The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers’ declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.

The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers' declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.

Shea butter (SB) is a raw material fat obtained from Vitellaria paradoxa C.F. Gaertn kernels. We investigated the direct and indirect protective effects of 10 traditional and industrial SBs and their polar extracts on cell-free systems using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays as well as on singlet oxygen (¹O₂) produced by Rose Bengal (RB) photosensitization. Their effects against RB-induced HaCaT cell phototoxicity were also explored. A spectrophotometric assay and HPLC were performed to quantify and identify phenolic content, which was between 14.16 and 82.99 ppm pyrogallol equivalent. These variations could be due to the SB origin and extraction process. These polar fractions exhibited moderate DPPH and strong ABTS radical-scavenging activity. By applying the UV–visible technique, we demonstrated that SBs and their phenolic compounds behave as ¹O₂ quenchers in a dose-dependent manner. Moreover, using a UVR-like model after the irradiation of RB, both polar extracts and crude SB exhibited photoprotective effects, highlighting the indirect protective action. In acellular and cellular models, SB and its polar extracts can act as a free radical scavenger against reactive oxygen species and ¹O₂ quenchers. Due to the maximum absorbance of SB at 280 nm and the antioxidant effect of ¹O₂ quenching, SB polar extracts exhibit photoprotective properties.