In this study, cocoons and degummed silk samples of Bombyx mori and twenty Saturniidae species of the genera Actias, Attacus, Argema, Antheraea, Caligula, Callosamia, Cricula, Epiphora, Hyalophora, Loepa, Samia and Saturnia are studied to gain an insight into their morphology, chemical composition and physical structure. For this purpose, silk samples are characterized by optical microscopy and FTIR spectroscopy in attenuated total reflection mode (ATR-FTIR spectroscopy). Furthermore, degummed silk samples are analyzed for their amino acid (AA) composition by GC-FID. In the course of method development, various degumming methods are tested using alkalis, citric acid, enzymes and detergents. A mixture of 0.1% sodium carbonate and 2.5% ethylenediamine proves to be an effective agent for degumming Saturniidae and B. mori cocoons. After hydrolysis of the fibroin filaments with 6 N hydrochloric acid and derivatization with propyl chloroformate, fifteen AAs are identified and qualified. This method shows a satisfactory overall analytical performance with an average recovery rate of 95% at the medium concentration level. The chemical composition of the different silks was considered comparatively. Within a genus, the analyses usually show a high degree of similarity in AA composition and the resulting structural indices, whereas differences are found between genera.

Organic dyes of animal and plant origin have often been used by our ancestors to create textiles with polychromic ornamental patterns, and dyestuff analyses reveal how ancient cultures used these natural colorants. Mass spectrometry can characterize ancient colorants from these textiles, but its combination with separation techniques such as liquid chromatography requires the destruction of the pattern to extract organic dyes from the fabrics. In this study we applied mass spectrometry imaging (MS imaging) on colorful patterned textiles to show the spatial distribution of indigo-type and anthraquinone-type dyes. We evaluated different sample preparation techniques for matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight (MALDI-TOF)-MS imaging, e.g. the production of imprints in TLC (thin layer chromatography) aluminum sheets and the embedding of the material in Technovit7100 to produce thin sections. Our protocol enabled the detection of indigo-type dyes directly on a historic textile of more than 2,000 years old embedded in Technovit7100. This is the first-time application of MALDI-TOF-MS imaging to map different organic dyestuffs on archeological remains.

Dyestuff analyses were performed directly from the surface of different bluish and reddish colored historic textile samples by flowprobe™-electrospray ionization-high-resolution mass spectrometry (flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS). This real-time in situ microextraction method allowed rapid, reliable and minimal-destructive analysis without extra and time-consuming sample preparation and required only a minimum amount of valuable archaeological material. As demonstrated for indigo-type and anthraquinone dyes this technique is useful for the analysis of various types of textiles regardless of their fiber matrix, appearance or handicraft and is also suitable for investigating fragile archeological fibers. Thus, flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS is a promising analytical tool for characterizing organic colorants in objects of archaeological interest.