Crocin is a unique water-soluble carotenoid found in crocus and gardenia flowers. Crocin has been shown to have a variety of pharmacological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-cancer, memory improvement, antidepressant, anti-ischemia, blood pressure lowering and aphrodisiac, gene protection and detoxification activities. Due to their amphiphilicity, crocin molecules form concentration-dependent self-associates (micelles) in a water solution. In the present study, using various NMR techniques (T2 relaxation and selective gradient NOESY), we have demonstrated that crocin forms mixed micelles with water-soluble drug delivery system glycyrrhizin and linoleic acid molecules. Note, that the spin–spin T2 relaxation time and NOESY spectroscopy are very sensitive to intermolecular interactions and molecular diffusion mobility. The second purpose of this work was the elucidation of the interaction of crocin with a model lipid membrane using NMR techniques and a molecular dynamics simulation and its effects on lipid oxidation. It was shown that the crocin molecule is located near the surface of the lipid bilayer and effectively protects lipids from oxidation by peroxyl radicals. The role of glycyrrhizin and vitamin C in metal-induced lipid oxidation was also elucidated. The results of this study may be useful for expanding the field of application of crocin in medicine and in the food industry.
Background: Carotenoids and retinol are well known for their potent antioxidant and biological properties in pharmaceuticals, foods, and cosmetics. However, their poor photostability presents a significant challenge that cannot be effectively addressed through simple formulation strategies such as encapsulation. Although photostabilizers are commonly employed to enhance product photostability, there remains a lack of highly water‐soluble and legitimate stabilizers suitable for commercial cosmetic applications. Aims: To develop a novel aqueous‐phase photostabilizer simultaneously boosting carotenoid and retinol shelf‐life in cosmetics and meeting global safety standards. Underlying mechanism and application are investigated. Methods: Micellar supramolecular complex crocin–Na 2 GA was prepared by mechanochemistry; thermal stability, storage stability, and photo‐oxidative degradation were tested. Then, photoprotection of carotenoids and retinoids by crocin–Na 2 GA in aqua solution, cream‐based formulations, and on an artificial skin model was tested. Finally, cyclic voltammetry was applied for mechanism research. Results: Experiments demonstrated that the light‐induced degradation of astaxanthin, β‐carotene, and retinol in aqueous solutions, cream formulations, and on skin was significantly reduced upon the addition of crocin–Na 2 GA. These findings indicated that crocin–Na 2 GA possessed remarkable photoprotective properties. Mechanistic studies further revealed that within the stable nano micellar system of crocin–Na 2 GA, crocin was readily photoactivated and scavenged photoinduced radicals through a self‐sacrificial mechanism, thereby preventing the photodegradation of active constituents during the storage and application phases of creams. Conclusions: Collectively, these results highlight the potential of crocin–Na 2 GA as a highly efficient, safe, and cost‐effective photostabilizer, making it a promising candidate for incorporation into cosmetic formulations.