In this study the influence of fabric weave (plain, twill, and panama) and weft type (flax and hemp yarns) on selected mechanical and comfort properties of six fabrics was analyzed. The results showed that tear and abrasion properties were most affected by the weave. The tensile properties of the linen fabrics were not significantly different when weft hemp yarns were used instead of flax. Fabrics with the same weave seemed to be equally resilient to abrasion regardless of the type of weft. By contrast, the hemp weft yarns favorized the physical and comfort properties of the investigated fabrics. For the same weave, the hemp–linen fabrics were slightly lighter and exhibited lower bulk density, significantly larger air permeability, and improved moisture management properties. Although the results of maximum thermal flux (Qmax) suggested a cooler sensation of the linen fabrics with panama and twill, the hemp–linen fabric with a plain weave seemed to be the optimal choice when a cool sensation was desired. Higher thermal conductivity values also suggested slightly better heat transfer properties of the hemp–linen fabrics, and these were significantly influenced by the weave type. The results clearly indicated the advantages of using hemp for improving physical and specific comfort properties of linen fabrics.

Industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) is gaining renewed interest as a sustainable source of natural fibres, particularly in regions like Belgium, where well-established flax processing infrastructure exists. However, region-specific data on varietal performance for long fibre production remain limited, hindering large scale adoption by both farmers and processors. This study aimed to assess the agronomic performance of early- and late-flowering hemp varieties under temperate maritime conditions through a three-year field trial at two sites in Flanders (Belgium). The evaluation focused on key parameters including emergence rate, plant morphology, long fibre yield and quality. Results showed that successful crop establishment is critical, as poor emergence influenced stem diameter (increasing with decreasing emergence) and leads to reduced long fibre yields by up to 50% between tested sites. Significant yield differences between trial years were present at both sites, with the biomass yield ranging from 10.7 to 14.5 and from 7.8 to 9.6 t ha⁻¹ for Bottelare and Beitem, respectively. Under favourable conditions, long fibre yields reached up to 2.4 t ha⁻¹ for late-flowering and 2.1 t ha⁻¹ for early- and mid-late-flowering varieties. In Western Europe, early to mid-late flowering varieties are generally favoured. Among these, the mid-late flowering variety Bialobrzeskie demonstrated strong yield potential. Overall, fibre quality across varieties was comparable to that of flax.