The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnological ingredients. The present study reports the development of a multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOPs) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential oil, using a simplex-centroid experimental design. The formulations were evaluated physicochemically, pharmacotechnically and by DPPH assay. The optimized formulation was selected through the Response Surface Method, and the evaluation of its efficiency in lip hydration was carried out using the bioimpedance method and sensory analysis. The formulations showed pH compatibility with lips and remained stable after a centrifuge test and thermal stress. Spreadability varied between 415.3 and 1217.1 mm², moisture retention was above 95% and antioxidant capacity was around 50% for all formulations. The optimized formulation, containing 0.4% LEV and 0.8% SOF, maintained the lip hydration already shown by the participants; 85% of them reported improvement in this aspect. For the first time, LEV and SOP were incorporated in lip moisturizers, which is an environmentally friendly product with marketing potential. Furthermore, the use of the Skin Analyzer Digital equipment, a low-cost and non-invasive technique, to evaluate the effectiveness of lip products is innovative; this methodology may help in the development of future cosmetology studies.

The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnology ingredients. The present study reports the development of multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOP) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential oil , using simplex-centroid experimental design. The formulations were evaluated physicochemically, pharmacotechnically and by DPPH assay. The optimized formulation was selected through Response Surface Method and the evaluation of its efficiency in lip hydration was carried out using bioimpedance method and sensory analysis. The formulations showed pH compatible with the lip region and remained stable after centrifuge test and thermal stress in preliminary stability. Spreadability varied between 415.3 and 1217.1 mm2, moisture retention was above 95%, and antioxidant capacity was around 50% for all formulations. The optimized formulation, containing 0.4% LEV and 0.8% SOF, helped to maintain the lip hydration already shown by the participants; 85% of them reported improvement in this aspect. The incorporation of these actives is innovative and helps in the development of future works, through the use of a new non-invasive and low-cost technique, not previously described in other studies, in association with relevant sensory analyzes in the field of cosmetology.