A free surface may be deformed by fluid motions; such deformation may lead to surface roughness, breakup, or disintegration. This paper describes the wide range of free-surface deformations that occur when there is turbulence at the surface, and focuses on turbulence in the denser, liquid, medium. This turbulence may be generated at the surface as in breaking water waves, or may reach the surface from other sources such as bed boundary layers or submerged jets. The discussion is structured by consideration of the stabilizing influences of gravity and surface tension against the disrupting effect of the turbulent kinetic energy. This leads to a two-parameter description of the surface behaviour which gives a framework for further experimental and theoretical studies. Much of the discussion is necessarily heuristic, and is often limited by a lack of appropriate experimental observations. It is intended that such experiments be stimulated, to test the value or otherwise of our two-parameter description.

The impact of waves upon a vertical, rigid wall during sloshing is analyzed with specific focus on the modes that lead to the generation of a flip-through [M. J. Cooker and D. H. Peregrine, “A model for breaking wave impact pressures,” in Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ASCE, Delft, 1990), Vol. 2, pp. 1473–1486]. Experimental data, based on a time-resolved particle image velocimetry technique and on a novel free-surface tracking method [M. Miozzi, “Particle image velocimetry using feature tracking and Delaunay tessellation,” in Proceedings of the 12th International Symposium on Applications of Laser Techniques to Fluid Mechanics (2004)], are used to characterize the details of the flip-through dynamics while wave loads are computed by integrating the experimental pressure distributions. Three different flip-through modes are observed and studied in dependence on the amount and modes of air trapping. No air entrapment characterizes a “mode (a) flip-through,” engulfment of a single, well-formed air bubble is typical of a “mode (b)” event, while the generation of a fine-scale air-water mixing occurs for a “mode (c)” event. Upward accelerations of the flip-through jet exceeding $1500\mathrm{g}$ have been measured and the generation/collapse process of a small air cavity is described in conjunction with the available pressure time histories. Predictions of the vertical pressure distributions made with the pressure-impulse model of Cooker and Peregrine [M. J. Cooker and D. H. Peregrine, “Pressure-impulse theory for liquid impact problems,” J. Fluid Mech. 297, 193 (1995)] show good agreement with the experimental data.

This paper, which is largely the fruit of an invited talk on the topic at the latest International Conference on Coastal Engineering, describes the state of the art of modelling by means of Boussinesq-type models (BTMs). Motivations for using BTMs as well as their fundamentals are illustrated, with special attention to the interplay between the physics to be described, the chosen model equations and the numerics in use. The perspective of the analysis is that of a physicist/engineer rather than of an applied mathematician. The chronological progress of the currently available BTMs from the pioneering models of the late 1960s is given. The main applications of BTMs are illustrated, with reference to specific models and methods. The evolution in time of the numerical methods used to solve BTMs (e.g. finite differences, finite elements, finite volumes) is described, with specific focus on finite volumes. Finally, an overview of the most important BTMs currently available is presented, as well as some indications on improvements required and fields of applications that call for attention.

The scaling of the scour depth of equilibrium at the base of a solid cylinder immersed within an erodible granular bed and impinged by a turbulent shear flow is investigated here, for the first time, by means of the phenomenological theory of turbulence. The proposed theory allows the derivation of a predictive formula that (i) includes all the relevant non-dimensional parameters controlling the process, and (ii) contrary to commonly employed empirical formulae, is free from scale issues. Theoretical predictions agree very well with experimental data, shed light on unresolved issues on the physics of the problem, and clarify the effects of various dimensionless parameters controlling the scouring process.

Strong turbulence at a water–air free surface can lead to splashing and a disconnected surface as in a breaking wave. Averaging to obtain boundary conditions for such flows first requires equations of motion for the two-phase region. These are derived using an integral method, then averaged conservation equations for mass and momentum are obtained along with an equation for the turbulent kinetic energy in which extra work terms appear. These extra terms include both the mean pressure and the mean rate of strain and have similarities to those for a compressible fluid. Boundary conditions appropriate for use with averaged equations in the body of the water are obtained by integrating across the two-phase surface layer.A number of ‘new’ terms arise for which closure expressions must be found for practical use. Our knowledge of the properties of strong turbulence at a free surface is insufficient to make such closures. However, preliminary discussions are given for two simplified cases in order to stimulate further experimental and theoretical studies.Much of the turbulence in a spilling breaker originates from its foot where turbulent water meets undisturbed water. A discussion of averaging at the foot of a breaker gives parameters that may serve to measure the ‘strength’ of a breaker.