Unripe banana fruit of Musa acuminata (Musa AAA; Hom Khieo) and Musa sapientum L. (Musa ABB; Namwa) growing in Chiang Rai (Thailand) were used for extraction. The yield of the starches was 16.88% for Hom Khieo (HK) and 22.73% for Namwa (NW) based on unripe peeled banana fruit. The amylose contents of HK and NW were 24.99% and 26.23%, respectively. The morphology of starch granules was oval shape with elongated forms for large granules and round shape for small granules. The HK and NW showed B-type crystalline structure and the crystallinities were 23.54% and 26.83%, respectively. The peak temperature of gelatinization was around 77 °C and the enthalpy change (ΔH) was 3.05 and 7.76 J/g, respectively. The HK and NW banana starches showed 1.27 ± 0.12 g/g and 1.53 ± 0.12 g/g water absorption capacity, and 1.22 ± 0.11 g/g and 1.16 ± 0.12 g/g oil absorption capacity, respectively. The swelling power of the banana starches was 17.23 ± 0.94 g/g and 15.90 ± 0.15 g/g, respectively, and the percentage of solubility in water showed 26.43 ± 2.50 g/g and 20.54 ± 0.94 g/g, respectively. The banana starches showed very poor flow character. The HK and NW starches have the potential to be used in powder base preparations with no effect on the sensory texture of the product at 15% w/w maximum.

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of −56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants’ skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Purpose: To develop Thai pandan (Pandanus amaryllifolius) as an antioxidant ingredient for topical emulsion.Methods: Dried leaf and root of P. amaryllifolius (Pandanceae) were extracted separately by maceration with either ethanol or propylene glycol. Antioxidant capacity was investigated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picry hydrazyl radical (DPPH) and linoleic acid peroxidation method. The total phenoliccontent was measured by Folin-Ciocalteau assay. Oil-in-water topical emulsions containing the individual extracts were prepared and tested for stability.Results: Propylene glycol extract exhibited higher DPPH activity and total phenolic content than the ethanol extract while the DPPH activity of the leaf extract was higher than that of the root. The 50 % inhibition concentration (IC50) value of leaf and root extracts was 0.810 and 2.340 mg/ml, respectively. Although the antioxidant activity of the crude extracts was lower than that of standard vitamin C and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), the ethanol/propylene glycol solution extract (ethanol was reduced to50 % extract volume) showed higher inhibition (90.1 %) of linoleic acid peroxidation than 200 ppm of vitamin C (57.1 %) and BHT (71.1 %). An oil-in-water emulsion containing 3 % of the ethanol and propylene glycol extract showed creamy texture with medium viscosity and demonstrated good stability under accelerated aging test.Conclusion: The results indicate a potential for the development of P. amaryllifolius leaf extract as an antioxidant ingredient in topically applied formulations.Keywords: Pandanus amaryllifolius, Extraction, Antioxidant, Emulsion, Stability.