Rapid urbanization and complex topography complicate Urban Heat Island (UHI) spatio-temporal dynamics. Traditional models and coarse-resolution imagery often fail to capture fine-scale, spatially non-stationary seasonal driving mechanisms. This study investigates the multi-dimensional drivers of surface thermal dynamics in Kunming, a typical low-latitude plateau city, using seasonal median LST composite (2018–2025). Integrating eXtreme Gradient Boosting (XGBoost) with eXplainable Artificial Intelligence (XAI) models decoupled the nonlinear impacts of these drivers. Results reveal a seasonal thermal dichotomy: Summer exhibits the most intense UHI effect with extreme peak temperatures, while Spring presents an anomaly where natural and vegetated Local Climate Zones (LCZs) show pronounced warming. SHapley Additive exPlanations (SHAP) analysis identified a seasonal rotation: anthropogenic and structural factors dominate Summer and Autumn warming, whereas natural and topographic regulators govern Spring and Winter. GeoShapley deconstruction demonstrated strong spatial non-stationarity. Building-density warming is amplified in poorly ventilated urban cores, and fragmented vegetation’s cooling is offset by anthropogenic heat during peak summer. This study provides new insights into the seasonal drivers of urban thermal environments in plateau cities.