The level of environmental hypobaric hypoxia that affects climbers at the summit of Mount Everest (8848 m [29,029 ft]) is close to the limit of tolerance by humans. We performed direct field measurements of arterial blood gases in climbers breathing ambient air on Mount Everest. We obtained samples of arterial blood from 10 climbers during their ascent to and descent from the summit of Mount Everest. The partial pressures of arterial oxygen (PaO₂) and carbon dioxide (PaCO₂), pH, and hemoglobin and lactate concentrations were measured. The arterial oxygen saturation (SaO₂), bicarbonate concentration, base excess, and alveolar–arterial oxygen difference were calculated. PaO₂ fell with increasing altitude, whereas SaO₂ was relatively stable. The hemoglobin concentration increased such that the oxygen content of arterial blood was maintained at or above sea-level values until the climbers reached an elevation of 7100 m (23,294 ft). In four samples taken at 8400 m (27,559 ft) — at which altitude the barometric pressure was 272 mm Hg (36.3 kPa) — the mean PaO₂ in subjects breathing ambient air was 24.6 mm Hg (3.28 kPa), with a range of 19.1 to 29.5 mm Hg (2.55 to 3.93 kPa). The mean PaCO₂ was 13.3 mm Hg (1.77 kPa), with a range of 10.3 to 15.7 mm Hg (1.37 to 2.09 kPa). At 8400 m, the mean arterial oxygen content was 26% lower than it was at 7100 m (145.8 ml per liter as compared with 197.1 ml per liter). The mean calculated alveolar–arterial oxygen difference was 5.4 mm Hg (0.72 kPa). The elevated alveolar–arterial oxygen difference that is seen in subjects who are in conditions of extreme hypoxia may represent a degree of subclinical high-altitude pulmonary edema or a functional limitation in pulmonary diffusion.

Transcranial Doppler is a widely used noninvasive technique for assessing cerebral artery blood flow. All previous high altitude studies assessing cerebral blood flow (CBF) in the field that have used Doppler to measure arterial blood velocity have assumed vessel diameter to not alter. Here, we report two studies that demonstrate this is not the case. First, we report the highest recorded study of CBF (7,950 m on Everest) and demonstrate that above 5,300 m, middle cerebral artery (MCA) diameter increases ( n = 24 at 5,300 m, 14 at 6,400 m, and 5 at 7,950 m). Mean MCA diameter at sea level was 5.30 mm, at 5,300 m was 5.23 mm, at 6,400 m was 6.66 mm, and at 7,950 m was 9.34 mm ( P<0.001 for change between 5,300 and 7,950 m). The dilatation at 7,950 m reversed with oxygen. Second, we confirm this dilatation by demonstrating the same effect (and correlating it with ultrasound) during hypoxia (FiO₂ = 12% for 3 hours) in a 3-T magnetic resonance imaging study at sea level ( n = 7). From these results, we conclude that it cannot be assumed that cerebral artery diameter is constant, especially during alterations of inspired oxygen partial pressure, and that transcranial 2D ultrasound is a technique that can be used at the bedside or in the remote setting to assess MCA caliber.

The surgical patient population is increasingly elderly and comorbid and poses challenges to perioperative physicians. Accurate preoperative risk stratification is important to direct perioperative care. Reduced aerobic fitness is associated with increased postoperative morbidity and mortality. Cardiopulmonary exercise testing is an integrated and dynamic test that gives an objective measure of aerobic fitness or functional capacity and identifies the cause of exercise intolerance. Cardiopulmonary exercise testing provides an individualized estimate of patient risk that can be used to predict postoperative morbidity and mortality. This technology can therefore be used to inform collaborative decision-making and patient consent, to triage the patient to an appropriate perioperative care environment, to diagnose unexpected comorbidity, to optimize medical comorbidities preoperatively, and to direct individualized preoperative exercise programs. Functional capacity, evaluated as the anaerobic threshold and peak oxygen uptake (V.o2peak) predicts postoperative morbidity and mortality in the majority of surgical cohort studies. The ventilatory equivalents for carbon dioxide (an index of gas exchange efficiency), is predictive of surgical outcome in some cohorts. Prospective cohort studies are needed to improve the precision of risk estimates for different patient groups and to clarify the best combination of variables to predict outcome. Early data suggest that preoperative exercise training improves fitness, reduces the debilitating effects of neoadjuvant chemotherapy, and may improve clinical outcomes. Further research is required to identify the most effective type of training and the minimum duration required for a positive effect.