The safety and stability of synthetic UV-filters and the procedures for evaluating the photoprotective capability of commercial sunscreens are under continuous review. The influence of pH and temperature stressors on the stability of certain Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated at high purity levels was examined. MAAs were highly stable at room temperature during 24 h at pH 4.5–8.5. At 50 °C, MAAs showed instability at pH 10.5 while at 85 °C, progressive disappearances were observed for MAAs through the studied pH range. In alkaline conditions, their degradation was much faster. Mycosporine-serinol and porphyra-334 (+shinorine) were the most stable MAAs under the conditions tested. They were included in four cosmetically stable topical sunscreens, of which the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) were calculated. The formulation containing these MAAs showed similar SPF and UVB-BEPFs values as those of the reference sunscreen, composed of synthetic UV absorbing filters in similar percentages, while UVA-BEPFs values were slightly lower. Current in vitro data strongly suggest that MAAs, as natural and safe UV-absorbing and antioxidant compounds, have high potential for protection against the diverse harmful effects of solar UV radiation. In addition, novel complementary in vitro tests for evaluation of commercial sunscreens efficacy are proposed.
Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have gained considerable attention as highly active photoprotective candidates for human sunscreens. However, more studies are necessary to evaluate the extraction efficiencies of these metabolites in cosmetic compatible solvents, as well as, their subsequent HPLC analysis. In the present study, MAA extraction using distilled water and 20% aqueous methanol in four Rhodophyta was investigated. Different re-dissolution solvents and a C8 and C18 columns were tested for the HPLC analysis. Porphyra-334, shinorine, palythine, palythine-serine, asterina-330, and palythinol were identified by HPLC/ESI-MS. The separation of these MAAs were improved employing the C8-column, and using methanol as re-dissolution solvent. Regarding total MAAs concentrations, no differences between the two solvents were found. The highest MAA amounts were observed injecting them directly in the HPLC. According to these results, distilled water could be an excellent extraction solvent for MAAs. Nevertheless, the re-dissolution in pure methanol after dryness would be the best option for the qualitative analysis of the most common MAAs in these red algae. Our results entail important implications regarding the use of red macroalgae as promising candidates as environment-friendly sources of natural sunscreens.