Silk has been widely used not only in the textile field but also in non-textile applications, which is composed of inner fibrous protein, named fibroin, and outer global protein, named sericin. Due to big differences, such as appearance, solubility, amino acid composition and amount of reactive groups, silk fibroin and sericin usually need to be separated before further process. The residual sericin may influence the molecular weight, structure, morphology and properties of silk fibroin, so that degumming of silk is important and necessary, not only in textile field but also in non-textile applications. Traditional textile degumming processes, including soap, alkali or both, could bring such problems as environmental damage, heavy use of water and energy, and damage to silk fibroin. Therefore, this review aims to present a systematic work on environmentally friendly and green degumming processes of raw silk, including art of green degumming process, quantitative and qualitative evaluation, influence of degumming on molecular weight, structure, morphology and properties of silk. It is anticipated that rational selection and design of environmentally friendly and green degumming process is quite important and meaningful, not only for textile application but also for non-textile application.

In recent years, new concepts in textile dyeing technology have been investigated which aim to decrease the use of chemicals and the emission of water. In this work, dyeing of cotton textiles with reactive dyes has been investigated in a silicone non-aqueous dyeing system. Compared with conventional aqueous dyeing, almost 100% of reactive dyes can be adsorbed on cotton textiles without using any salts in non-aqueous dyeing systems, and the fixation of dye is also higher (80%~90% for non-aqueous dyeing vs. 40%~50% for traditional dyeing). The pseudo-second-order kinetic model can best describe the adsorption and equilibrium of reactive dyes in the non-aqueous dyeing systems as well as in the traditional water dyeing system. In the non-aqueous dyeing systems, the adsorption equilibrium of reactive dyes can be reached quickly. Particularly in the siloxane non-aqueous dyeing system, the adsorption equilibrium time of reactive dye is only 5–10 min at 25 °C, whereas more time is needed at 60 °C in the water dyeing system. The surface tension of non-aqueous media influences the adsorption rate of dye. The lower the surface tension, the faster the adsorption rate of reactive dye, and the higher the final uptake of dye. As a result, non-aqueous dyeing technology provides an innovative approach to increase dye uptake under a low dyeing temperature, in addition to making large water savings.

Disperse dyeing for polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber in different non-aqueous solvent dyeing systems have been extensively studied over the past decades. In the present work, disperse dyeing for PET was investigated in a silicone solvent dyeing system. The influence of accelerant on the fiber swelling, uptake of dye, K/S value of dyed fiber, and dye solubility in the silicone solvent were systematically investigated. Compared with no accelerant, the final uptake of the disperse dye (C. I. Disperse Blue 367) could increase to 81% with 20% accelerant in the silicone solvent dyeing system, and the K/S value of dyed fiber was also higher (3.3 for no accelerant vs. 13.2 for accelerant). The influence of accelerant on the performance of disperse dyeing was also studied. Firstly, the solubility of the disperse dye in the silicone solvent can be decreased by the accelerant. Moreover, the solubility of the disperse dye is inversely proportional to the K/S value and the uptake of the dye. In addition, although the silicone solvent can diffuse to the inner fiber and has a partial swelling in the PET fiber, the swelling of PET can be improved by the accelerant. Furthermore, the swelling of fiber can reach equilibrium when the amount of accelerant was 15% (the weight of fiber). Therefore, this eco-friendly dyeing technology has considerable potential for application to a broad array of chemical fibers.

The main goal of this article is to study the diffusion mechanism of aqueous solutions and the swelling of cellulosic fibers in the silicone non-aqueous dyeing system via fluorescent labeling. Due to non-polar media only adsorbing on the surface of fiber, cellulosic fiber could not swell as a result of the non-polar media. However, because water molecules can diffuse into the non-crystalline region of the fiber, cellulosic fiber could swell by water which was dispersed or emulsified in a non-aqueous dyeing system. To study the diffusion mechanism of an aqueous solution in the siloxane non-aqueous dyeing system, siloxane non-aqueous media was first diffused to the cellulosic fiber because of its lower surface tension. The resulting aqueous solution took more time to diffuse the surface of the cellulosic fiber, because water molecules must penetrate the siloxane non-aqueous media film. Compared with the fluorescent intensity of the fiber surface, the siloxane film could be re-transferred to the dye bath under the emulsification of the surfactant and the mechanical force. Therefore, a longer diffusion time of the aqueous solution ensured the dyeing feasibility for cellulosic fiber in the non-aqueous dyeing system.