This study aimed to develop nanoemulsions for enhancing chemical stability and dermal delivery of Cordyceps militaris extracts. C. militaris was extracted by maceration and infusion. The extracts were investigated for cordycepin, phenolic, and flavonoid content. The antioxidant activity was investigated by in vitro spectrophotometric methods. The irritation profile was investigated by hen’s egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Nanoemulsions were developed using high-pressure homogenizer. C. militaris extract was incorporated into the nanoemulsion and investigated for safety, release profile, permeation, and skin retention. The results demonstrated that water extract (CW) contained the significantly highest content of cordycepin, phenolics, and flavonoids, which were responsible for antioxidant activity. CW was the most potent antioxidant. CW possessed comparable 2,2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging activity and lipid peroxidation inhibition to l-ascorbic acid (96.9 ± 3.1%) and alpha-tocopherol (87.2 ± 1.0%). Consequently, ten mg/mL of CW was incorporated into nanoemulsions composing of sugar squalene, Tween^® 85, and deionized water. Nanoemulsion, which had the smallest internal droplet size (157.1 ± 2.6 nm), enhanced the stability of CW, had no cytotoxicity effect and no skin irritation, released the most CW (0.9 ± 0.0% w/w after 24 h), and delivered the highest CW into the skin layer (33.5 ± 0.7% w/w). Therefore, nanoemulsion was suggested for enhancing the stability and dermal delivery of CW.

This study aimed to develop chitosan alginate nanoparticles (CANPs) for enhanced stability for dermal delivery of protein hydrolysate from Acheta domesticus (PH). CANPs, developed using ionotropic pre-gelation followed by the polyelectrolyte complex technique, were characterized for particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential. After the incorporation of PH into CANPs, a comprehensive assessment included encapsulation efficiency, loading capacity, morphology, chemical analyses, physical and chemical stability, irritation potential, release profile, skin permeation, and skin retention. The most optimal CANPs, comprising 0.6 mg/mL sodium alginate, 1.8 mg/mL calcium chloride, and 0.1 mg/mL chitosan, exhibited the smallest particle size (309 ± 0 nm), the narrowest PDI (0.39 ± 0.01), and pronounced negative zeta potential (−26.0 ± 0.9 mV), along with an encapsulation efficiency of 56 ± 2%, loading capacity of 2.4 ± 0.1%, release of 40 ± 2% after 48 h, and the highest skin retention of 12 ± 1%. The CANPs induced no irritation and effectively enhanced the stability of PH from 44 ± 5% of PH remaining in a solution to 74 ± 4% after three-month storage. Therefore, the findings revealed the considerable potential of CANPs in improving PH stability and skin delivery, with promising applications in cosmetics and related fields.

The study aimed to optimize hydrolysis conditions and isolate and identify bioactive peptides with anti-skin aging effects from Acheta domesticus (house cricket). A. domesticus proteins underwent hydrolysis using Alcalase^® and optimized conditions using response surface methodology through a face-centered central composite design. Variable controls (enzyme–substrate concentration (E/S), time, and temperature) were assessed for their impact on activities against collagenase, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH^●), and degree of hydrolysis of protein hydrolysate (PH). PH was also investigated for composition, anti-skin aging, and anti-inflammatory effects. Amino acid sequences with potent anti-skin aging activity were isolated and identified using ultrafiltration, gel filtration chromatography, and liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry, employing de novo sequencing. Optimal conditions for producing PH with maximum anti-skin aging activity were an E/S concentration of 2.1% (w/w), 227 min, and 61.5 °C. Glutamic acid was a predominant amino acid and PH exhibited a molecular weight below 15 kDa. Additionally, PH displayed significant activities against collagenase, hyaluronidase, DPPH^●, lipid peroxidation, and NF-κB-mediated inflammation (p < 0.05). Three novel anti-skin aging peptides were identified—Ala-Val-Thr-Lys-Ala-Asp-Pro-Tyr-Thr-Asp-Gln, Thr-Val-Met-Glu-Leu-Asn-Asp-Leu-Val-Lys-Ala-Phe, and Val-Pro-Leu-Leu-Glu-Pro-Trp—exhibiting the most potent collagenase and DPPH^● inhibition. Therefore, this study proposed that PH, produced with Alcalase^® under optimal conditions, emerges as a promising substance with potent anti-skin aging activity for the cosmeceutical industry.

Acheta domesticus is an edible insect, rich in nutritional value and considered a sustainable protein source. This study aimed to investigate the potential application of A. domesticus extracts for anti-skin-aging purposes. The extracts were prepared by maceration at ambient temperature with 95% ethanol or hexane and maceration in gentle heat (45 °C) with 95% v/v ethanol or DI water. The extracts were examined for total protein, phenolic, and flavonoid contents. Protein molecular weight distribution was analyzed. The safety of the extracts was investigated in terms of irritation and cytotoxicity. Biological activities relevant to the inhibition of skin aging were evaluated, including increasing transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-β1) expression and inhibitory activities on collagenase and hyaluronidase. The aqueous extract from maceration in gentle heat had the highest total protein content (63 ± 1% w/w), total phenolic content (0.48 ± 0.03 mg GAE/g extract), TGF-β1 stimulating activities (33 ± 2 pg/mL), and collagenase inhibition (with a half maximal inhibitory concentration of 26 ± 1 µg/mL) among various extracts investigated. It caused no irritation to the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane and showed no cytotoxicity to human dermal fibroblasts and peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Therefore, aqueous A. domesticus extract is proposed as an innovative natural anti-skin-aging ingredient.