Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD⁺ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the “Kligman standards” in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide’s therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient’s evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

Polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRNs) and polynucleotides (PNs) are similar DNA-derived biopolymers that have garnered significant scientific attention since the 1990s for their potential applications in wound healing and skin rejuvenation. These biopolymers exhibit a broad molecular weight (MW) range, typically spanning from 50 to 1500 kDa. However, recent studies have expanded this range to encompass fragments as small as 1 kDa and as large as 10,000 kDa. Clinically, PDRN/PN formulations, commercially available in various galenic forms (gels, creams, serums, masks, and injectables), have demonstrated promising effects in significantly promoting skin regeneration, reducing inflammation, improving skin texture, preventing scar formation, and mitigating wrinkles. Importantly, despite their widespread use in cosmetology and aesthetic dermatology, the interchangeable use of the terms “PDRN” and “PN” in the scientific literature (to describe polymers of varying lengths) has led to considerable confusion within the medical and scientific communities. To specifically address this PDRN/PN ambiguity, this narrative review proposes a standardized structure-based nomenclature for these DNA-derived polymers, the “Marques Polynucleotide Cutoff”, set at 1500 kDa. Thus, we propose that the term “PDRN” should be exclusively reserved for small- and medium-chain polymers (MW < 1500 kDa), while the term “PN” should specifically be used to denote longer-chain polymers (MW ≥ 1500 kDa). In a broader perspective, this classification is based on the distinct physicochemical properties and therapeutic effects of these DNA fragments of various MWs, which are comprehensively discussed in the present review.

Recent advancements in aesthetic medicine offer innovative cosmetic solutions to enhance patient skin quality and appearance. Advanced treatment options enable practitioners to effectively address skin aging signs, pigmentation imbalance, and loss of elasticity in ambulatory and home-based care regimens. Exosomes (nanoscale cell-derived vesicles) transport a variety of biomolecules and are pivotal in physiological intercellular communication. Importantly, exosomes have recently emerged as key endogenous players in tissular regeneration. More broadly (from an active ingredient purity standpoint), exosomes, stem cell secretomes, and cell culture-conditioned media have been clinically proven to exert multifaceted beneficial topical effects (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, skin rejuvenation). Therefore, human, animal, and plant-derived exosomes or other refined sub-cellular biological fractions are gaining substantial interest within the aesthetic and cosmetic industries. Notably, such approaches are thought to be among the most promising novel contenders for advanced, biologically inspired skin prejuvenation and rejuvenation care. The present narrative review summarizes the latest clinically oriented research on exosomes and cell culture-conditioned media, highlighting their mechanisms of action in various topical applications. Furthermore, it explores the innovation landscape and currently commercially available products on the global cosmetic market and discusses the potential future applications of advanced, biologically inspired ingredients in the medical aesthetic industry.

Skin aging is a complex and multifactorial process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The periorbital area of the face is particularly susceptible to premature aging signs due to its delicate skin structure, and is a major concern for many individuals. While hyaluronic acid (HA)-based dermal filler products are commonly used for periorbital rejuvenation, novel approaches to effectively locally address the visible signs of aging are available. This study aimed to investigate Innovyal Regenerative Action (IRA), an injectable polynucleotide–HA (PN-HA) regenerative complex designed for periocular prejuvenation. Firstly, PN-HA was compared to other commercially available HA-based dermbooster products (Profhilo^®, Suisselle Cellbooster^® Glow, and NCTF^® 135 HA) in terms of rheological properties, in vitro antioxidant capacity, and total collagen production stimulation in human fibroblasts. Secondly, the clinical effects of the IRA PN-HA complex were evaluated in two case reports (monotherapy for periorbital prejuvenation). It was shown that the PN-HA complex outperformed its comparators in terms of relative rheological behavior (biophysical attributes normalized to polymer contents), intrinsic antioxidant activity (CUPRAC, FRAP, and ORAC assays), as well as total collagen level induction (72-h in vitro dermal fibroblast induction model). Generally, the results of this study provided mechanistic and preliminary clinical insights into the potential benefits of the IRA PN-HA complex for periocular cutaneous treatment. Overall, it was underscored that combining the structural support and regenerative properties of PN with the hydrating and volumizing effects of HA bares tangible potential for multifactorial skin quality enhancement and for periocular prejuvenation in particular.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogels are commonly used for facial dermal filling and for alternative medical aesthetic purposes. High diversity exists in commercial formulations, notably for the optimization of finished product stability, functionality, and performance. Polyvalent ingredients such as calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) or vitamin B3 (niacinamide) are notably used as bio-stimulants to improve skin quality attributes at the administration site. The aim of the present study was to perform multi-parametric characterization of two novel cross-linked dermal filler formulas (HAR-1 “Instant Refine” and HAR-3 “Maxi Lift”) for elucidation of the various functional impacts of vitamin B3 incorporation. Therefore, the HAR products were firstly comparatively characterized in terms of in vitro rheology, cohesivity, injectability, and resistance to chemical or enzymatic degradation (exposition to H₂O₂, AAPH, hyaluronidases, or xanthine oxidase). Then, the HAR products were assessed for cytocompatibility and in vitro bio-stimulation attributes in a primary dermal fibroblast model. The results showed enhanced resilience of the cohesive HAR hydrogels as compared to JUVÉDERM^® VOLBELLA^® and VOLUMA^® reference products in a controlled degradation assay panel. Furthermore, significant induction of total collagen synthesis in primary dermal fibroblast cultures was recorded for HAR-1 and HAR-3, denoting intrinsic bio-stimulatory effects comparable or superior to those of the Radiesse^® and Sculptra^™ reference products. Original results of high translational relevance were generated herein using robust and orthogonal experimental methodologies (hydrogel degradation, functional benchmarking) and study designs. Overall, the reported results confirmed the dual functionalization role of vitamin B3 in cross-linked HA dermal fillers, with a significant enhancement of hydrogel system stability attributes and the deployment of potent bio-stimulatory capacities.

Facial aging is a complex process manifesting as skin hyperpigmentation, textural irregularities, and a diminished elasticity, hydration, and evenness of tone. The escalating demand for minimally invasive aesthetic interventions has driven the development of advanced hydrogel-based injectable formulations. This clinical study assessed the safety and efficacy of Hydragel A1, an injectable hydrogel containing hyaluronic acid (HA), niacinamide, and tranexamic acid (TXA), designed to simultaneously address multiple facets of facial skin aging. A cohort of 49 female participants underwent a series of objective and subjective assessments, including the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), instrumental measurements (Antera 3D, Chromameter, Cutometer, Dermascan, Corneometer), and standardized photographic documentation at baseline (Day 0) and 14, 28, and 70 days post-treatment. The results demonstrated statistically significant improvements in skin hydration, texture, elasticity, and pigmentation following Hydragel A1 administration. Notably, no serious adverse events or significant injection site reactions were observed, confirming the favorable safety profile of the investigated device. Collectively, these findings underscore the potential of a combined HA, niacinamide, and TXA injectable formulation to provide a comprehensive approach to facial skin rejuvenation, effectively targeting multiple aging-related mechanisms.