Due to the high demand for products that can help treat various skin conditions, the interest in plant extracts, which are a valuable source of phytochemicals, is constantly growing. In this work, the properties of extracts and ferments from Cornus mas L. and their potential use in cosmetic products were compared. For this purpose, their composition, antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity against skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed in vitro. In addition, the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase was compared, which enabled the assessment of their potential to inhibit skin aging. Microbiological analyses carried out on different bacterial strains were made in order to compare their antibacterial properties. The conducted analyses showed that both dogwood extract and ferment have antioxidant and anti-aging properties. In addition, they can have a positive effect on the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and inhibit the proliferation of various pathogenic bacteria, which indicates their great potential as ingredients in skin care preparations. The stronger activity of the ferment compared to the extract indicates the legitimacy of carrying out the fermentation process of plant raw materials using kombucha in order to obtain valuable products for the cosmetics industry.

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water–ethanol (EE) and water–glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells—fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

In the cosmetics industry, the extract from Raphanus sativus L. is fermented using specific starter cultures. These cosmetic ingredients act as preservatives and skin conditioners. Kombucha is traditionally made by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeast and is used in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of radish leaf and root extract fermented with the SCOBY. Both unfermented water extracts and extracts after 7, 14, and 21 days of fermentation were evaluated. The analysis of secondary plant metabolites by UPLC-MS showed higher values for ferments than for extracts. A similar relationship was noted when examining the antioxidant properties using DPPH and ABTS radicals and the protective effect against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress in fibroblasts and keratinocytes using the fluorogenic dye H₂DCFDA. The results also showed no cytotoxicity to skin cells using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability of the samples to inhibit IL-1β and COX-2 activity in LPS-treated fibroblasts was also demonstrated using ELISA assays. The influence of extracts and ferments on bacterial strains involved in inflammatory processes of skin diseases was also assessed. Additionally, application tests were carried out, which showed a positive effect of extracts and ferments on TEWL and skin hydration using a TEWAmeter and corneometer probe. The results obtained depended on the concentration used and the fermentation time.

This article attempts to comprehensively assess plants from the Apiaceae family, such as Apium graveolens, Daucus carota or Petroselinum crispum, as raw plant materials with potential uses in cosmetic products with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. The work compares the phytochemical profiles and activity of extracts and ferments from the roots of these plants obtained during fermentation using kombucha. The antioxidant properties of the tested extracts, the effect on the intracellular level of free radicals and their cytotoxicity towards skin cells were compared. Their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties were also assessed. The ABTS and DPPH tests indicated the highest antioxidant potential of the carrot ferments, achieving a 55.75% and 74.6% reduction of these radicals, respectively. The resazurin and Neutral Red assays indicated that in most cases, sample concentrations not exceeding 2.5% did not cause a cytotoxic effect, and in the case of a 20-day parsley ferment, they could increase viability by over 40%. The disk diffusion method indicated growth inhibition zones of over 20 mm for some bacteria. The minimum inhibitory concentrations for seven different bacterial strains ranged from 200 to 400 µg/mL. Anti-inflammatory properties were determined using the ELISA method, assessing the level of interleukins 1β, 6 and 10. The obtained results indicate a higher amount of phytochemicals, a lack of cytotoxic effect at lower concentrations of the tested samples and significantly stronger antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of the ferments compared to the extracts. This effect depends on the concentration and fermentation time used.

This study examined the cosmetic potential of extracts from the peel and pulp of fermented pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo L.). Fermentation was carried out using Lactobacillus strains (L. plantarum, L. rhamnosus, L. fermentum, and L. paracasei) and kombucha (SCOBY). Fermentation was carried out for 3 days (for lactic acid bacteria) and 10 and 20 days (for kombucha). The obtained products were analyzed by LC-MS for phytochemical composition and assessed for their antioxidant capacity (DPPH and ABTS assays) and ROS reduction in keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HDF). The obtained ferments demonstrated cytoprotective effects (using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red assays). Both kombucha ferments and certain strains of Lactobacillus ferments demonstrated anti-aging effects (by inhibiting collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase) and anti-inflammatory effects (by significantly affecting IL-6 and IL-1β cytokine levels). A moisturizing skin toner containing the extracts and ferments was developed and tested for cytoprotective effects on HaCaT keratinocytes. The results confirm that fermented pumpkin peel and pulp extracts can be used as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients with the potential to provide antioxidant protection, anti-aging, and skin regeneration.

The influence of UV radiation on skin discoloration, skin aging and the development of skin cancer is widely known. As a part of this study, the effect of extracts from three varieties of Cornus mas L. (C. mas L.) on skin cells exposed to UVA radiation was assessed. The analyses were performed on both normal and cancer skin cells. For this purpose, the potential photoprotective effects of the obtained extracts (aqueous and ethanolic) was assessed by performing two cytotoxicity tests (Alamar blue and Neutral red). Additionally, the antioxidant capacity was compared using three different assays. The 2′,7′-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (H₂DCFDA) probe was used to evaluate the intracellular level of free radicals in cells exposed to the simultaneous action of UVA radiation and dogwood extracts. Additionally, the ability to inhibit excessive pigmentation was determined by assessing the inhibition of melanin formation and tyrosinase activity. The obtained results confirmed the strong antioxidant properties of dogwood extracts and their photoprotective effect on normal skin cells. The ability to inhibit the viability of melanoma cells was also observed. Additionally, a reduction in oxidative stress in skin cells exposed to UVA radiation and a strong inhibition of melanin formation and tyrosinase activity have been demonstrated. This study shows that dogwood extract could be a valuable cosmetic raw material that can play both a photoprotective and antihyperpigmentation role in cosmetic preparations.