Melanogenesis is the process of melanin synthesis through keratinocytes-melanocytes interaction, which is triggered by the damaging effect of ultraviolet-B (UVB) rays. It is known that melanogenesis influences diverse cellular responses, including cell survival and apoptosis, via complex mechanisms of feedback and crosstalk. Therefore, an attempt to suppress melanin production by modulating the melanogenesis pathway may induce perturbations in the apoptotic balance of the cells in response to UVB irradiation, which results in various skin diseases such as melasma, vitiligo and skin cancer. To identify such appropriate target strategies for the reduction of UVB-induced melanin synthesis, we reconstructed the melanogenesis signaling network and developed a Boolean network model. Mathematical simulations of the melanogenesis network model revealed that the inhibition of beta-catenin in the melanocytes effectively reduce melanin production while having minimal influence on the apoptotic balance of the cells. Exposing cells to a beta-catenin inhibitor decreased pigmentation but did not significantly change the B-cell Chronic lymphocytic leukemia/lymphoma 2 expression, a potent regulator of apoptotic balance. Thus, our systems analysis suggests that the inhibition of beta-catenin may be the most appropriate target strategy for the reduction of UVB-induced skin pigmentation.

It is well known that Panax ginseng (PG) has various pharmacological effects such as anti-aging and anti-inflammation. In a previous study, the authors identified that PG extract induced hair growth by means of a mechanism similar to that of minoxidil. In the present study, the inhibitory effect of PG extract on Dickkopf-1 (DKK-1)-induced catagen-like changes in hair follicles (HFs) was investigated in addition to the underlying mechanism of action. The effects of PG extract on cell proliferation, anti-apoptotic effect, and hair growth were observed using cultured outer root sheath (ORS) keratinocytes and human HFs with or without DKK-1 treatment. The PG extract significantly stimulated proliferation and inhibited apoptosis, respectively, in ORS keratinocytes. PG extract treatment affected the expression of apoptosis-related genes Bcl-2 and Bax. DKK-1 inhibited hair growth, and PG extract dramatically reversed the effect of DKK-1 on ex vivo human hair organ culture. PG extract antagonizes DKK-1-induced catagen-like changes, in part, through the regulation of apoptosis-related gene expression in HFs. These findings suggested that PG extract may reduce hair loss despite the presence of DKK-1, a strong catagen inducer via apoptosis.

The development of melanogenic inhibitors is important for the prevention of hyperpigmentation, and, recently, consideration has been given to natural materials or traditionally used ingredients such as Chinese medicine. The aim of this study is the evaluation of a new anti-melanogenic candidate, kadsuralignan F, from the natural plant Kadsura coccinea, as well as the determination of mechanisms of melanogenesis inhibition at a molecular level. Kadsuralignan F significantly reduced melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner in a murine melanocyte cell line and human skin equivalents. There was no direct inhibition on mushroom tyrosinase or cell-extract tyrosinase activity, and mRNA expression of tyrosinase and other melanogenic genes such as tyrosinase-related protein-1 (trp-1) or trp-2 were not affected by kadsuralignan F. Interestingly, the protein level of tyrosinase was dramatically downregulated with kadsuralignan F treatment. We found that a decrease of tyrosinase protein by kadsuralignan F was fully recovered by MG132, a proteasome inhibitor, but not by chloroquine, a lysosome inhibitor. In this study, we found that kadsuralignan F, a lignan from an extract of Kadsura coccinea, has an inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis through tyrosinase degradation. These findings suggest that kadsuralignan F can be used as an active ingredient for hyperpigmentation treatment.

In Guk Park, Sun Hee Jin, Seungchan An, Min Won Ki, Won Seok Park, Hyoung-June Kim, Yongjoo Na and Minsoo Noh. Biomolecules & Therapeutics 2024;32:635-9. https://doi.org/10.4062/biomolther.2023.226