The assessment of percutaneous permeation of molecules is a key step in the evaluation of dermal or transdermal delivery systems. If the drugs are intended for delivery to humans, the most appropriate setting in which to do the assessment is the in vivo human. However, this may not be possible for ethical, practical, or economic reasons, particularly in the early phases of development. It is thus necessary to find alternative methods using accessible and reproducible surrogates for in vivo human skin. A range of models has been developed, including ex vivo human skin, usually obtained from cadavers or plastic surgery patients, ex vivo animal skin, and artificial or reconstructed skin models. Increasingly, largely driven by regulatory authorities and industry, there is a focus on developing standardized techniques and protocols. With this comes the need to demonstrate that the surrogate models produce results that correlate with those from in vivo human studies and that they can be used to show bioequivalence of different topical products. This review discusses the alternative skin models that have been developed as surrogates for normal and diseased skin and examines the concepts of using model systems for in vitro–in vivo correlation and the demonstration of bioequivalence.

The presence of esterase enzymes in human skin and their role in drug metabolism has been reported, but their distribution in the various skin layers and the relative contributions of those layers to metabolism is poorly defined. To gain further insight into esterase distribution, we performed in vitro skin permeation of a commercial 28.3% methyl salicylate (MeSA) cream (Metsal™) in Franz diffusion cells, using a range of human skin membranes, all from the same donor. The membranes were viable epidermis separated by a dispase II enzymatic method, heat separated epidermis, dermatomed skin, and dermis separated by a dispase II enzymatic method. Methyl salicylate and its metabolite, salicylic acid (SA), were measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. Alpha naphthyl acetate and Hematoxylin and Eosin staining provided qualitative estimations of esterase distribution in these membranes. The permeation of methyl salicylate after 24 h was similar across all membranes. Salicylic acid formation and permeation were found to be similar in dermatomed skin and dermis, suggesting dermal esterase activity. These results were supported by the staining studies, which showed strong esterase activity in the dermal–epidermal junction region of the dermis. In contrast with high staining of esterase activity in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis, minimal stained and functional esterase activity was found in heat-separated and dispase II-prepared epidermal membranes. The results are consistent with dispase II digesting hemidesmosomes, penetrating the epidermis, and affecting epidermal esterases but not those in the dermis. Accordingly, whilst the resulting dispase II-generated dermal membranes may be used for in vitro permeation tests (IVPT) involving esterase-based metabolic studies, the dispase II-generated epidermal membranes are not suitable for this purpose.