The skin hydration level is a key factor that influences the physical and mechanical properties of the skin. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, is responsible for the skin’s barrier function. In this study, we investigated the role of a unique composition of Viola yedoensis extract for its ability to activate CD44, a cell-surface receptor of hyaluronic acid, and aquaporin-3, a water-transporting protein, in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). An ELISA assay evaluating the protein expression levels of CD44, aquaporin-3 (AQP3), filaggrin, and keratin-10 revealed that V. yedoensis extract upregulated the levels of CD44 and AQP3 by 15% and 78%, respectively. Additionally, V. yedoensis extract demonstrated a comparative effect on water vapor flux in TEWL and lipid perturbation in DSC versus the reference, glycerin. In light of this new biological efficacy, a detailed phytochemical characterization was undertaken using an integrated LC-HRMS/MS-based metabolomics approach, which provided further insights on the chemistry of V. yedoensis. This led to the identification of 29 secondary metabolites, 14 of which are reported here for the first time, including esculetin, aesculin, apigenin and kaempferol C-glycosides, megastigmane glycosides, roseoside, platanionoside B, and an eriojaposide B isomer, along with the rare, calenduloside F and esculetin diglucoside, which are reported for the first time from the genus, Viola. Notably, two active components identified in the V. yedoensis extract, namely, aesculin and schaftoside, showed an upregulation of the protein expression of CD44 in HaCaT cells by 123% and 193% within 24 h of treatment, respectively, while aesculin increased AQP3 levels by 46%. Aesculin and schaftoside also significantly upregulated the expression of K-10 levels by 299% and 116%, which was considerably higher than sodium hyaluronate, the positive control. The rationale used to characterize the new structures is outlined along with the related biosynthetic pathways envisioned to generate roseoside and Eriojaposide B. These findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how V. yedoensis extract, along with the biomarkers aesculin and schaftoside, restores the skin barrier and skin hydration benefits.

Ultrafine particles (UFPs) containing polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) benzo[a]pyrene (BaP), are linked to pollution-induced health concerns, with skin being highly susceptible to contamination. Understanding the metabolic fate of these environmental pollutants in the skin is crucial. Moreover, traditional in vitro models often lack metabolic competency, while animal testing raises ethical concerns. This study introduces a novel approach combining stable isotope labeling (SIL) and liquid chromatography–high-resolution mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS) to investigate BaP metabolism. The physiologically relevant 3D reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model was used. RHE models were exposed to BaP and deuterium-labeled BaP (BaP-d12). These analyses, followed by data analysis incorporating stable isotope filtering, revealed the presence of five distinct BaP phase I metabolites, including mono-hydroxylated, dihydroxylated, and quinone derivatives. This study demonstrates the power of coupling stable isotope labeling with LC-HRMS for the comprehensive characterization of BaP metabolic pathways in human skin. The identification of specific metabolites enhances our understanding of BaP detoxification mechanisms and their potential adverse effects. This analytical approach holds promise for investigating the metabolic fate of various other environmental pollutants.

Le profilage métabolomique global de matrices biologiques dans de larges séries d'échantillon est un enjeu majeur. Dans ce contexte, notre travail vise à développer des approches LC-HRMS et outils bioinformatiques pour les analyses métabolomique et lipidomique de larges cohortes. Dans un premier temps, nous avons développé puis évalué la pertinence de 4 méthodes LC-HRMS dans l'annotation du métabolome/lipidome sérique humain. Ainsi, une base de données spectrales a été implémentée à l'aide de spectres MS, MS/MS et les temps de rétention de composés de référence afin d'assurer l'annotation de jeux de données. La combinaison de méthodes RP, HILIC et PFPP-HRMS a permis l'identification de 266 métabolites et 706 espèces lipidiques sériques répartis sur 20 et 24 classes chimiques respectivement dont 27% d'espèces isomères. Ces outils ont été appliqués, dans un second temps, à la stratification de 78 patients diabétiques. Outre le syndrome métabolique marqué (perturbation du métabolisme énergétique), nos analyses ont montré l'impact délétère de facteurs physiologiques confondants -âge et IMC-. Nous en avons évalué l'influence sur une cohorte de 227 salariés du CEA. Les empreintes lipidomiques sont robustes, néanmoins l'impact de l'IMC est marqué pour les lipides neutres. L'effet du genre démontre un catabolisme masculin important. L'effet de l'âge se manifeste par des activités enzymatiques altérées. Ces études combinent une analyse globale métabolomique et lipidomique des mêmes échantillons humains. Elles visent à construire une base de données relationnelle incluant données spectrales et biologiques servant à la caractérisation de biomarqueurs dans le cas d'études cliniques.