistance, and lipid metabolism disorder in mice with type 2 diabetes mellitus (T2DM), attenuated hepatic steatosis, and reduced oxidative stress to alleviate T2DM characteristics.

Objectives: Sialic acid (SA), a naturally occurring compound abundantly found in birds’ nests, holds immense promise for skincare applications owing to its remarkable biological properties. However, its low bioavailability, poor stability, and limited skin permeability have constrained its widespread application. Methods: To overcome these challenges, SA was encapsulated within nanoliposomes (NLPs) by the high-pressure homogenization technique to develop an advanced and efficient transdermal drug delivery system. The skincare capabilities of this novel system were comprehensively evaluated across multiple experimental platforms, including in vitro cell assays, 3D skin models, in vivo zebrafish studies, and clinical human trials. Results: The SA-loaded NLPs (SA-NLPs) substantially improved the transdermal penetration and retention of SA, facilitating enhanced cellular uptake and cell proliferation. Compared to free SA, SA-NLPs demonstrated a 246.98% increase in skin retention and 1.8-fold greater cellular uptake in HDF cells. Moreover, SA-NLPs protected cells from oxidative stress-induced damage, stimulated collagen synthesis, and effectively suppressed the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosinase activity, and melanin production. Additionally, zebrafish-based assays provided in vivo evidence of the skincare efficacy of SA-NLPs. Notably, clinical evaluations demonstrated that a 56-day application of the SA-NLPs-containing cream resulted in a 4.20% increase in L*, 7.87% decrease in b*, 8.45% decrease in TEWL, and 4.01% reduction in wrinkle length, indicating its superior brightening, barrier-repair, and anti-aging effects. Conclusions: This multi-level, systematic investigation strongly suggests that SA-NLPs represent a highly promising transdermal delivery strategy, capable of significantly enhancing the anti-aging, barrier-repair, and skin-brightening properties of SA, thus opening new avenues for its application in the fields of dermatology and cosmeceuticals.