The objectives of this trial were to study the growth and development of hair follicles and cashmere traits in cashmere goats and to provide a theoretical basis for the regulation of secondary hair follicle development and the scientific breeding selection of cashmere goats. Twelve single-fetal female kids were selected as research objects. A long-term tracking plan was created to regularly determine their growth performance, cashmere performance, and hair follicle traits. The results showed no significant difference in live weight after the first and second combing. The cashmere yield and unit yield of the first combing were significantly higher than those of the second combing (p < 0.05). Sections of hair follicles showed that the primary hair follicles are almost fully developed by 1 month, and the secondary hair follicles are fully developed by 5–6 months after birth. The primary hair follicle density (PFD) and secondary hair follicle density (SFD) were highest at birth and decreased within 1 month; and SFD was stable at 5–6 months of age. The change of MSFD took a maximum time of 2 to 3 months. The S:P increase reached its peak at 6 months. BMP4 expression increased with time. FGF2, FGF21 and BMP7 were higher at 3 months old than at the other two-time points. In conclusion, this study determined the total development time of primary and secondary hair follicles from morphology and speculated that FGF2, FGF21, and BMP7 may play a regulatory role in developing secondary hair follicles. Therefore, the period from birth to 6 months of age was the best time to regulate secondary hair follicle development in cashmere goats kids. The traits of the hair follicle and cashmere at 6 months of age could be breeding selection indicators for cashmere goats.

Exogenous melatonin (MT) has been used to promote the growth of secondary hair follicles and improve cashmere fiber quality, but the specific cellular-level mechanisms involved are unclear. This study was carried out to investigate the effect of MT on the development of secondary hair follicles and on cashmere fiber quality in cashmere goats. The results showed that MT improved secondary follicle numbers and function as well as enhanced cashmere fiber quality and yield. The MT-treated goat groups had high secondary-to-primary ratios (S:P) for hair follicles, greater in the elderly group (p < 0.05). Antioxidant capacities of secondary hair follicles improved fiber quality and yield in comparison with control groups (p < 0.05/0.01). Levels of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS, RNS) and malondialdehyde (MDA) were lowered (p < 0.05/0.01) by MT. There was significant upregulation of antioxidant genes (for SOD-3; GPX-1; NFE2L2) and the protein of nuclear factor (Nrf2), and downregulation of the Keap1 protein. There were significant differences in the expression of genes for secretory senescence-associated phenotype (SASP) cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, MMP-9, MMP-27, CCL-21, CXCL-12, CXCL-14, TIMP-1,2,3) plus their protein of key transcription factors, nuclear factor kappa B (NFκB) and activator protein-1 (AP-1), in comparison with the controls. We concluded that MT could enhance antioxidant capacity and reduce ROS and RNS levels of secondary hair follicles through the Keap1-Nrf2 pathway in adult cashmere goats. Furthermore, MT reduced the expression of the SASP cytokines genes by inhibiting the protein of NFκB and AP-1 in the secondary hair follicles in older cashmere goats, thus delaying skin aging, improving follicle survival, and increasing the number of secondary hair follicles. Collectively, these effects of exogenous MT enhanced the quality and yield of cashmere fibers, especially at 5–7 years old.